Cummins 12V 200k plus

There was one in Denver with over 400K. The engines are tough as nails if you maintain them.

there are some dodge diesel trucks with a million miles on them my brother seen one with 750 thousand miles the guy said that he never hade any major engine work done on it except a turbo/ water pump/ starter/ batteries/ belts

Thanks but wsa hoping to talk to someone on here about their experience with it. I've lost power somewhere. Was curious if they had replaced the injectors at any point or the lift pump. I know on certain years, the lift pumps are a serious problem. I think on the 12v's they are pretty reliable and durable. John

Check the hose's at the inter cooler and turbo. They can loosen or perhaps you have a tear in one. You might be better served at the tdr.

Thank you.

I've got about 250k on mine. Loss of power for me meant dirty fuel/filter first & then look at transfer pump. I've replaced tranfer pump twice - I get about 100k out of one & then replace it as a preventative measure.

I replace the filter yearly. I may drive 8k a year. I'm a bike person. FTW.

4 wheels are good for hauling or towing. I can get the lift pump, if that's what you're talking about on eBay for $130 I think. I bought a nice water pump on there but haven't had a need to replace it yet. Curious. Is there a need to drop the tank and clean a sock filter, if it has one? I should have done that when I dropped the tank 5 years ago to repair a brake line. Wasn't sure how to get the cap off. It didn't look like it screwed and my factory service manual didn't say anything, that I remember. Was the transfer pump a bear to replace? I'd think getting to it is the hard part, unless you can get it on a lift and try from underneath.

John

ps have you pulled your injectors for cleaning or replacement? John

It's a locking ring on the fuel module. You're supposed to use a special spanner wrench, but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the ring counter-clockwise to remove it. Make a reference mark on both the ring and the tank, so you can get it back to the same position (which will result in approximately the same torque).

The "O" ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. They are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case.

Tom, you're the best. John

Ok. Good point. Thanks!

Good point. That whole setup is needlessly complex to me (a compromise to use the same tank in both gas and diesel applications)... if I were going to have my tank out, I'd get rid of that whole thing (probably cut a piece of diesel-compatible plastic to sit under the ring as a filler plate), and just replace it with a couple of bulkhead fittings and a dip tube (similar to what DPP sells with their FASS kits). I'd then cut the hard lines back a bit, and graft on some flexible fuel lines - making it much easier later on to lower the tank, disconnect the supply and return lines at the bulkheads (I'd use AN fittings - SO much more reliable than those stock POS push-lock connections), and out with the tank.

I'd not advocating that Midlant do this... but I may have just talked myself into it :)

LOL Nooooooo! I don't want to modify anything else at the moment. Bikes are finally pretty much where I want them, compared to all the others ones in my past. Need to update or repair a boat trailer that has the keel rollers welded to the trailer and they're rotted, boat needs work, and still haven't gotten to the front brakes yet. This just after spending two weeks at my parents doing all their home repair and maintenance. Noooooooo! No modifying anything. Noooooooo Remember the Pink Panther with Peter Sellers? At the end of one of the movies, whit his nose blown off, he was in a I love me jacket writing with a crayon between his toes on the padded walls. That's about where I'm at with maintenance of any sort. I'm toast! I'm burnt!

You might have talked me into it too. What about the fuel level sending unit? The one on my '99 is attached on the module. The fuel pickup portion of the bottom of the module is also spring loaded to compensate for the tank flexing. Will a dip-tube be any problem? My fuel module:

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) plastic is diesel compatable. Stop at an automatic car wash and ask the attendant if they have any plastic soap barrels they want to get rid of. Most of them use 15, 30, and 55 gallon barrels and are happy to give away the empty ones. They are very easy to cut with a sabre saw. The flat bottom of these barrels would be just about the right thickness to make a filler plate. HDPE is also fairly easy to form if you get it to the right temperature. An electric skillet works great to warm up small pieces to forming temperature. In a pinch your wife's laundry iron might work too. Soldering irons work well for cleaning up rough cut edges and making small or irregular shaped holes. See: for more HDPE working details.

ps is there a sock filter on the lines in the tank or a screen that would need cleaning?

When I dropped my tank last time, I didn't monkey with anything, but shortly thereafter my fuel gauge became erratic. Either I've got a loose connection or the sending unit went bad.

John

Awww.... crap. Forgot about that. Okay, fine - I guess it stays.

Take a look at the installation instructions for the FASS over at

They use a dip tube now - doesn't seem like it's a problem.

IIrc there is a module that can go south. They use to be about $40 from dc. You might want to pick one up along with the "O" ring.