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General Car related question, a real stumper. Need a hand!

OK, it's NOT a Chrysler, but people here are pretty good at solving problems:

I have a 1989 Mazda 626. It sat in a friend's yard for 2 years, and when I loused up my Grand Voyager I bought it for $150.

The Anti-Freeze was Rusti-Freeze. It would get up to operating temp when idling, so I drained the radiator, put in radiator flush and ran the procedure according to the instructions. I even filled/drained it a THIRD time to make sure I got out as much gunk as I could.

Refilled it with Peak AF, probably 60/40 mixture since it was going to freeze that night and didn't want the block freezing. When I took it out for a ride, the needle hardly moved from Cold. When the car is left idling for 10-15 minutes, it gets up to operating temp, the guage reflects the temperature, the fan kicks on, etc.

After two days, I replaced the thermostat, making sure to place the 'plug' towards the engine side, the same as the old one that came out, and according to the Haynes manual I got with the car. Still wouldn't get up to operating temp under normal driving conditions.

Then I replaced the Radiator cap, knowing that sometimes with the Chryslers this can have an effect on the operating temp. Nada...still running Cold.

I didn't know how old the timing belt was, so when I replaced the belt I replaced the water pump also. The old one was leaking, so it has a new WP and gasket.

STILL Cold!

I can't figure this one out. I have 'burped' the system to try to release any trapped air; the radiator and the overflow bottle are right where they should be. It acts like the Thermostat is stuck open; before I go and open the thing up again, does anybody have an idea or can point out something I missed?

Thanks!

Reply to
Hachiroku
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Maybe you have a bad gauge.

Reply to
dei_rip

Feel the hoses going to the heater core when the engine is showing warm. Both should feel warm or even hot. You may have a plugged heater core. After that, I would block the radiator and take it for a ride. That should cause the engine towarm up, or perhaps overheat. My last guess is that little engine is getting SO much cold air circulated around it, it can't overcome the losses. Are you missing any sheilds to the side , bottom or top?

Reply to
George Jaynes

The heater core is OK, bacuase when the car DOES warm up after sitting, the heat blows HOT!!!

I have a piece of cardboard in front of the AC condenser, blocking approx

1/3 of the condenser/radiator. No help!

The shields look OK. I thought of that too, since this summer my Supra was overheating after REMOVING one of the sheilds (it helped cooling air go to the radiator).

Reply to
Hachiroku

Nope, when the car is left to idle, the temp gauge rises, and warm air blows out of the vents.

When the car is driven, the gauge falls, and cool air blows from the vents.

Reply to
Hachiroku

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Reply to
mortgahyu

HUH? WTF are you ON about? How do you figure refinancing my home is going to make my car run properly?

Did you read the friggin' thing, MORON!

Keep your friggin' SPAM outta here.

Retard.

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Reply to
Hachiroku

Reply to
ransom

If concern is just that heater blows cold air when driving but hot air at itdle check the heater control valve. On some Mazdas they are vacum controlled. If you have a vacum leak, or it is sticking (possible from sitting in rusty coolant) there may not enough vacum above idle to operate it.

It is common for cars with marginal cooling to run cooler when moving than at idle due to added air flow. If it is warming up to proper temperature for drivability and emissions, don't worry about actual gauge reading, just be aware of changes.

Hachiroku =E3=83=8F=E3=83=81=E3=83=AD=E3=82=AF wrote:

Reply to
ransom

If concern is just that heater blows cold air when driving but hot air at itdle check the heater control valve. On some Mazdas they are vacum controlled. If you have a vacum leak, or it is sticking (possible from sitting in rusty coolant) there may not enough vacum above idle to operate it.

It is common for cars with marginal cooling to run cooler when moving than at idle due to added air flow. If it is warming up to proper temperature for drivability and emissions, don't worry about actual gauge reading, just be aware of changes.

Hachiroku =E3=83=8F=E3=83=81=E3=83=AD=E3=82=AF wrote:

Reply to
ransom

Or a bifg piece of plywood blocking off about 3/4 of the radiator. That took care of it!

Still didn't get anywhere near overheating, and just about got up to operating temp...

Reply to
Hachiroku

Just a thought, maybe the small vent door that allows the outside air to blow thru the vents is stuck open, or the seal is worn, therefore when you drive you force outside air thru the vents along with the warm air. No vent air is moving thru when it idles. Check around your blower motor. Hope this helps

Don

Reply to
DonTraboulsee

Actually, that was one of the FIRST things I did because there were mice living in the car! (opened the glove box to look for the key and a little face looks back at me...)

What it turned out to be was (and I don't feel too bad because whoever put in the LAST thermostat did it too!) the machined lip that's supposed to hold the t-stat in place isn't deep enough, or perhaps the Aftermarket t-stats just aren't *quite* right for the application, because it appears to have slipped out of the groove while replacing the housing. Gooping the gasket, sticking it over the t-stat, and holding the whole mess with a fingertip while replacing the housing turned out to be the trick. A couple of top-offs of fresh A/F and the thing runs GREAT!

Now, I have only done 2 thermostats in my Corollas, but they are made so gravity holds the t-stat while you replace the housing. That way, once it is placed properly, it CAN'T slip down creating an opening!

Yup, there's plenty of reasons why I like Toyotas!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

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