Dodge Ram 1500 EGR Valve?

No, no EGR on that model. Most likely, you've got a leaking plenum gasket, which is sucking oil into the intake, causing carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, and in turn causing the engine to knock/ping. To test this, with the engine running, remove the PCV valve and put your thumb over the hole. If you feel any vacuum, then you've confirmed the problem. If you have access to a bore scope, you can also look down inside the intake, and look for oil deposits.

The cure is to remove the intake manifold, and replace the belly pan with one from Hughes Engines (part# HUG7714,

The problem with the stock intake is the intake itself is aluminum, and the belly pan is steel. They expand and contract at different rates, eventually pulling the gasket apart. The replacement pan is aluminum, so everything expands and contracts at the same rate. Once the new gasket is in place, run two cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through the engine to clean out the carbon. Once that's done, put in a new set of plugs, as the CC cleaner really fouls up the plugs.

Thank you for this advice - I will give it a try. I was hoping that the issue would require a small fix, but it sounds like it may be a bit more complicated than I'd originally thought.

Thank you again;

Brad

Yeah, removing the intake manifold is a bit of a pain. Nothing too special about it, though. You will need a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool, to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Make sure you relieve the pressure in the rail first. The easiest way to do this is to run the engine, then pull the fuel pump relay from the Power Distribution Center. The engine will run for a bit, then sputter and die. At that point, the pressure in the rail is minimal.

It's just easier to remove all the front accessories and the accessory bracket. You can just unbolt the A/C compressor and PS pump, and set them aside - no need to disconnect hoses. When removing the bracket, make a little cardboard template to keep track of the bolts - they're several different lengths, and easy to confuse.

Obviously, before starting this, you'll have disconnected the battery (you're going to be messing with the alternator), and drain about a gallon of coolant from the system - that will bring the level low enough for you to work on. If it's been a while since your cooling system was flushed, you might as well drain it all, flush it with water, then replace with new. And, if the hoses are a little old, this is the best time to replace them. Ditto on the thermostat and serpentine belt as well. When replacing the hoses, chuck the factory "constant tension" clamps, and replace 'em with regular hose clamps. The CT clamps are fine when new, but they lose tension over time, and become more trouble than they're worth.

And not to over-state the obvious, but you'll also need a full intake gasket set (front, back, and two sides) when you go to put the manifold back on. Any auto parts store should have this. Plan on spending the better part of the day doing this, and if you don't have one, pick up a service manual from the parts place. I tend to like the Haynes manual over the Chilton - better pictures. They're only $12 or so, and well worth it, especially if you haven't done this before.

2001 and prior 5.2L and 5.9L engines are well known to have pinging problems. The mentioned intake plenum is quite common to be the problem but its not the only cause. Rerouting plug wires, replacing them or just spreading them apart may help.

If the plenum is the problem you most likely would notice a minor to medium loss of oil but no signs of any leaks.

Others have had to use cooler plugs, change to a 180 degree thermostat and use 91 octane.

No egr. All the gasket does is separate the atmosphere to the passage in the intake manifold because there is a mounting spot for it it's just not there.