coil question

Page 1 of 2  
Hi guys,
I was wondering what would happen if the coil was installed the wrong way (both wires going in are black, same guage (not pink and black-w-stripe as haynes says) -- would it start? Would it die after a
block even when warmed up properly?
How about if the .33 microfarrad capacitor were hooked up to the wrong poll (+ve) or not hooked up at all?
My dodge ram is such a farmer's special and haynes doesn't come even close on any of the diagrams for various years.
thank you for any help you may be able to provide
rach
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

As long as there isn't a diode in the primary coil it dosen't care which way the current flows through it. The coil doesn't care what color the wire is either. Its just a high voltage transformer. They can go bad when warm and then work when cold. Its and expansion/contraction thing. . >

Caps usually are just there to absorb voltage spikes. They let ac pass and block dc. They also eliminate noise in the radio etc.

Electrical gremlins are the hardest problems to solve. Mainly because you just can see them.
beekeep
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
beekeep wrote:

thank you for answering so quickly -- that's good news, i don't need to switch things around and try again
The coil doesn't care what color the wire is either.
LOL! good one -- I like that :-)

It's brand new

ok thanks -- i can eliminate that too

mine is a full grown possessed ... i don't know what but it was probably an ass in its former life
Mainly because you just

i can see it on the curb down the road :-(

rach
i am going to make a list of everything changed on it in the next day and run it by everyone
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Do the two wires go to the distributor from the coil? If so, then they are to the pickup coil in the distributor. Then it's just a matter of tracing the wires down to the ECU and the ballast. It sounds to me like the previous owner was not a mechanic. If you can, scrounge an ignition harness from a truck in a wrecking yard.
The polarity normally doesn't matter on most capacitors but the RF suppression capacitor is supposed to be connected with the lead wire to the negative coil terminal and the case grounded to the engine. However, if you don't have any radios in the vehicle, why use it?
--
Budd Cochran

"Rachel Easson" < snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

So you don'r annoy the guy next tp you when sitting at a light.
beekeep

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload


Now, come on . . .don't you miss the "good ol' days" when Ford refused to use any kind of suppression unless it was in the radio? (40's-50's) Which was why they used Ford Philco radios?
Besides, here in Moab anyway, most of those radios are playing so loud the occupants couldn't hear spark noise for their own . . . . .music volume.
The engine probably already has resistor ( radio suppression) plug wires on resistor ( radio suppression) plugs . . .so how much more suppression do you need?
Personally, imho and experience, you don't need both resistor plugs and wires to hold down interference. My D-150, until my son, Scott, replaced the plug wires was running stranded core wires, yep, genuine copper stranded wire on resistor plugs (Champion RN-14Y) and neither the radio in the truck, nor any in the house, nor any of my neighbors had any RF interference from it.
And it ran great.
Budd
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sorry Budd but my first car was a '64. I Nevever drove anything from the 40s or 50s. 'Wasn't born until 52.
beekeep
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:25:29 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@radix.net (beekeep) wrote:

pick bunny with massive fire power!
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"pick" bunny or "pick a bunny"????
--
Budd Cochran

"mac davis" < snipped-for-privacy@splinters.comcast.net> wrote in message
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
beekeep wrote:

crackle crackle hiss hiss -- extremely annoying LOL rach

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Budd Cochran wrote:

neither am i a mechanic -- will go check. i changed the ECU too -- had one in the reliable 86 Ram that needs body work to safety
will get back to you shortly

i have the wrecking yard in my yard >grn>

OK -- i took it off when i noticed it was going to the positive just before i emailed the group -- i will leave it off -- radio and speakers are not worth listening to -- will leave it off
thanks budd
rach
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You might want to rethink that if there are any electonic circuits involved. Some of those transistors can be fried very easily by a voltage spike, especially in the older versions.
beekeep
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
beekeep wrote:

my brand new baby bouncing chilton manual that arrived today (yee hee) that i'll be picking up tomorrow should tell me
rach
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Rach,
Greg makes a good point if your engine has the dreaded Lean Burn computer, but it still should be on the negative side of the coil.
If your emission laws allow, switch to a 70's distributor, harness, ballast and ECU from an older /6 engine (car or truck) and get rid of that thing and save a ton of hassle in the future.
--
Budd Cochran

"Rachel Easson" < snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Budd Cochran wrote:

yes, I will be checking that out tomorrow as Greg suggested and while i`m at napa picking up my manual -- does it matter which way the coil is installed -- i put it in the same way as the old one -- positive towards the firewall
i`ll get the pricing on parts you suggested -- there is no emissions testing in quebec yet -- not sure i can afford them -- is this critical to its running without stalling -- and will check for sparking tues night
once it is running, i want to have the motor switched with the motor in my other 86 -- i have to get them both to a neighbours -- run it over the summer while i fix up my 4x4s and sell it early fall if it causes any more trouble
rach
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Physical position isn't important but polarity is.
A red wire in common with the O2 feedback solenoid, the EGR solenoid, and ( CA only) air switching solenoid goes to the positive terminal of the coil. A Black with yellow tracer goes back to the computer and a black with blue tracer goes from both wires on the distributor to the computer ( from my son's Haynes Dodge truck manual).

It may not make a difference, but the spark control computers were notoriously failure prone, especially when the engine compartment warmed up.

In my opinion, as well as that of Mercedes engineers, the slant six was one of the best engines ever designed , then the EPA stepped in with the emissions requirements, so, you got the computer, the hydraulic lifters, the cast iron crank, and the 50% reduction in fuel economy.
Budd
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Budd Cochran wrote:

good morning budd!
i need some time to digest all your pointers with the truck and chilton :-) manual in-hand so to speak, and to check into greg`s suggestion
just so you know budd, the other motor is also a 225 -- i wouldn`t dream of putting anything else in it, and yes, although they are not very popular in dodge trucks up here, that i think is due to misconception
it is possible that the weak cylinder has a piece of ``crappy piece of plastic distributor gear`` ;-) underneath, causing misalignment, because when we had the distributor gear on the old one changed, we never did find that broken piece
i have enough to keep me busy all day, so i`ll let you all know how things went tomorrow morning -- unless i get lucky before that
rach
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Bonjour!
Unfortunately, the engine wasn't developed to it's full potential. A diesel version was tried, for example, and, according to one source, it twisted the crank hub off.

It went into the oil pan, not the cylinder. I've broken one myself and that's where I found the piece when I dropped the pan to replace lower end bearings.
Probable causes of No. 5's low reading: burnt or bent valve, collapsed lifter, broken rings, hole in piston or broken piston. Did you squirt a little oil into the cylinder and do a second test? If it comes way up, it's rings, up only a little probably means valve work. I know it's a hydraulic lifters, but run the engine, at idle, with the valve cover off and see if the vlve train is loose.
I had one /6 that still carried 145 psi compression on all cylindeers and yet every top ring was broken.

Budd
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And all this time I thought the top rings were for oil control. ;^)
--
Ken



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.