Just wanted to give a quick update on my experiences so far using
"BioWillie" bio-diesel. I think it's important that we keep sharing
our experiences on this subject, good and bad, since many of us (in the
U.S.) will see this alternative fuel become more common.
I filled up with B20 and have driven a few hundred miles now. As
others have experienced, my engine seems to be a little quieter than it
was. I have not noticed any power loss, but I'm not sure that I would
notice it since I drive like an old man. :-)
#2 BioWillie was 2.599 per gallon. Regular #2 diesel was 2.799.
(North Dallas, Texas).
I have noticed a "sharper" odor from the exhaust. I don't know how
else to explain the smell. The source of the oil used to make
biodiesel will alter the odor. I have read that "BioWillie" is made
from soy bean oil.
No complaints thus far.
According to the "BioWillie" web site
"Biodiesel has a higher gel point. 100% Biodiesel, referred to as
B100, gets slushy at 32?F. A blend of 20% Biodiesel, 80% regular
diesel, B20, has a gel point of 7?F. Like regular diesel, the gel point
can be lowered further with additives such as kerosene, which are
blended into winter diesel in cold-weather areas."
If pro and con are opposite, what is the opposite of progress?
I was discussing B/D with my stepfather and he mentioned that
he understood the B/D (100%) did not offer the same lubrication
levels as regular diesel. The reason I have been looking into this is
because I plan on a diesel for my next truck and plan on making
my own...possibly running 100% B/D.
I make and burn my own biodiesel. You are right about the lubrication
levels, it isn't the same as petro diesel. Biodiesel has better
lubrication. Before you buy any equipment let me know. I'll clue you in
to the good deals and what to avoid. If you want to research it on your
own, http://biodiesel.infopop.cc is a great place to start.
7 degrees then you have to start adding stuff. I'm a little hesitant at
first look. I think I might wait a bit, I changed frozen filters before and
it really sucks.
Informative site though, thanks for posting the link.
Back in another life, we used to put an "additive" in semi's to prevent jelling
and algae.... not needed/used any more?
Not like it was years ago. Now there is a "winter fuel" that we see here
around mid oct. It is supposedly good for below zero I don't know for sure
how cold you can run it without a additive. The algae, I've seen once in the
past 10 years in a loco that sat for about 10 months. I remember 30 years
ago watching as they poured a 55gal drum of alchol into a loco fuel tank to
Don't believe it. You need a good additive. I run a VW Jetta TDI (diesel)
and have used B-20, B-5 and straight D-2. Over on TDIClub.com everyone puts
an additive in the diesel fuel to prevent gelling and for lubrication. Some
additives even raise the cetane rating. Winter diesel fuel blends do help
some with gelling but it may not be enough depending on temperature and
where you travel. Bottom line - you need a good additive regardless of the
diesel fuel, and if running biodiesel in cold weather you need it more and
sooner. Unless, of course you don't mind a vehicle that doesn't start or
having to replace your fuel filters that get "frozen" or gel up.
On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 18:13:29 +0000, Craig C. wrote:
I've been running homemade B20 in a 12 valve Cummins - it's quieter by
maybe 20% and has the same power and mileage. The truck is being pretty
much rebuilt right now. When all the mechanicals are addressed, it'll be
converted to run on straight waste oil (SVO).
The family is running homemade B100 in a Massey Ferguson farm tractor and
an '82 Mercedes 300D.
On Sat, 23 Sep 2006 10:26:49 -0400, Chris Thompson wrote:
You hear different things from different people and groups. I think it'll
be ok as long as the SVO is preheated to 180-200F. The engine will be
started and brought up to temp on B100 (+ electric heaters). Most likely
mix in some octane boost-cleaner every now and then.
The reason for SVO is simple economics. I can filter WVO and throw it in
the tank in the bed of the pickup. BioD requires filtering, lye/methanol
mix, a mixing reactor, washing tank, drying tank, storage tank and lots of
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