Battery question.....

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Was buying the wound cell batteries (Optima red top's) for my race cars. After two early deaths, I'm back to regular batteries. At least they don't cost $120 each. The problem I have is if they go completely dead, they don't want to come back. Look on their web site, they have some tips for bringing them back. Didn't work for me.
Al
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Carolina Watercraft Works wrote:

Some years ago, Consumer Reports did a comparison of several batteries. At the that time, Interstate rated #1, with $ears DieHard rating #2. Exide was at the bottom. In the past 10 years, I've been buying Interstate and have had no complaints. I use a pair of their "Workaholic" group 27 units in my '77 D200. I understand they *used to* make batteries for $ears. Bryan
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Here is the math: 55AH battery. A high quality battery decays at about 15-20% per year in available (AH) Amp hours. You need about 20% of initial AH left to start truck, if it starts quickly. Flasher/stop/turn bulbs are 25 watts each while parking lights are 3 watts each. Say you have two bulbs in front and 2 each on each rear light assembly for a total of 6 bulbs flashing. 25x60 watts 150 watts/12 volts.5 amps when they are lit. If they are only lit 50% of the time then you have an average of 6.25 amps. Now assuming you did NOT leave the ignition on or the parking lights on and the battery is fully charged and battery is only a year old. 55AHx80%Dah Need 20% to start ah So you have 33AH left 33ah/6.25a = 5.3 hours till it will not start truck.
Since you said you have replaced the battery twice lately either your alternator is not furnishing enough current or the battery voltage during charge is too low to fully charge the battery or you have a high constant drain of something left on discharging the battery.
Check the battery drain current with everything off it should be less than 0.030 amps. The battery voltage during charge should be 13.8 to 14.1 Volts at 70F with the voltage increasing at 0.020 volts per F degree below 70F. Check the alternator output under load. Something is wrong besides the battery. John F
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 02:33:56 -0500, "Carolina Watercraft Works"

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That's kind of what I figured as well.
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Laszlo Almasi
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Ok, stopped to get my haircut today...friend stayed in truck listening to radio. 25 minutes...completely dead battery. Push it to start, make one quick 5 minute start and left motor running then completed the 15 minute trip home. Got the charger and set to 40 amps and charger read full and shut off. Set to 20 amps and charging commenced and continued. WTF is going on?
I'm always bragging about my Ram and it never giving me problems....still will but I need to figure this out. Plan on getting that power cable recall done next week.
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the simple answer to your question is not long.
hazard flashers flash a total of 6 bulbs on the average vehicle. 2 front high intensity bulbs 2 rear high intensity bulbs and 2 side markers (found on most trucks on the side near the headlights I list these as I don't recall if the BR/BE has them or not)
I can tell you from experience that when doing a alignment (you lock the brake pedal down) that the brake lights (just 2 of the 4 high intensity bulbs) it will very quickly, in about an hour or so in some cases, totally drain the battery.
personally even in a gasser if I'm on the side of the road and have the hazards flashing the truck is in park, E-Brake on and idling. this was especially true when I was on the FD and had a light bar running.
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Yup, some of those light bar's will wipe a set of batteries like nothing else. I almost got screwed a few years ago with a bar and have used strobes since.
Roy

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even a set of strobes is a lot of draw but not near like rotators.
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-Chris
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That's why a lot of law enforcement agencies are going to LED systems. Even out here in little ol' Moab.
Sheriff Dept. just got 2 Hemi Charger pursuit units with LED light bars, State troopers are jealous ... they're still driving Fords.
Budd

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