82 W150 no spark

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Well, it's been a loooong time since I've been at this group! Of course, I need some help.
82 W150, 318 2bbl, no lean burn. No spark. I have voltage at both +/-
at the coil, pull the coil wire of the distrib and hold near ground and still no spark. Replaced coil (2 different ones!) and coil wire...still no spark. Also replaced ballast resister and ECU (I always carry spares). I even ran a jumper straight from the ballast resister to the coil + (thnking a bad wire) and still nothing.
I am going nuts! How can I have no spark when there is voltage at both terminals of the coil? PLEASE...any ideas??
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If this is the standard Mopar electronic IGN system, check three things.
Ballast resister: You should have .5 ohm resistance on one side, 5.0 on the other, wires disconnected.
Harness to the ECU (five pin connector with phillips screw) must be disconnected while ign is OFF.
Pickup coil: resistance across this should be 150-900 ohm, measured at cavity 4 and 5 in the harness connecting to the ECU, 1 being in the pointed end. If it fails, repeat test at distributor connection, if its good, suspect wiring, if bad, replace. Air gap is set using a brass or plastic feeler (NO steel) to .008".
2 3 1 4 5
ECU Harness: IGN ON....Cavity 1, 2, and 3 should show battery voltage +/- 1 volt.
Check ECU ground by finding no resistance to ground on number five pin, 1 is in the pointed end. A no ground condition when ground is known to be good indicates ECU failure.
3 2 1 5 4
Tips:
A bad ballast resister can cause a crank but no start conditon, and cost very little. ALWAYS carry a spare in the glove box as insurance.
A pickup coil can do this, and it may also cause a hard start when engine is warm. NEVER use a steel feeler to set airgap, as it magnetizes the reluctor, causing a no start condition. Brass feelers are available from KD tools, among others, sold in bubble packs at auto parts stores.
The ECU is usually not the cause, unless it fails to ground. Check ground by making sure bare metal is on both the case and the mounting point on the truck. An ECU cost around $25 IIRC, and is also cheap insurance.
Biggest tip: If you don't already, get a cheap but decent multimeter, they are indespensible.
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Max

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Hey Max--Nice to see you're still around... Appreciate the response, results of your tests below.
Max Dodge wrote:

One sided version, OK, just replaced anyway.

259 ohms

12.6V at 1 & 2, I have no pin 3 (mine's the 4 pin ECU)

No continuity between pin 5 and ground. This is with my "spare" ECU.
I have voltage at both +/- of the ignition coil. How can I get no spark? Even taking the distrib out of the pic and holding the coil wire near ground, I still get bo spark.
The truck ran fine last weekend. Parked it, and it sat untouched for a week. Now I have this. Strange...
Keep the ideas comin'!
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Hey Max--Nice to see you're still around... Appreciate the response, results of your tests below.
Max Dodge wrote:

One sided version, OK, just replaced anyway.

259 ohms

12.6V at 1 & 2, I have no pin 3 (mine's the 4 pin ECU)

No continuity between pin 5 and ground. This is with my "spare" ECU.
I have voltage at both +/- of the ignition coil. How can I get no spark? Even taking the distrib out of the pic and holding the coil wire near ground, I still get bo spark.
The truck ran fine last weekend. Parked it, and it sat untouched for a week. Now I have this. Strange...
Keep the ideas comin'!
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Ok, I see you have:

You MUST have continuity here. No ground here and the system does not work. One of two things cause this, bad ECU, or bad ground. On an 1982 truck that sat a week, its possible rust has broken the ground connection. Not sure what you mean by "spare", but the one on the truck running the system must be grounded.
The only other possibility is wiring being broken somewhere. I have a 1975 FSM, which shows the typical Chrysler electronic ignition system, but if you find a 1982 FSM, that would be better. Then you can check all circuits for continuity using the factory wiring diagram.
However, if I had to guess, I bet the ground is not working due to rust.
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Easy enuf to run a jumper from the ECU body to the -bat terminal...will try that in the AM. THANKS.
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Even easier to pop it off the firewall (or where ever) and clean the rust from both surfaces.
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You don't need to connect it to the ECU, the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to.
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"CordobaMan" < snipped-for-privacy@surfy.net> wrote in message
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If you are trying to ground the ECU, as he is in this case (yeah, a wire from the ECU body to negative on the battery grounds the ECU) connecting the ECU body to the negitive side of the coil would probably really screw up the ECU if it wasn't grounded.
If he were trying to ground the coil with this method, it would be obvious why the truck never started, and might kill the coil.
What you suggest is a bad idea.
But, you know these systems so well, I'll just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more.
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just
the
the
Since he didn't include the text he was referring to, I took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so, connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. If he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ECU to ground, then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice.

If he was referring to my previous post, it will cause no harm to the coil and if he simply grounded it that way, then as you said, it would not start.

Once again, you speak without actually knowing what it was about.

LOL, PKB. If what I'm saying is BS, prove it.
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If you read the thread, you would have had context on what he was saying, AND my answer to him.

Well, since I didn't advise him to use any sort of jumper wire, this would be more ASSuption on your part.

Says the one who is about a day behind the rest of us and hasn't been reading everything he wants to reply to.

YOU claimed that the coil negative would not have 12v unless grounded. But the FSM clearly states that cavity 2 on the ECU connector will have 12v, and the connector IS the ground for the coil. As such, if its disconnected for the test, and you find 12v as specified, YOUR claim that the coil negative would only have 12v when grounded is BULLSHIT.
Go on blabbering, we all know you will.
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Sorry to burst your bubble Maxi, but he was replying to both of us.

Well, if you didn't mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one, it appears that he was talking to me.

and
I never said that as it would be impossible. I said that the coil had 12V on the negative side because it was NOT grounded. Learn how to read there Maxi-boy.

Likewise. Care to dig yourself in a little deeper.
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Doesn't matter to whom he replied. You still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up, and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part.

Doesn't matter to whom he replied. You still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up, and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part.

The ony thing getting deep in here is your bullshit.
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saying,
part.
No, I didn't. You just don't understand electrical systems at all. BTW, I didn't come up with the jumper wire, that was another poster. I just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. Funny how you didn't say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. Why is that Max????

response
part.
It most certainly does and you know it and I got nothing screwed up. You just don't like to be made the fool, especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say, you are just mad, LOL!

My bullshit, LOL. I just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the FSM and missing key steps as well. You should really stick to transmissions because you really don't know shit about electrical systems.
--
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At least not in your mind, but out here in reality, you give bad advice all the time.

LOL, what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil won't show voltage all the time.

Because Nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground, not the ECU. What he suggested is common practice. What you suggested is foolish.

Ok, if it matters who he replied to, you'll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. The thread history doesn't lie, unlike you.

My repeat statements are because there simply isn't anything new in most of your drivel. As such, the same reply works well and saves keyboard time.

Care to prove I misquoted from the FSM? If you don't post pics of the exact sections of the FSM that you think I misquoted, you are lying AGAIN. Meantime, I have my 1975 FSM sitting right here. Once you post pics of where I'm full of shit, I'll be glad to post pics of exactly what I said.
Meantime, you go ahead and spin your lies.
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all
There really is a big difference between reality and Maxworld.

side
Because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that say's any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero.

with
ECU.
LOL, now look at who is lying. Please indicate exactly where I ever said to ground the ECU. Once again you Alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass.

But you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours?

of
You call it drivel, others call it truth, especially in this thread.

from
exact
I don't have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the FSM procedure actually is.

where
But you didn't quote it completely which indicates that you really didn't understand what it was trying to do.

The only lies are the ones you created in your imagination.
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I don't see any pics as proof yet.
Have a nice day.
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Max

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I don't see any pics as proof yet.
Have a nice day.
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Max

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I gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide, probably because you didn't understand what the FSM was telling you to do. I also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and I know that I never will.
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"Max Dodge" < snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net> wrote in message
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You claimed that I did not provide the correct procedure. Please provide pictures of the FSM where it contradicts what I said.
No pics, no proof.
More lies.
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