Boiling a battery

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in
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I think that you should stick to these types of posts. At least here you just look childish instead of both childish and ignorant.
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Really???? All of the batteries that I own are 5 years. Where do you buy yours?
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< snipped-for-privacy@sny.der.on.ca> wrote in message
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TBone wrote:

Try living in Arizona. 115 degree summers kills em. Mines 4 years old which is a rarity here. 3 is average.
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Jeez Miles, you KNOW he's gonna whine about that info, right?
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yea, well that is abusive heat and I would expect a premature failure. I was referring to the rating of the battery and all of mine claim 5 years but then again, I don't buy the cheap batteries.
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"miles" < snipped-for-privacy@nopers.com> wrote in message
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So sitting next to engine exhaust is what kind of heat? I mean, its only about 200F under the hood, right?
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I
And you think that temperature will not be at least 50 degrees hotter under the hood in 115 degree temps?
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200, 250, makes little difference to a battery, really. Both are higher than optimum for a battery. Thus, 3 years avg is logical, despite your blustering.
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Max Dodge wrote:

Batteries do wear out faster in say Phoenix than in Los Angeles. Storing a battery in 115 degree weather vs. 75 will make a difference.
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No doubt, but stuffing it under the hood of a car where temps hit 200+, its really no difference if its 200, 250, or 300 under there, all are above the best temp to store a battery.
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Max Dodge wrote:

How hot is the battery when the engine isn't even running? Storage temp is critical to a battery life.
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wrote:

So you mean they are 60 month rated batteries, right?? How old are they? I've had scads of "lifetime" batteries last exactly that long - the "lifetime" of the battery - which was between 6 weeks and 3 years. NEVER had a lifetime guaranteed battery - Die-Hard, Canadian Tire, or whatever, last 3 years without warranty replacement. Half the time you are cheaper to buy a new battery outright than to pay the "pro rata" replacement cost of a battery over one or two years old (in the case of fixed length battery warranties.)
I don't buy cheap batteries either. Sometimes I get lucky and get inexpensive batteries.
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Up here in Southern Ontario, with 90 degree F summers, underhood temps, even without running the engine, routinely reach 140. Yes, heat kills batteries. So does 0 degree F cold!!! You know what happens when you get both.
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wrote:

The INDUSTRY STANDARD AVERAGE LIFESAPAN is under 3 years. I have had many go well over that - but I usually overspec my batteries, so even at half capacity I still get by. The battery I replaced in my TransSport last year was less than 2 years old and would start the vehicle just fine under normal conditions - but OCCAISIONALLY was just plain dead. Fifteen minutes later it MIGHT just decide to start the van. That is the ONLY battery I have ever seen fool a Midtronics tester. I checked it, and it said bad - so I had the battery guy check it - and it passed.He said I had a bad battery connection. Less than an hour later the truck would not start - and it showed bad again. Battery was replaced under Warrranty.No problems since. Except when I left my 200+ma load connected for 2 weeks while I flew off to Alaska for holidays. With better than 84 amp hours of power pulled from the battery it wasn't going ANYWHERE when my daughter went to start it to pick me up from the airport. Quick recharge, and good as new.
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"Max Dodge" < snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net> wrote in message
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wrote:

Hey T-Bone - you show me where I am wrong.
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I wasn't talking about you. I was talking about Max and Gary but as far as being wrong goes, if you are checking for an over charge condition, you DO NOT have to measure only on the terminals of the battery and even your own examples prove that.
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You have to take into account that your problem may be intermittent. Just because the regulator behaves normally while on the bench or while idling in the driveway doesn't mean that it or it's wiring is ok. You will need to keep a voltmeter connected in the car with you for a while to monitor it. If it has a peak hold capability, that would be best but otherwise, you will need to keep it in a place where you can see it without taking you eyes off of the road any more than you would to look at any other gauge. Another thing to think of is that it is not voltage that causes a battery to vent and spit fluid, it is current and high current can flow on both sides such as bad turns in the starter. I would probably look at the sense wire for the regulator and make sure that it is in-tact and has a good solid connection to whatever power source it is tapping from. A bad wire or connection here can cause your problems for sure.
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"nirodac" < snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Good point about that intermittent, a bad sense point for example on the regulator, say when it heats up, could definitely cause the overcharge problem. And for the record, I measured the battery voltage at the positive terminal of the battery, and at the regulator plug, with reference to chassis ground, maybe I should have used engine ground, technically they are the same.
The "sense" lead runs through 2 fuses (both good) from the battery.
I'll have to hunt around for a peak hold volt meter Are you suggesting that an over current drawing, starter motor could also cause the battery to spit?
Thanks T bone for the helpful comments.

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