Chrysler Royal, M6 transmission, fluid drive

Page 5 of 7  


I too was thinking the same thing. Then you don't risk damaging a more difficult to replace part, too...
I'd probably chuck it up in my small lathe and use the lathe to spin it while dressing it down with the crocus cloth, checking frequently until it is close. I would try it at .002 to see if it could be done, then at .001 if necessary, not try to go down to exact size in one step.
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wrote:

Gotta admit, I laughed at this post... Mostly because you're asking advice on a car that is likely older than the parts guy! (And assuming that the part(s) are right, too...)

Yea, usually things are worn, and you have to shim them, not ream... I wonder if there were multiple sizes to handle manufacturing tollerences? Machining in that era was not nearly as good as it is on today's cars.
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That's a thought. Perhaps there are bushings avaiable of a lightly smaller size.
Here's another thought before you go much further. Have you tried to fit the new king pin through the bushing? Sorta wonder what you have with these different parts from different places.
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Took a break from the frustration for a couple weeks.. Finally was inspired to continue the other day. I found a way to chuck the bushing into my drill and used running water and emery cloth to dress the bushing down. I have the bushings installed.. now I am honing the insides of the bushings. The lower bushing has a split down the height of it, and it pinched together and took a bit of clearance away when installed. No worries though, I was thinking it was going to be sloppy until I realized what happened. Fortunately my brake cylinder hone just barely fit in the bore..
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wrote in message>

Took a break from the frustration for a couple weeks.. Finally was inspired to continue the other day. I found a way to chuck the bushing into my drill and used running water and emery cloth to dress the bushing down. I have the bushings installed.. now I am honing the insides of the bushings. The lower bushing has a split down the height of it, and it pinched together and took a bit of clearance away when installed. No worries though, I was thinking it was going to be sloppy until I realized what happened. Fortunately my brake cylinder hone just barely fit in the bore..
Ain't it nice when things come together.<G>
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yes, it definitely is nice to make some progress... however, i have already hit the next snare.. :D
There is a bearing that the control arm sits upon on the lower part of the steering knuckle which bears the weight of the front end. To take out the up and down play, they so graciously included a .006 shim washer.. too bad the new bearing is .008 shorter than the old, worn- out bearing.. the old bearing had two shims which came out to be a bit less than .008 together (but they look hammered). I put the new shim in (actually I put both that were included in the package) and still have at least .020 up and down. I'm no rocket scientist, but to me it seems like this bearing is going to get the dogdoo beaten out of it if I don't shim it to within .001 - .002 of endplay..
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D'oh! Forgot to ask my question:
Does anyone have any ideas about finding shim washers in various thicknesses? near as I can measure, the measurements are 1.393" OD, .811" ID
Weird measurements
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You might want to check out a heavy equipment parts outfit. Maybe a CAT dealer?
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Ok great idea! The nearest CAT place is a ways away, but there *is* a John Deere dealer here in town, I will definitely go in there and see if they can help!
Thanks Roy!
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ok, i finally was able to get around to going to the john deere place. They had a nice shelf full of shims, but none the right size. I settled on two that are way too thick and too small ID.. they were .50 each, so i figured it would be better to try to make them work instead of having nothing to try.. fortunately, the ID is only about .010 smaller, so i shouldn't have to spend too much time hogging it out..
i went to NAPA and I bet if they really knew their stuff, they might have pulled out a book and found the parts, but they were so damned sure that they wouldn't be able to get something like this, they didn't *NEED* to pull out the book.
I didn't even bother with anywhere else.. lol
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I brought the shims from the tractor place to a machine shop and they are going to machine the ID and surface the shim to the proper thickness...
I have to wait until wednesday to get them back.. Hopefully they will be somewhat close to what I need when I get them back.
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Well, finally called the machine shop about my shims. The ticket says "cash" so they must've lost my phone number.
Anyway, they fit perfectly. I had them machined to the same ID as the other shim I already had and needed a thickness of .042 to take up the gap. Apparently, something was left out a long time ago..
Hopefully now I won't discover that more of the suspension needs to be replaced. I'd like to try it out for now..
Cost $48 to have two 50 cent washers machined to the proper dimension. Crazy.
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Crazy yes. But ya gotta have them. The fella had to pay for his machine.
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Yep, that's why I asked him up front what his labor charge was per hour. I understand he has to stay in business. I didn't balk when they told me the price.. I'm just glad it wasn't more. And I have to say, they met my dimensions perfectly.
It's time for me to find my own machine tools... :D
I installed the driver's side spindle this afternoon. The kingpin endcaps the sorry parts place sent me for the kingpins aren't even close to the correct dimension. I'm thinking of cutting some shim brass to fit the hole, making it concave-ish, then using those to cap the top ends. I think I will be able to re-use the bottom caps.. (the caps look like knockout plugs from a breaker panel box)
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Well, I finally rounded up what hopefully will be the last of the front-end parts for a few miles at least.. The parts place from which I have been buying parts didn't have any "idler/pitman arm" repair kits in stock. I thought all was lost, because the sumgun was super sloppy and the seals were way beyond shot (the greasy felt-type seal.. only half of one was left).
I just decided to take it apart and see if I could identify the bearings. Sure enough, they are tapered roller bearings.. Timken A4059 (bearing) and Timken A4138 (race). The local auto parts store had to order them, but I was able to get them. They are not "National" bearings instead of Timken. For the seals, I am going to use o-rings on the top and bottom. Hopefully that won't be a mistake! :D I don't think wally world has the right quality felt for making seals..
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Just a thought on the "O" ring's. Some may not be compatible with the grease and deteriate quickly. I'm of the belief that those felt seals maybe around. But if your in a hurry............
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not really in a hurry... lol.. I would like to get this done before the "rainy season" gets here though.. the car has been sitting outside for a few months now
I didn't think about the reaction of the rubber to the grease.. I'm sure the seals are out there, but I have no idea where to look for them.. the only thing I can think of that is close, but would have to but cut out, are those red and green felt jobs that go on the battery posts..
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wrote in message

O Rings made out of rubber for hyraulic cylinders should be OK as they are designed to work at high pressure and in contact with "oils". Felt rings - what about the 50 pack blank CD 'Beehives' they usually have 3-4 felt rings in them - about 14 mm inside hole diamer and 40 mm outside diameter
Neville in sunny Queensland Australia.
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that's a great thought, but all i've seen are styrofoam and plastic ones!
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wrote:

If the seals are configured like I suspect, won't greasing the assembly pop them out? Can't you make something like the original 'felt' seals instead...
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