For sale: One gently used factory original stock lift pump off my '99 2500 CTD Ram. Garage kept and only 87,500 original miles. Maintains a rock-solid 1 psi at idle and quickly drops to 0 psi at the slightest touch of the throttle. Best offer, buyer pays shipping.
Wanted: FASS fuel system for a '99 2500 CTD. Dammit.
At least I still get 2psi out of mine. Well, I did before I parked it, anyway. My Glacier (Walbro) kit just got here today and the tank vent mod came last week. I'll be busy this friday morning.
If you find any takers, send me the 2nd highest bidder for my '03 (see? mine is newer!) original LP, only 120k miles.
FMB (North Mexico)
I haven't ordered the FASS yet but I have to do something very soon. I pretty much had my mind made up that I'd go with FASS when the stocker crapped out. Why did you pick Walbro?
Walbro vs. FASS... Both pumps are reportedly better than the stock LP. The FASS is set up to allow extra filtration which I didn't feel I needed. I decided on the Walbro back when the FASS was loud. Now, it is reported to be about as silent as the Walbro.
The Walbro pumps plenty of fuel, much of which is returned to the tank through a PRV. The rest feeds enough to your IP from idle to WOT to keep it happy and cool.
6 of one, 1/2 doz of the other, I haven't heard of any disappointed FASS or Walbro owners other than the earlier noisey pumps.FMB (North Mexico)
see it got jelous and mad at you because you were looking at other pumps...you should have known better...
sorry to hear it failed on ya man.
Who makes the original pump? My gas powered truck has a Carter pump. I'd almost bet Carter made the complete "in tank" assembly.
Al
My stock pump is mounted on the engine behind the fuel filter, not inside the tank. I think it's made by Carter. If I let the Dodge garage replace it they will mount the replacement pump inside the tank. I've heard there is a Carter replacement pump available that allows the injection pump to draw fuel through it easier if that lift pump dies but I haven't explored that option too far. I want to upgrade. I'm burning B100 biodiesel. It's a bit thicker than #2 diesel fuel so I want something more capable. I filter my finished fuel before pumping it into my truck but I still like the idea of having easy to service filters on the frame rail. The fuel heater option looks good too.
What a PIA that was. First, I spent over an hour working on getting the second fuel line off the top of the tank. It is real close to both the first fuel line and the electrical connector. I tried almost everything from fingers, wire ties, bread wrapper ties and what finally worked was a length of household ground wire looped and tightened.
Then, the wire connector would not come off. At all. I ended up dropping the tank enough to slip the tank sending unit out of it and left it out of the way as I took the tank out totally and installed the new vent kit. Re installation didn't go well as I couldn't get the sending unit pressed down enough for the ring to grab a good enough hold and screw down. (I thought it was down enough, but it wasn't) Ended up cutting the wires (4) and installing the sending unit on the tank as it sat besides the truck. Reinstalled the tank and spliced the wires to two two-wire connectors so the next sap won't have any difficulties.
The pump installation went very well. No leaks. Turned it on and got zero (0) psi on the gauge. Was expecting 17# or so. Disconnected the fuel lead to the isolator and had my son turn the key on. It spit fuel about 10 feet or more. After the key was turned off, it took close to a minute to bleed down. So, pressure was good to the isolator. Turns out the gauge side of the isolator wasn't nearly as full as I thought it was (thanks Geno's, for the advice). Now I have 17# at 'key on'.
The isolator being low is probably what made me think my original LP was bad. Oh well, I was going to upgrade to a Walbro and the vent kit anyway. Now, I have an Original LP sitting on the bench, probably in good condition still after almost 120k miles.
FMB (Happy to see pressure again)
That's why I gave up on mechanical FP gauges long ago.... been perfectly happy with my Autometer 30psi electric fuel gauge. Despite the warnings, I haven't beaten my sending unit to death yet, in almost three years.
That's probably what I'll install in my '13 when the time comes, that is if the tree huggers havn't outlawed diesel by then.
FMB (North Mexico)
I started installing my FASS last night. I couldn't get the suction line off of the top of the tank module. I've had my fuel tank out three times before so you'd think I could disconnect that stupid fuel line in my sleep. Nope. The squeeze tabs on the clip are oriented "up and down". I can get the top half of the clip pushed in easily but there isn't enough space under the fuel line connector to push the bottom half of the retainer clip in. I tried various tools but I couldn't get that clip released. I have a roll of .032" safety-wire but I didn't think to try it. I ended up spinning the lock ring off the module and dropping the tank down out of the way with the module still hanging from the fuel lines. After the tank is out of the way the fuel line connectors are very easy to disconnect.
The first time I pulled my tank I had problems with the electrical connector. I slid the red lock-tab out but no matter what I did the connector wouldn't release. I screwed around with it for over an hour that time. I ended up prying up on the locking mechanism with a screwdriver until it broke off. The connector comes off now with a gentle tug. I haven't had any trouble with it falling off yet but If my fuel gauge stops working I know what to check first.
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