Dealer says I need to replace fuel tank to get rid of P0455 code...they
performed a 'smoke' test and it appears I have an emissions leak on the fuel
tank where it is molded together. They quoted $800 for the tank, $150-200
to install it. Any body else ever experienced this? I feel that I can
replace the fuel tank if I can find an aftermarket tank or one from salvage.
800 for a tank is ridiculous. Also if truck has under 50 K on it, they
have to fix it because of 5yr/50 K emissions warranty. Look for other
sources for ou fuel tank if you have to pay for it or ignore the codes
if it is okay otherwise. If it is not leaking fuel, I would not be
too concerned at this stage but if it is leaking fuel, that is a
Is the leaking mold near the top of the tank? If so, you could wait a
while and look for a better deal. Also, is it plastic? I'd be inclined
to try to fix it -- take it off, drain it, find the leak, take a lighter
and extra plastic and try to fuse it all together. If it's metal, gas
tank patch will work -- it might on plastic too but have not as yet had
one. Or you could braise the leak with copper if you know someone with
torches --- but be really careful there is no fuel left. While you're at
it, look for any filters you can replace and inspect fuel pump if there
My thought is if it took a smoke test to find the leak, it can't be that
bad or you would have smelled it and seen the puddles. If it is leaking
even just a little but STEADILY, I'm with SnoMan and fix it. ALso, I can
get a used plastic tank for my old ram for $200 cdn -- but have other
things to spend it on. Can't believe that price $800 either. If it's
only leaking when full (mold near top), just don't fill it! I've had a
77 gmc for 7 years and it always leaked at about 80% so I fill the tank
looking under it!
I have a fuel tank on a old tractor that I have repaired a few times
with a torch with no problems. I drain the fuel and then pour in some
alchol and swish it around and then drain that (because alchol can
bind with gas and water) then fill it with water to push out all of
the vapors then drain it and repair it. You could also just fill tank
with pure nitrogen or CO2 if you have access to it and it will no
"burn" then either. If you use the water methods, add a little alchol
when you are done and refill tank to remove/bind with any water that
may be present when you refuel it.
Good plan -- we always did this sort of work in summer so after we
finished fixing them we just left them in the hot sun to dry out (steam
cleaned), but with the older models the engines can just cough and
splutter until the water is out -- used to add a bit of gas-line antifreeze.
I've even sanded and fibre-glassed to fix (back when I was a teen and
was even greener behind the ears) with a musician doing the gas tank
removal part for me.
using the clean-out gas tank method, your way is better with the alcohol
SnoMan -- isopropyl 97% or rubbing or doesn't it matter?
I guess I didn't explain things very well did I? Yes, didn't really
think before about why you leave the water in -- thought it just
wouldn't cause a big explosion if things went wrong (god I can be
ignorant without even knowing it!!!)
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