Carburetor EGR port question

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Simpson wrote:


I can assure you I haven't given much thought to your posting methods. I did ask a couple of questions and have made some suggestions.....
    

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jim wrote:

You can go crawl back into your hole, jim. You've expended your good will.
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Mike Romain wrote:

> > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build > Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Mike,
I just popped the top off the carb and removed the boost venturi to get at the area around the throttle plates. The barrel that has the designated EGR port has a perforation just above the closed throttle plate just as I expected. When I attach a hose to the designated EGR port I can blow air through the perforation. When I plug up the perforation inside the venturi with my finger, the air flow stops. This is the case with the other barrel that has the designated spark vacuum port. The only difference between the two seems to be the relative size of the venturi perforations, the EGR side being slightly smaller and the height relative to the closed throttle plate.
three hours later... I just got back from ripping the carb out of its moorings and teraing it down and comparing it with the old original. Same body - different porting. I cut a new slot for the EGR port and widened the holes that feed the canister purge line into the the venturi just above the throttle plates, both mods to conform to the original.
The new carb also differed from the original through a hole in the gasket that connects the throttle body to the main body. This hole in the gasket on the new carb connected the EGR hole in the throttle body just above the throttle plate in one barrel to a hole in the base of the venturi. The original carb did not have this hole in the gasket or the hole in the base of the venturi, so I flipped the gasket to put the hole on the other side where nothing is happening and the hole is not connecting anything to anything.
I am about to go out now and take it for a test drive to see what happens after it warms up and the EGR circuit kicks in. I have a vacuum meter teed into the vacuum line to the EGR valve so I should be able to see if the mod works like the original. If not, I will negate that particular mod in some fashion and go back to running the EGR valve from the park vacuum port, which is what got me passed smog.
It's a frikken obsession, but I bought this truck new and I refuse to let it die for want of a replacement mixture control solenoid.
Thanks Chrysler.
Thanks Holley.
Way to stand behind your products.
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Simpson wrote:

When we mod our Jeeps to take out the feedback carb, we can run the ignition module or even a replacement stand alone distributor or ignition replacement without the rest of the smog computer controls.
The reason is or 'ford' emissions control box goes into 'limp home' mode basically clamping down on the timing advance.
When we wire our ignition control modules directly to the distributor in whatever form, we bypass this, our timing jumps about 15 deg and has to be reset and we get a sweet 'seat of the pants' 25% boost in power.
We can have 'fun' with the new vacuum line layouts as well.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
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Mike Romain wrote:

Good point, Mike. There is a 'open loop' mode that this computer may default to if it senses a value outside of its programmed parameters. This computer controls spark advance timing and fuel mixture, but now that the carb no longer has a mixture control solenoid, that aspect of control is gone and only the spark timing is left.
Your post raises an important point for me. I have the code reader for this beast. It's almost prehistoric but it works great. I got it used on eBay because good luck trying to find one new. When I had the old original feedback carb installed, the mixture control solenoid would get stuck. At one point, I screwed down the allen screw on top of the solenoid to close the auxiliary main jet and the auxiliary air bleed in an attempt to convert the feedback carb into a convention carb. Even with the solenoid modified so that the electrical pulses to it were doing nothing, the computer failed to set any codes. I would have expected a code set for the the O2 sensor perhaps because it was no longer controlling the fuel mix, but the computer seemed not to mind. When I disconnected the wires to the feedback solenoid, however the computer set a code for it.
Getting back to the 'limp-home mode' question. The only thing that the computer now controls is the spark advance. The service manual spells out the procedure for testing the spark advance at 2000rpm. After setup, it says that I should be reading 38 degrees plus or minus 4. The only trouble is, how will I read 38 degrees I don't have a magnetic timing unit, which I assume will allow one to read that far off the scale used with a timing light, which only goes plus and minus 10 degrees from TDC.
I guess I can wire the failed solenoid the computer. The windings are still good. This way the computer will still read it as working and, if the computer is working okay, the advance timing should working okay. If I read the service manual correctly, there are only two spark advance curves, one for cold and one for warmed up. I had a problem with the coolant temperature sensor recently that caused the vehicle to only operate in cold mode which was too retarded. Gas mileage sucked until I discovered the problem. If there are only two modes I should be able to tell if the computer is ignoring the absence of the mixture solenoid and continuing to use the warmed up spark advance curve.

How does the situation you are describing dealing with spark advance? Is this controlled by the 'ignition control modules' you mentioned?

Sounds like a real party :-)

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supports McCain.
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Simpson wrote: The only

The newer timing lights have a digital display that gives the advance also

Yes, you can get stand alone distributors and/or ignition modules to put in so your timing works like the pre-computer engine does.
Someone on AADT should know what ones plug in or what junkyard swaps are easy?

I have the PCV and canister (gas tank and carb float vent) hooked up, the EGR, the distributor advance and the air filter flaps all properly plumbed for a manual tune. I am set up to pass emissions with my feedback carb manually set.
I got on one ASM 2525 test, 589 NOx, 16 ppm HC and 0.11% CO and my 1986 CJ7 'Utility Vehicle' doesn't have nor need a Cat up here in Canada...

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Quite easily.
Hand turn the engine until the #1 TDC timing mark on the balancer is aligned with the minus 10 mark on the front cover scale. Make a mark (sharpie) on the balancer adjacent to the plus 10 timing mark on the front cover scale. Hand turn the engine again until your new balancer mark aligns with the minus 10 mark on the front cover timing scale. Make another new mark (sharpie) on the balancer adjacent to the plus 10 mark on the front cover scale. Take a knife edged file and make this last mark more permanent.
You've just marked your balancer 40 degrees advanced from the TDC mark. The 2 degrees error you can work out easy enough.
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aarcuda69062 wrote:

Some times the simplest solution is the hardest to see.
Thanks for all your help and patience.
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