2003 Ram Hemi-Spark Plug Replacement

17.12 is not 200% of 10.80, as you claim.

If you couldn't see that, you don't have a handle on percentages.

Within spec? Thats great, show me a "spec" for a cap and rotor, please.

If you had bothered to pay attention, the factory champion plugs that seem to be a favorite for these trucks are a copper core plug but even if they were not, the service schedule takes the expected life of the plug into account so my point is still valid and you are still full of it.

Yep, general opinion, not all, unless of course, you are taking us back to Maxworld where the meanings of words changes to suit your needs.

Really???? Please show me where GENERAL is defined as ALL.

As I have also said and if Platinums were the answer to all, that would be the factory plug for all vehicles, wait, I already said that.

Redefining the language does not make your point any more valid.

Of course you did. It is easy to do when you are the one spinnig it in that direction.

Once again, you accuse me of performing your actions, LOL.

You aren't getting this are you? I don't care about copper core or voltage across the gap. Why? because at 50,000v, I doubt it'll be a problem. I'm more interested in not having to pull the plugs every 10k because of soft electrodes.

Sure....

As in....Concerned with, applicable to, or affecting the whole or every member of a class or category:

Done here, move along.....

No, Tom, I never said one way or another what kind of electrode the plugs had. YOU ASSUMED THEM TO BE ADJUSTABLE, which is typical for you, then decided to offer advice without a sufficient amount of information. That puts the blame squarely upon you for beginning an argument.

All I said was what my brother experienced with the set of plugs he bought when I wasn't nearby to advise him.

Surface gap plugs and multigap plugs both require higher voltages to work as originally designed, that is, 30-80K volts or more. Both were originally designs for use as plasma discharge ignitors for aircraft engines in an effort to reduce or eliminate the need for dual ignition systems on aircraft, fyi.

Modern FACTORY OEM AUTOMOTIVE ignitions are borderline at best for firing them

Now, if this continues as an argument, it's on your head.

Budd

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Then you are an idiot. The voltage across the gap means EVERYTHING and if you don't care about it, why did you mention it???

Hahahahahahahahahaha, you really don't have a clue as to what a coil does or how, do you?

My factory copper core went well over 50K and the only reason that I replaced them is that they were WAY over there expected life. Funny thing is that they still were in pretty good shape and could have gone another 10K or more.

LOL, are we a class or catagory? Perhaps you should look at the definition right under that one, you know, the one that actually deals with people.

1.. Affecting or characteristic of the majority of those involved; prevalent: general discontent. Now unless you care to prove that majority means all, you are still wrong, imagine that.

Yes Max, you have been done since you started your typical whining now lets see if you hold up to even this comment.

Did the word ALMOST slip by you or did you just redefine that one as well.

That is why I said almost instead of IS, get it yet???

Contacts clean, little to no visible carbon arc trails, no visible wear on the rotor or cap contacts, and no cracks in the cap. Sounds like in spec to me. Now are you going to respond to this with three identical posts too.

I didn't. You did. Talking out your ass about resistance and voltages.... the stuff ignites with a spark, doesn't matter if the spark is 10v or

100,000v. You simply have to have the setup working correctly for the voltage you have. Fortunately, sparkplug designers already did the math.

Obviously, if you think 50kv is something to laugh about, you don't either.

Um.... so...... you have proven exactly why the factory plugs aren't holding up as well as the platinums. Did you meant to do that? "Hey, my plugs did fine until they were well beyond spcification". THen they didn't do too well, did they? But hey, you replaced them, and all because they were way over due... but the cap and rotor, screw that, THOSE can sitt for as long as they want, because they never go out of "spec", right?

See Tom, I'm done the factual part of the exchange, now I'm just making fun of you, waiting for you to slip... again. Then, you'll disappear for a month, and leave us in peace.

Yeah, well you categorized us as those in the newsgroup, so if you don't like ht category, stop making them and dumping us in them.

LOL, it is you who is whining and pulling every move you can to get this to NOT be a massive failure on your part. I give ya a tip: the easiest way to do that is to shut the hell up.

17.12 isn't ALMOST 21.60 either. its about 4 short. when moving 10 increments, having 4 more to go is not "ALMOST". GO ahead, argue......

Thats not a spec, thats making a judgment call. "Spec" calls for new, since that is the only condition where things will be perfect.

And yeah, I'll post it four times, if ya want......

Do really belive this? Brass or copper contacts are better than aluminum on caps and rotors - but the standard Mopar cap/rotor uses aluminum. Spiral-cell, deep cycle batteries are more durable and last longer than the standard lead-acid batteries, yet the factory batteries are lead-acid. Braided stainless steel brake lines are better than plain-old rubber lines, yet the factory puts on rubber.

So, do you REALLY think the reason Dodge doesn't put in platinum plugs from the factory is because they don't last longer, or maybe because they're a bit more expensive, and the lowest bidder won out?

PS - all these cars with 100K spark plug changes... how do you think they're tipped?

Of course he doesn't believe it, because it flies in the face of his argument that the manufacturer will cut corners on anything. His favorite example is the rear axle, which he claims is assembled with substandard (aack, did I just say that word that caused a long standing BS routine to come from him??)bearings. But that doesn't apply to the spark plugs. Only the best can be used there.

1.58* is ALMOST twice as much? Must be a new math thing.

Nah, its an "I understand percentages, I just don't know how to read, convert, or apply them" thing.

But hey, if ya round up vigorously, its "almost" anything ya want to hide behind.

True. 2 + 2 = 5 for very large values of 2.

Wouldn't that only be true if your seat heaters were on????

Denny

Yep.

So? Does the use of copper or brass triple the life of the component? I don't think so.

Deep cycle batteries do not always do well in SLI applications and cost MUCH more for little benefit. Spiral-cell batteries are also a fairly new development so who knows what will be comming in the future as stock for trucks.

In today's world, even the rubber lines tend to outlast many sets of pads and shoes and even first owners so why spend the extra money for no measurable benefit? They also tend not to last a whole lot longer than their rubber counterparts when people let the fluid turn bad (as most do) and eat them from the inside out.

If price were the case, no vehicles would use them because they always cost more than their standard counterparts. The cost increase is minimal compared to the HUGE selling point of no tuneups required for 100,000 miles so I would say that they have other reasons besides the small cost increase.

With Platinum plugs for the low required maintenance selling point which would be just as valid for the trucks as well but yet, they don't do it. I wonder why?

Hahahahahahahahaha, you are joking, right????

That is correct to a point but that is not always possible with certian components as your buddy made clear with his brothers vehicle.

Do you really think that a factory coil is even capable of putting out 50kv? Most are more in the range of 15kv to 20kv with the GM HEI claiming 50k but that is at idle. At speeds of 3200RPM or so, that voltage drops to around

28Kv or less.

LOL, now you are trying to redefine what I am saying? Sounds like a desperate act to me.

The plugs were still fine when I removed them. Perhaps when I said that the y could have gone another 10K or more should have tipped you off to that. I bought new ones because the old ones were comming up on twice their expected lifetime and had no idea what shape they were going to be in when I removed them. Since I already had the new ones, it made no sence not to replace them since I was going to remove all of the old ones for inspection anyway. As for the cap and rotor, I had already looked at them since they are a bit easier to inspect and they both looked good. Unlike many of you, I don't waste money fixing what ain't broke.

Once again, you accuse me of your own actions and as for making fun of me, with you demonstraighted complete lack of understanding in the operations of the ignition system, the only one you are making a fool out of is yourself.

Really, where did I do that or are you just desperatly reaching again?

Once again, perhaps you should follow your own advice but we both know better. I just pull the strings and you jump to command. The strings have been pulled again, now jump for me.

It is a hell of a lot closer to 21.60 then it is to 10.80, no argument needed.

LOL, even new does not make things perfect and there are always tolerances for these parts for that reason. Just because it is not new does not mean it is still not within those tolerances.

Yep, that's what I want.

What the hell does 1.58* even mean? Talk about new math. 17.12 is 79.26% of 21.60 which is almost there to me.

LOL, well Budd, I'm not going down this road with you again. I will just take this as a reminder and let it drop.