Oil for 2.7 Engine

After reading the Stratus manual, Chrysler recommends using their brand MS9214 Oil when using regular fuel or MS6395 when using ethanol.
In the past I have used Casterol brand oil in all my vehicles with
success. Will this brand oil work in my Stratus.
I want to use an oil that I can pick up easily.
Does anyone know of a website that compares motor oil?
I appearently need one that provides "High Shear Strength."
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On 2006-07-23, bernsax wrote:

Of course they recommend that. They want you to buy more of their products.

Of course it will work, as would any other brand of oil. It's "Castrol", by the way.

Castrol can be found most anywhere.

http://www.google.com
I have used Castrol in all my vehicles for many years. Assuming it's a late model Stratus, put 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 5W-30 in it and quit worrying.
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Dan C wrote:

You don't know what you're talking about. The 2.7 engine requires an oil which meets the specs for additional high film shear strength because of the metal timing gears and chain.
This type of oil was readly available in Europe, but only at the dealers in the US at first. This led eventually to the Mobil 1 0w-40 being made available other places then the dealerships. The Mobil connection goes back quite a ways with MB racing.
Oils must meet MB spec of > 3.5 cP for high temperature high shear strength.
Mobil 1 0W-40 is certified for this and many other brands have a comparable product. Some of Mobil's new extended drain oils that are not fully synthetic are also certified.
In the 2.7L you need to use only an oil rated ACEA A3, B3/B4 in a 0w or 5w oil, the 20, 30, 40 is only the heat range ability.
Approved:
AGIP EXTRA HTS 5W-40 AGIP Synthetic PC 0W-40 AGIP Eurosport 0W-40 Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Aral HighTronic 5W-40 Aral SuperSynth 0W-40 Aral Super Tronic 0W-40 Aviasynth 0W-40 Castrol DCO TOPUP SAE 0W-30 Castrol Formula RS Road and Track 5W-40 Castrol GTX7 DYNATEC 5W-40 Castrol Formula SLX 0W-30 Castrol TXT SOFTEC PLUS 5W-30 CIFAB Synthoil Hydrocrack HC7 5W-40 Elf Excellium LDX SAE 5W-40 Esso Ultron 0W-30 (fuel economy) Esso Ultron 5W-40 Fuchs Titan SuperSyn SL 0W-30 Havoline Synthetic DS 0W-30 Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Liqui Moly Diesel Synthoil 5W-40 Liqui Moly High Tech 5W-40 Liqui Moly HC7 5W-40 LUKOIL SYNTEETIK 5W-40 Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40 Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-40 Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-50 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 Mobil Synt S 5W-40 Mobil Synt S Turbo Diesel 5W-40 Mobil Syst S 5W-40 Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40 Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Pennzoil Synthetic European Formulation 5W-40 Pentosin Pentospeed 0W-30 VS Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formulation 5W-40 Schaeffer Micron Moly 5W-30, Schaeffer Supreme 7000 5W-30, 76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40 Shell Helix Plus S 5W-40 (Mercedes-Benz) Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 Sunoco Synturo Gold 5W-40 (introduced January 2002) Total FINA First 5W-40 Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 Valvoline DuraBlend MXL 5W-40 Valvoline SynPower MXL 0W-30 Valvoline SynPower 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 Veedol POWERTRON 5W-30 Veedol SYNTRON 0W-30
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On 2006-07-24, Tony D. wrote:

Who said anything about a 2.7 engine?
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wrote:

Virtually all of the good quality SE and SF rated oils had the shear strength and other required characteristics required for this engine - a 10W30 or 10W40 would have been more than adequate with ONE problem. They all had too much ZINC in them to meet the requirement today, due to the requirement that the cat not be poisoned by zinc if and when the engine starts to use a bit of oil.
If you are willing to replace the cat before 160,000km, one of the best oils you could use in the 2.7 today is 4 stroke motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oil is still allowed to use significant amounts of Zinc as EP lubricant. STP oil treatment apparently also has significant amounts of Zinc, and I was told by a long-time Chrysler mechanic today that there has been very good results on 2.7 engines running 5W30 oil and half a can of STP with 5000km or 3 month oil change intervals. The chain tensioners remain absolutely free and clean with no evidence of coking. Engines running synthetic oil at 6 month/6000km change intervals are still having the problem. The tensioners apparently hang, and the chain jumps, and "that's all she wrote" - according to his experience and explanation.
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<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote

OK, now that you explained the problem in terms that make sense, let's look again.
How many of you (raise your hands) think that a modern engine that can not put up with normal amounts of oil coking, might have an engineering design deficiency?
OK, put your hands down, I can't count that high.
Sheesh. I have to tell you, my faith in Chrysler products is falling by the minute, after hanging out here for a while. From window opener motors that can not overcome sticking without failing, to chain tensioners requiring special oil, to....
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Jim in NC


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So this is the first (or one of the very few) engines that have metal timing chains and gears?
fiddlesticks.
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On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:49:10 -0400, "Morgans"

One of the first possibly since the elimination of Zinc from the engine's lubrication diet. If the cats on my V6 Mystique were not so DREADFULLY expensive I'd be running MC4 grade oil. Still might.
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Thanks to all for imput. The actual reason I am concerned about the oil is a friend of mine is a shop foreman for a used car dealership.
He told me that there were 6 Dodge products sitting at his shop with the 2.7 engine that were waiting for head replacement due to the chain tensioner collapsing.
He said the chain tensioner should be replaced on this motor at about the 50,000 to 60,000 mile range.
He also said to change the oil frequently.
I am concerned because I bought this car for my daughter. At the time, I didn't realize the 2.7 motor had such a timing chain problem. Obviously,I want to use the proper oil so I can head off future problems.
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wrote:

MOST IMPORTANT is to change the oil OFTEN ENOUGH. Next is the quality of the oil. My Chrysler Tech friend said he has never seen an "over maintained" 2.7 fail, and that expensive synthetic oil has no better performance record on these engines than straight petro based oil. He highly recommended using STP or any other high zinc EP/AW additive. The engine is basically designed for early 1980's lubricants - the current crop of "crippled" engine oils are not adequate for the job. There is no currently available EP or AW additive for use in I.C. engines that performs as well as Zinc.
Some Chevron Information: Zinc Dithiophosphates
Oronite's Zinc Dithiophosphates (ZDTPs) inhibit lubricant oxidation, and therefore reduce the wear of engine parts, resulting in these improvements:
Reduced deposit and varnish formation Less increase in the oil’s viscosity Reduced bearing corrosion Reduced ring sticking Longer life of engine parts The ZDTPs accomplish these improvements by terminating free radical reactions in engine oils, by decomposing peroxides in engine oils, and by forming a thin lubricating boundary layer on engine parts to prevent EP wear. Wear and oxidation inhibition properties are dependant upon the ZDTP used.
Chevron Oronite’s Capabilities
Oronite offers these four products to meet your needs:
OLOA 260 Oxidation, Corrosion and EP Wear Inhibitor OLOA 262 Oxidation, Corrosion and EP Wear Inhibitor OLOA 267 Oxidation, Corrosion and EP Wear Inhibitor OLOA 269R Oxidation, Corrosion and EP Wear Inhibitor
--
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bernsax wrote:

The engine doesn't have a "timing chain problem" if used with the proper oil. These engines have tens of millions of miles on them in Europe and here with no problems. If you use the oil specified and don't listen to people who know absolutely nothing and tell you to use "good ol' Castrol" etc, like their daddy did, you're going to have a problem.
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wrote:

LOTS of problems with "dealer serviced" 2.7 engines. Is the dealer not using the proper oil??????
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clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Counting the number of dealers who put the wrong oil in the 5.7 MDS engines, I would think the same people who can't read an owner's manual, don't read the tech manuals either.
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Here is a chart of Shear strength for some tested oils... If shear strength vers. price are your concerns, it would appear that Castrol Hard Drive, or Quaker State Peak Performance would be your best bet based on the tested oils...
http://www.oilhelp.com/api_co3.jpg
The tests are a few years old, so some of the oils tested might not even be available any more, or may have a different formulation now. Check it out and see for yourself what you think...
Check out the main site as well, and compare the other charts for a full comparison... http://www.oilhelp.com /

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Here is a link to a PDF file on the same site. Test results are from summer 2005, a little more modern than those listed on the opening page, or provided in the image I linked to below...
http://advancedlubetech.com/USD/amsoil/pdfs/comparisons.pdf

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