It means you have 50, 601 miles on the truck. Diagnostic codes start with a
letter (usually 'P') follows by four digits. Check your codes again.
By the way - you are cycling the ignition key three times, and not messing
with the trip reset button, right?
That's a UART code - means something was wrong with the OBD-II interface
itself. Something's screwy... did it read 'Pdone' when it was finished?
There has to be at least one 'Pxxxx' code to set the check engine light off.
It sounds like you're not cycling the key correctly. The 'ON' position is
the position just before the starter engages - where all the instrument
lights come on. The 'OFF' position is one position back from that - where
the lights turn off. You should cycle the ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, within
2-3 seconds, leaving the key in the final 'ON' position. You should be able
to get a code reading every time by doing this.
A funny thing, though, about how the check engine light first came on:
I was driving on a road alone, no other cars around, and saw the drawbridge
was up. I coasted down, shifted into neutral, let it roll to a stop at the
bridge, and cut the engine.
Ten seconds or so later I notice the engine was still running, so I turned
the key (apparently) the rest of the way off. The engine turned off.
Perhaps I didn't rotate the key quite far enough.
After drawbridge came back down and the barriers lifted, I cranked it up to
go -- and the check engine light was on.
I'm really kind of thinking that the check engine light is just an oddity
caused in some way by that improper shutdown, or whatever.... Perhaps
ignition was cut for a split second, and threw a fault code due to
interrupted signal from a sensor or something....
The check engine light stayed on the rest of the day (Friday) and the
vehicle was not used this weekend. The check engine light did not come on
today (other than the normal quick bulb test). The vehicle has run just
fine the entire time.
Absolutely, Tom, and you were dead-on with the ignition key -- far more than
I never saw a P code -- just the U1120 followed thereafter by a row of
dashes, I think?
Anyway the diagnostics showed a loss of power to half a dozens sensors
throughout the vehicle. Remember, somehow in the initial shutdown when I
turned the engine off at that drawbridge to wait a while, and then
discovered the engine was still running? Apparently the ignition switch was
in some half-run position.
They should consider changing the ignition switch to a system similar to
what computers use nowadays. The power switch on OLD home PC's used to turn
off the power supply, but nowadays it tells the computer's motherboard to
initiate a shutdown. The motherboard and operating system do whatever they
need to do to shut down the system, and then tells the power supply to power
They also kindly informed me that, at 20K miles, I need to get that rear
axle oil changed!
Every 15,000 miles! In an '05 Durango with factory synthetic axle fill. A
vehicle that never tows and just idles along back and forth to work around
50mph every day. They're just wanting me to do the severe-service
maintenance interval, of course.
There's not even a fluid change specified at all on the standard change
interval in the manual, which surprised me -- not even at 100K or 150K
miles. I'd be uncomfortable waiting past 100K miles, though.
Yeah - that happened with the switch to the AAM axles. Frankly, I think
it's AAM selling DC a bag of manure, and they're just passing it along to
No way does an axle needs it's fluid changed every 15,000 miles - when we
were doing 50,000 miles on Dana axles.
I've been changing my axle fluids at 30,000 - only because it's easy enough
to do, and it lets me use my drain plugs in my aftermarket diff covers :)
50,000 miles? If so, I'm 35,000 miles overdue on my Dana 60 - Spicer 70
combo. Something to do my next weekend off. It's also time to adjust the
bands on the 47RE, change the coolant, and do an oil & filter and fuel
filter change. While I'm at it I suppose I should grease the suspension
again out too. Good thing I don't have an ignition system to tune-up too.
I don't understand the absurdly high prices shops charge for
differential service. They claim its because it requires special oil
for the limited slip etc. which is BS for that kind of cost. Labor wise
its less than changing the engine oil.
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