Power window problem on a 2002 Dodge Caravan

The window on the drivers side of my van broke. We pulled apart the door and saw that the cables that move the window are all bent up and out of shape. I havnt been to a dealer yet because once we put the cables back it
worked until you actually try and use the window. Does anyone know where we can get new wires for the window? Sorry i dont know alot about cars this is just what i saw everything works fine except for the bent up wires
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we
Purchase the complete regulator from the dealer, it comes complete with motor and all Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Glen and Dodge owners: I have a 98 Dodge Caravan SE ( made in Canada) The driver's door power window has become intermittant. It moves at normal speed both up and down when it works, but once moved, it occassionally does not respond to the switch to go up or down.Randomly it will start to work, or if I strike the interior door panel, or slam the door closed, it often starts to work. I removed the control panel, cleaned the switch connector and since that did not make a permanent improvement, I then took all the panels off, and cleaned the motor connector. No pitting, felt tight. Nothing seemed wrong with the regulator mechanism, atleast visually, so I am assuming that it is an electrical issue. (there was no evidence of over heating nor any burnt smell)
Sincerely Peter maxpower wrote:

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door

of
back it

where
works
More then likely its the window regualtor assembly. Chrysler or who ever makes theses parts for them cant seem to get it right because window motors have been a problem for years on the Mini Vans and LH vehicles. The only way to check it out is when it happens make sure you have 12 volts at the motor. I would bet that you do.....and then while you are at it, hit the motor with the palm of your hand as you are holding the window switch up or down and I will bet you again it moves. If so replace the regulator assembly. and if you take the bet. I will let you know where to send check.
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Glen: Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I will have to take the interior trim panels off again, and probably break a few more of those odd plastic retainer clips ! The strange thing is that when the window moves, it moves smoothly and as quickly as the passenger side window so I didn't feel that the regulator motor was going bad. Or is there some sensor or other control related function in the regulator assembly ? I've resorted to only lowering the window part way as I have found that if I hit or jiggle the window glass that the window will work more readily than hitting the door panel to make the window move again. OR is it just the motor's commutator or brushes have gone bad so at certain positions of the armature, the motor hits a dead spot ? Peter
maxpower wrote:

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the

out
everything
with
motors
only
the
or
let
I have not taken apart the motor, the when they stop working it is normally in the down position. Yours need to be replaced
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Dodge Dudes: Thank you again for the replies. Now, I have to buy just the motor or the motor + regulator as an assembly. What is the best place or way to buy one. I am lazy, so I did a search on Autozone, nothing, then I did a search on Kragen, and the had one. Is that the best comprimise ? They seem to have many Cardone models. Is that a good brand ? Peter maxpower wrote:

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apart

and
cables
know
complete
ever
at
the
switch up

will
normally
The window regulator assembly has been updated several times. now you get the motor and reg as one part. my opinion, stick with Mopar
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You could also check the wiring harness bettween the door and the body. had a 76 New Yorker with broken wires.You have to pry back the boot to see them.
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Need some advice I found a replacement motor for $101.99 at Kragen, and also the oem part at my local Dodge dealer for $132.25
Question, which should I buy ? The Cardone part from Kragen(Partsamerica) has a lifetime warranty. I don't think there is any warranty on the OEM part.
Peter
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Mopar carries 12 month warranty. Get the updated part from Chrysler.
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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glenn: Thanks for the quick reply. They also had the whole motor + regulator as an assembly for $215 I don't have any problem with the regulator that I can notice, but from your experience it is advisable to change the regulator when the motor begins to die ?
Peter maxpower wrote:

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oem
that's the update part, it comes complete with regulator/motor
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Maxpower:
So what's your opinion on whether to replace the regulator when replacing the motor ? I don't want to spend more than I have too, but on the other hand I don't want to be taking the interior door panels on and off ? Peter maxpower wrote:

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Lets see! He said to use the Mopar part! And he said the Mopar part has the regulater assembly attached. Can you READ!
-
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Sorry if I wasn't explicit enough for some members. I merely wanted to know if there was a clear relationship between the life of the motor and the regulator. I double checked with two local Dodge dealers and the Mopar part/assembly is available as either a motor + regulator assembly or just the motor alone. Did you check ? Why spend an extra $70 if a regulator is not required. I don't remember any procedures for evaluating the remaining service life of the regulator ? DO you, harts ? I was hoping that someone would be kind enough to share their experience or knowledge.
Peter snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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Well, you are taking out the assembly to get the motor out. Then you will be spending time to R/R/ the motor. The regulator is plastic. Plastics degrade due to heat and cold. So you are spending the time to do it, why not spend the extra $70.00 to save at least 30 minutes of time, and have an updated motor, and newer plastic regulator!
-
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Update: This afternoon, I took off the interior door panel. There were two screws on the power window motor case's flange. Instead of the motor popping off of the regulator assembly, the motor housing came off. I turned the armature and disengaged the worm drive. I noticed that the commutator looked good, no grooving. I looked at the brushes. Now I knew why the motor occassionally worked. The brush's lead came out at 90 degrees to the long axis of the brush, and limited its stroke in the brush housing. The brush spring was pushing the brush but its lead was hitting the brush housing so when the brush wore down, it could no longer make contact to the commutator. I measured the original brush dimension as 4.43mm x 4.46 mm, almost square. It looked almost the same size as the brushes in my radio control model car motors, 3.8 x 4.8 mm. I took couple of strokes of a file and my RC motor brush was now 3.8 x 4.5mm. I put them in and voila, the window motor is working again. I realize that I should have put in a 4.5 x 4.5 mm brush but I didn't have any around the house. I lubed the armature shaft bearing surfaces with high temperature grease so that it would not flow into the commutator ( the bearings looked pretty dry).
If that doesn't sound like a good idea, perhaps, when it finally fails, I will go to Autozone. I found a motor + regulator for about $79 dollars . It was the cheapest I could find, but compared to the $3.00 brushes its still a lot more.
Peter snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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the
is
Chrysler.
Sorry for the delay in reply, just got back from a golf trip. The old style window regulator had problems with the cables breaking and the motors failing, The complete part has been updated
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practicalsarah wrote:

I had a similar problem. In my case it was the motor that was bad, but in trying to change it I messed up the regulator, which is very easy to do, unless you are carefull. I was told that once the regulator got busted, you had to get a new one. about the only place you could get one was the dealer. If you are mechanically inclined, you could replace it yourself, otherwise have it done for you.
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