1998 Ram 3500 cummins no power

My 1998 Dodge diesel suddenly has no power. I went on a 2.200 mile road trip pulling a 30ft fifth wheel with no problems at all, but now, three weeks
later it barely has enough power to get on the freeway with no load at all. I have replaced the fuel filter and air filter with no results. I have bought fuel at three different stations thinking maybe it was bad fuel but had no results. The truck does not smoke or run hot and everything seems normal except no power. The truck will get up to speed (I had going 90 mph) but it takes forever. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Randy
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12V or 24V? What's the fuel pressure between the filter and the injection pump? Have you checked for any boost leaks?
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It is a 12v and I have checked nothing other than what I stated. I don't know how to check the fuel pressure. If it had a boost leak wouldn't I be able to hear it?

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Is the turbo still spinning? Can you hear it whining?
John
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The turbo is not spinning but I was told that it would smoke and run hot if the turbo was bad. It has no other problems except no power.

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Assuming that the turbo is not spinning while the truck is running, the problem is YOU NEED a TURBO. It should spin any time the truck is running. While the truck is off, pull the breather hose off and make sure that the turbo can spin freely, it should. There may be some in and out play. A "little" is ok, but more than about 1/8in is going to show wear will be an indication that seal are in need. White smoke usually goes with this as well. White smoke shows your burning oil.
Depending on how your truck is set up, most of your fuel may be set to come in with the AFC. It fuels, based on the boost pressures. No pressure, no added fuel no power. I have my truck set up this way. It helps to limit smoke and makes smother power.
The turbo air has two functions; 1) provides "air" for combustion 2) provides cooling air for the cylinders
SO, you can melt down if you have "enough" fuel without the cooling volume, but with enough to burn the most of the fuel(means it will be most likely be smoking out the tail pipe). Temperatures can easily reach the melting point of the pistons(over 1500F). Regular road cruse temps are around 700-900F. MELT DOWN does not make a sound as the truck dies.
One thing that could have "killed" your turbo, is not allowing shut down time. From 3mins to 30seconds is all it takes to cool down the turbo before shutdown. It depend on how you were driving just prior to shutdown. Oil will burn and coke around 400F. IF you work the truck and quickly shut it down, the EGT(Exhaust Gas Temperature) could easily be in the 600F range. Oil would coke and clog the oil line that would lubercate the turbo. This would at some time kill the turbo.
MY 2cents, if your turbo is fried from the lack of lube as described above. Get a hybrid HX35/40 turbo which will provide more air quicker than your HX-35. Then get on the forums and start on the path to the dark side (bombing)<learning to add hp to your truck>
IF your going to keep the truck, get some gauges(EGT and Boost Pressure) at the least. You can make 400hp, easy without harming mpg. Many times the upgrades will add up to 2mpg.
Their are a couple of wonderful forums; http://www.dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi http://www.dieseltruckresource.com /

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