Brakes squeal!!!!

I have a '99' Intrepid. I had the rotors turned last year and they rusted and then"peeled" a layer off. Not sure I understand why, I have never had this happen before. Anyway, I replaced rotors on the front and installed new "anti-squeal" ceramic pads. Well, they squeal at low speeds and when making a right turn, the squeal is louder from the left front. I wanted the ceramic pads to cut down on the dark colored dust that accumulates on the wheels. Anyone have this problem that was able to make the ceramic pads work without squeal?

Thanks, Dan

Reply to
Dan
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I used a set of ceramics on my '99 Concorde (same car mechanically) without any squeal at all.

Not sure what you mean by a layer of rust peeling off - unless you're talking about areas (like the rotor vents) that don't get any wear - yeah - they will get a heavy scale rust that will flake off - that is normal. I take it you don't mean that the wear (pad contact) surface actually had metal peel off - that would be highly unusual.

Now, about the squeal - go to this thread on

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down to the 4th post - that's mine (I post there as "Peva"). You will see a description of what the problem could be including a photo of the part (rotor shield) to look for that could be the problem. Several people on this newsgroup and on that site have found that that was indeed the problem on their LH car when they had a persistent brake squeal that they couldn't pin down. It isn't always the problem - it might very well be the pads. It's even money that your problem is the rotor shield rubbing the rotor and not the pads - you probably inadvertently bent one when you worked on the brakes the last time. Post back with what you find out.

BTW - what pads are you using? I have a reason for asking.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

Not unusual at all here in the "rust belt" Major cause of brake problems is pitting/flaking od rotor friction surfaces. Particularly bad with "iron metallic" brake pads. Not as bad with brass, and almost unheard of with carbon. When we had asbestos pads, the problem was virtually unheard of.

Not sure about the last few years, but it used to be if the brakes did not squeal, chances were pretty good you were driving something other than a Chrysler!!

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Yep, actual pad contact area. When NAPA's shop turned the rotors, they used a pattern I have never seen before. I just assumed it was the newest way to turn them, so not much thought. Now, I am wondering if the real tight cross hatch pattern was too close and/or deep and rust was able to build up and eventually peel off a "layer" of steel. I first thought the rotors had warpped, as that is what it felt like when braking.

Sure will. Never thought about the sheild, just assumed the new pads.

Bought Pads and rotors at AutoZone. They were that only shop here who had them in stock. The pads are Morse Ceramic.

Reply to
Dan

Autozone sells "nice" Chinese rotors. Next time mail order a set of Brembo's from Tire Rack. If it's not the shield, check that they but lube or anti noise compound on the back of the pads and on the pins and other contact areas.

Richard.

Reply to
Richard

Good point about checking for anti-noise goop. I always just use silicone grease for that.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

Dan, I noticed the same problem about 2 years or so ago on my 99 Intrepid. (search on Intrepid brake subway squeal) I would hear squeaking noises, especially after wet days. Eventually I traced the problem to the heat shield on the inside of the front rotors. Apparently they are very close to the rotor when installed at the factory. Over time the metal rusts a little, it picks up small debris, etc. until the rotor is contacted, causing the noise. The noise is most noticeable on a side when turning in the opposite direction--e.g. a sharp left turn would make the right side sing.

The fix for me was to carefully bend the shield farther away from the rotor. I used thin cardboard to protect the rotors while carefully bending it with a screwdriver, then sliding cardboard in the cap to clean out all the crap. I wouldn't remove the shield because it protects the steering knuckles from the heat of the wheel bearings and the brakes.

Sometimes I do hear a squeaking noise after rainy days that appears to come from the rear wheels but who knows. I suspect it is caused by a thin layer of rust somewhere. Since my vehicle is still covered by service contract, I will ask a dealership soon about some other minor noises (I think) I've been hearing from the front end.

Reply to
Greg Houston

That's just an asinine comment. The braking systems used by Ford, GM, and Chrysler ALL come from the same set of vendors, mainly Kelsey-Hayes and Bendix. And many foreign car brake systems (especially Japanese) are virtually identical, even when built by other vendors. I've heard squealing brakes from every major brand of vehicle, its extremely common. The cure is to install the pads properly with all the anti-rattle clips and with backing adhesive ("Brake Quiet" type compounds, usually supplied with the pads but also available in larger bottles). Gotta CLEAN the caliper piston and anvil surfaces before applying the stuff or it won't work.

Reply to
Steve

Morse is located in Chicago. In the write ups I read, their pads are rated well. This is not a high performance car (my wife drives it), so I was/am not in the market for $100.00 set of pads. I do watch what I buy from AutoZone, these pads break well, better than the ones I bought at NAPA and paid more for, that died with my rotors after

Reply to
Dan

Yes. Had squeal about 2-3 yr ago on my then fairly new Mercedes.

And I regularly hear squeals from other cars and commercial vehicles, and here in UK our product mix is quite different (even if half or more of the cars are made by GM and Ford).

DAS

For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling

Reply to
Dori A Schmetterling

I know the possibility exists that brakes can squeal when braking, but not constantly at low speeds and even worse while turning corners.

Reply to
Dan

Sorry, didn't take in your post properly. Only on braking.

Still, I doubt that your reported squeal would be particular to any brand.

DAS

For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling

Reply to
Dori A Schmetterling

Yes, today they are all MADE by a few companies, but notice the parts are not necessarily interchangeable between systems built by one company for different car manufacturers. There is the little thing called design. It is controlled not by the brake manufacturer, but by the auto manufacturer, who specifies how it is to be built.

Also, if you look back just a few years, GM used exclusively Delco Moraine - which was a wholly owned GM subsidiary.Chrysler used almost exclusively their own manufacture, with a good mix of Kelsey Hayes thrown in in later years.AMC used Delco Moraine, Bendix, and Bendix/Budd hybrids (bendix calipers and Budd rotors) And any mechanic who lived through the eighties in North America KNOWS Chrysler's reputation at the time for squealing brakes - whether you worked for a Chrysler dealer or not.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Reply to
mic canic

All:

It turned out to be the shield rubbing the inside of the rotor. Bent it out a little and the squeals are gone. did both front shields. As for the other questions, yes, I did replace the expander (anti rattle) clips, yes, I did re-lube the caliper pins, yes, I did put anti-squeal grease on them. The only thing that resolved it was bending out the shield.

Thanks to ALL who gave me ideas to look at. Dan

Reply to
Dan

All:

It turned out to be the shield rubbing the inside of the rotor. Bent it out a little and the squeals are gone. did both front shields. As for the other questions, yes, I did replace the expander (anti rattle) clips, yes, I did re-lube the caliper pins, yes, I did put anti-squeal grease on them. The only thing that resolved it was bending out the shield.

Thanks to ALL who gave me ideas to look at. Dan

Reply to
Dan

Actually it is the internal "O" ring that pulls the piston back, not the outer boot on most calipers.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Reply to
mic canic

Yes, the "O" ring seals the caliper, but it also "bends" a but as the piston slides though - and when the pressure is released, the "O" ring straightens back out, pulling the piston back in just a smidge. This gives the clearance. Take a good look at the boot, flex it around - then try to push the piston back with your fingers. Note how little resistance the boot gives to being deformed - and how much force it takes to move the piston. Absolutely no way the boot could handle pulling the caliper back.

Your instructor at Chryaler only taught you half of the story.

I've taught it too - and I've tried to get the whole story told.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

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