Chrysler Royal, M6 transmission, fluid drive

Page 7 of 7  
wrote:


I understand your worries..
Believe me, if money was no object, i would do all the proper things that need to be done.
When you say I should have the crank fitted, what do you mean? Have the main bearings align honed to fit the "replacement" crank and have the crank installed profesionally?
Yup, I'd have the block and caps done to assure it is right, then whatever crank you use have it fitted to the block and caps. Or if your real good with plasti-gage(sp) have at it.
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well, the first engine i rebuilt myself, i plastigaged all the bearings as i put it back together... they were within spec... it is the 20R engine in my '79 Toyota Celica... had 200,000 miles on it when i tore it down... now the engine has 60,000 miles on it since I rebuilt it in 2003 and it still gets around 30mpg...
how's that sound?
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wrote:

well, the first engine i rebuilt myself, i plastigaged all the bearings as i put it back together... they were within spec... it is the 20R engine in my '79 Toyota Celica... had 200,000 miles on it when i tore it down... now the engine has 60,000 miles on it since I rebuilt it in 2003 and it still gets around 30mpg...
how's that sound?
Sounds like you used plastigage on your bearings.<G>
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ok ... lol! I thought I was missing something..
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wrote:

Sounds good! <g> Now, for me, considering the engine in question is not really a high performance engine, I don't see a lot of reason to go overboard--
Just confirm the crank is straight, the mains (without caps) have the same clearance, and plastigage the bearings and you should do just fine.
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i'm about to order a set of new main and rod bearings... probably will wait until after the click of the new year so they don't get lost or whatever.. i will post the findings when i get the new new bearings..
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