heater control question

Anyone know about the calibration test on a Plymouth Voyager I tried doing the test with the rear wiper and wash button pushed simultaneously. The
fan was on high, and the temp to cold. It went through all the cycles, but one cycle put out warm air through the vent. Does this mean the unit is defective? Does anyone know about this???
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1) Set BLOWER motor on HIGH 2) Set MODE position to PANEL / VENT 3) Open all OUTLETS that air comes out from. 4) Set Temperatures to COLD 5) Press WASH and REAR WIPER button (at the same time) for 5 seconds and release... (let the system do it thing)...If the module completes its test successfully the only LED light that will flash is for the REAR wiper, PUSH this (rear wiper button) for a moment and you will feel much better -J
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I ran the test, but it completed the cycle and automatically shut itself off. Does anyone know if that means the unit is failing? Still chilled to barely warm air coming from heater on high. I can hear the blender motor operate, but there is no way I can tell if it is shutting and opening properly. ANY SUGGESTIONS????
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My suggestion would be to Adhere to these instructions more closely. #2 below is very important. If there were a problem with the HVAC control module the lights should remain blinking.

button to exit test? --If no lights blink everything should be ok with the module Q--Is this vehicle a 98? Q--Is the radiator and the antifreeze overflo bucket full to its level? Q--Is theThermostat a High temp 195deg. --You have to bleed off the air with the small bolt on/near thermostat housing to allow antifreeze to flow into system. Q--Does one of the heater hoses feel warmer than the other that go through firewall to the heater core?
--- With engine at normal operating temperature and running (A/C off): 1) Set BLOWER motor on HIGH 2) Set MODE position to PANEL / VENT (this is the "air in your face" vent) 3) Open all OUTLETS that air comes out from. 4) Set Temperatures to COLD 5) Press WASH and REAR WIPER button (at the same time) for 5 seconds and release... (let the system do it thing)...If the module completes its test successfully the only LED light that will flash is for the REAR wiper, PUSH this (rear wiper button) for a moment and you will feel much better -J
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Wrench 007:
--Does this mean no lights are blinking without first pushing the rear wiper button to exit test? YES not any lights are blinking -it runs through the test mode and then shuts itself off.
--If no lights blink everything should be ok with the module - When I did the recalibration test (Pushing wiper and washer buttons together) - ALL lights came on except the washer one and then ran through a cycle - the rear wiper and rear intermiitent wiper buttons blinked back and forth as it proceeded through the cycle. Then all lights shut off automatically without me touching any other buttons.
Q--Is this vehicle a 98? THIS IS A 99 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
Q--Is the radiator and the antifreeze overflow bucket full to its level? YES
Q--Is the Thermostat a High temp 195deg. YES - brand new just replaced it~!!
--You have to bleed off the air with the small bolt on/near thermostat housing to allow antifreeze to flow into system. THERE does not appear to be a small bolt here - There are two bolts that attach the hose head to the thermostat housing. Other than that no noticeable bolt here.
Q--Does one of the heater hoses feel warmer than the other that go through firewall to the heater core? - Itdoes appear that there is water flowing through the heat core - the IN hose is HOT and the OUT hose seems a bit cooler.
I have run the test as you indicated in your post - but still no success. I even took it to a garage today but they could not even look at it till MONDAY. It is 12 degrees here. BRRRR!
I appreciate your help! THANKS!
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Q--Does this mean no lights are blinking without first pushing the rear wiper button to exit test?

Q--You have to bleed off the air with the small bolt on/near thermostat housing to allow antifreeze to flow into system.

There is a small plug on the front of the front head that is a coolant bleeder, if this plug is not there, use the 4cyl. procedure. For the 4 cylinder; Next to the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing, is a coolant sensor, remove this sensor until coolant runs out (make sure vehicle is not too hot)
Q--Does one of the heater hoses feel warmer than the other that go through firewall to the heater core?

is on vent? If you have a temperature gauge, what temp is it at when vehicle is in operation?
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Dear Wrench007
Q--You have to bleed off the air with the small bolt on/near thermostat housing to allow antifreeze to flow into system. THERE does not appear to be a small bolt here - There are two bolts that attach the hose head to the thermostat housing. Other than that no noticeable bolt here.
For the six cylinder; There is a small plug on the front of the front head that is a coolant bleeder, if this plug is not there, use the 4cyl. procedure. For the 4 cylinder; Next to the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing, is a coolant sensor, remove this sensor until coolant runs out (make sure vehicle is not too hot)
WHAT DOES THE COOLANT SENSOR LOOK LIKE? I DON'T SEEM TO SEE ONE? BESIDE THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING (HELD DOWN BY TWO BOLTS) TO THE RIGHT ON THE SAME THERMOSTAT HOUSING IS A BOLT BUT IT APPEARS TO HOLD THE HEAD ON THE MOTOR???? MY FRIEND (WHO KNOWS A LOT MORE ABOUT CARS) REALLY THOUGHT THIS WAS A HEAD BOLT. IS THIS THE PLUG {COOLANT BLEEDED} YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT (IT LOOKS LIKE A BOLT)???? THE MOTOR IS A 3.3L. WITH A 6 CYLINDER.
Q--Does one of the heater hoses feel warmer than the other that go through firewall to the heater core? It does appear that there is water flowing through the heat core - the IN hose is HOT and the OUT hose seems a bit cooler.
Does your fan motor run continuously when your A/C is off and the mode switch is on vent?
NO - MY FRIEND AND I RAN IT TODAY FOR A LONG WHILE IN IDLE in PARK WITH BOTH THE VENT ON HEAT/COLD BUT THE FAN DID NOT COME ON AND STAY ON. IT DID CYCLE ON ONCE - THE CABIN TEMP GAUGE WAS IN THE HOT POSITION.
If you have a temperature gauge, what temp is it at when vehicle is in operation? IT HAS A BUILT IN TEMP GAUGE IN THE DASH - READS MIDWAY BETWEN HOT AND COLD - THIS IS WHERE IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN - EVEN AFTER REPLACING WITH NEW THERMOSTAT.
THANKS!! I Do appreciate your help. I will try to find the plug in the morning and see if that will do the trick. Please let me know if you read this if I am looking in the right direction.
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--For the six cylinder; There is a small plug on the left end of the front head that is a coolant bleeder, if this plug is not there, use the 4cyl. procedure. --For the 4 cylinder; Next to the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing, is a coolant sensor, remove this sensor until coolant runs out (make sure vehicle is not too hot)

the cooling system professionally backflushed or replace the heater core.

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The vehicle has to be at operating temp before the test will run and complete its cycle, if you are having a no heat problem in the vehicle the test will never pass because it wants to see hot and very cold. if the probe only see cold it will fail? First of all why are you trying to run this test? NO HEAT?
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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GLENN
The vehicle has to be at operating temp before the test will run and complete its cycle (IT WAS), if you are having a no heat problem in the vehicle the test will never pass because it wants to see hot and very cold. if the probe only see cold it will fail? First of all why are you trying to run this test? NO HEAT? YES there is no heat and I have read on different posts that the heat control might be a problem. From what I have been able to determine here's my problem:
*Antifreeze fine *Thermostat fine *Heater control appears to work okay *Fan works in all speeds *The blend door appears to open/close (you can hear motor moving door and it changes the temp although HOT is barely warm) *In and Out hoses to Heat Core seem to be working properly - IN is hot and OUT is cooler (but they are a pain to reach so it is really hard to tell this for sure.
I had someone tell me it might be a air problem in the heat core but don't know how to fix this and the man I spoke with at the garage today told me he doubted that would be the problem since I had no major work done on the cooling system. Someone else recommended I have a cooling system flush but someone told me it wouldn't help! A friend and I changed the thermostat and we did it quicky and there did not seem to be any air in the system then. We did it right but it is still the same old WARM not hot air! Who knows??? I can take it to a local Dodge garage but since I am in full-time Christian ministry the cost to just look at it scares me ($55.00) and I have heard horror stories about what they might do. I really do not have $750 to $1,000 to invest and then maybe still not have heat??
I appreciate your time! Thanks so much!
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Ok I think I just replied to another post you submitted

Well if the out is alot cooler then the in you have a blockage

Has nothing to do with air in the heater core
Someone else recommended I have a cooling system flush but

Hmm $55 scares you? the dealer I work at is at $90. And I have heard horror stories about many dealers and independent garages. And have heard of many horror stories at the Christian School I sent my son.
You can keep throwing parts at it and maybe fix it, but if it is a calibration problem that can be calibrated by a scan tool at the dealer why not have them check for codes and do a recalibration on it???
I really do not have

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