2001 CTD auto tranny problem

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with CTD, and I believe the 46RE tranny. 160k mileage. Recently the tranny has started doing tricks, somewhat consistently in
colder weather. After driving just a little (a few blocks), if I go to reverse and back to forward, like to turn around in a tight place, the tranny seems to let go, pretty much like being in neutral. Going to R and back to D doesn't usually do anything. After maybe 5 seconds at idle, there is the usual mild jolt like when you first select Drive, and off you go normally. The severity of this varies somewhat, possibly with ambient temperature, and I don't think it has happened when the truck is completely warmed up. At first, I thought it had to do with the slope of the ground where the truck was parked, but now I'm not too sure about that. Is this likely to be the computer gadget, and if so, is dealing with that an external process? I'll be taking it to a shop, but I first wanted to get a feel for what's going on.
Thanks, Bill
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Sounds like $2000 of rebuild to me

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For either a sticking valve body or a mis-behaving governor pressure sensor?
Do you EVER post anything of value?
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Tom, What Dodge dealer parts dept have you posted about? Ten....something?
Roy
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Tenafly Chrysler - looks like they changed their name to Wyckoff Chrysler. Probably new management:
http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/mopserreppar.html
And with that new management came what looks like new pricing policies... they're down to 15-25% off retail. They used to be 30-35% off.
There's probably better deals to be had elsewhere.
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That's not much of a deal.

Yup, I'm sure there are. Thanks anyway.
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Sounds like you don't know shit about transmissions to me. See, its not a rebuild problem at this point, and I doubt it will be.
Should proper diagnostics indicate a rebuild, it'll be more like $2500.
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Fluid and filter change can't hurt. But, I'm also thinking rebuild time. Seems like every Dodge vehicle I've owned has needed a rebuild some time in the time I've owned it.
My 1974 Dodge Dart, I had a fluid change and band adjustment at the local repair garage. Went from working fine to definitely wrong. So, skip the band adjustment as part of routine maint. Fluid and filter and gasket change is a good idea. That transmission fluid sure gets thick and heavy.
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If the bands are properly adjusted, it won't do anything negative to trans operation.
If the fluid was thick and heavy, and you had it changed, its very possible the new fluid unclogged some internal leaks by sweaping away the dirt. ATF has a high detergent content compared to motor oil. Also ATF is about 10w, compared to a multiviscosity motor oil.
About the only thing that indicates tearing the trans down is the rear drum seal leak, as Kunkle noted. While this is a possibility, much diagnostic has to occur between now and final determination of that as the problem. It would be a bad thing to spend $2500 on a rebuild only to find that the problem was far simpler.
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In a 2001 Cummins truck, you have a 47RE. You should be able to get trouble codes by doing a key on/off three times, then leaving it on and watching the odo for the "P****" codes. Also, you don't mention if the bands have been adjusted. If not, do so, since 160k is way after the maintenance interval.
After reading again, you don't mention fluid level. Sounds stupid, but it is sometimes overlooked. Also, converter drainback can be a problem. Try starting the engine in neutral and allowing a minute or so of idle time, then putting it in gear. If this eliminates the problem, you've also found the simplest solution.
If you get codes, it'll probably have to do with the governor solenoids or the APPS.
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fluid level is normal. Just did the P code thing and it shows: P doNE
Does that mean it's likely the drainback issue?
Thanks, Bill

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Could be. Try starting in neutral and letting it idle there for a minute or two, then driving. If the problem goes away, you've got the drainback issue.
Although, IIRC, the trans solenoids don't always set a code, despite the logic being that they should do so.
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Failure to drive forward in D when cold could be hardened/shrunken seals in the rear clutch. This allows enough leakage to prevent clutch engagement but the seals soften somewhat when the fluid warms up and will seal better. A clogged filter could cause the same problem.
If the problem occurs after a few blocks of driving, converter drainback isn't likely the problem and no bands are used to start out in D so band adjustment, while probably overdue, isn't the problem either.
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Bands were adjusted, fluid, filter changed about 4k miles back.
Bill

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Ah, now we have more information.
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I would like to let everyone in the group know (many of you probably already do know though) that you must use ATF +3 or +4 in Dodge vehicles. I had one tranny go in a 1997 Dakota just two weeks after I bought it, had only 65K miles. Luckily, the warranty company, Guardian, was very good at following through with their warranty claims to repair it. They actually replaced it with a used one with close to same mileage on it. But, of course, the freaking transmission shop put Mercon Dexron III in it after replacing it. I have been meaning to change it to ATF type but just recently got around to getting 'er done. Just prior to changing the fluid, with cold temperatures up here in New Jersey, I noticed it was slipping a bit when taking off from a stop, until it warmed up a bit. After replacing the fluid to ATF +4 this has no longer happened, and I could tell the difference in smoothness of shifting immediately.
Barry Guidry New Jersey

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