Hi guys!
I have spent several days up in the boonys after fixing the 86ish ram problem (progressively corroding connection between egr solenoid and egr)
I am now going to get the other 86 /6 ram going (but the carb is in the evil ram and they aren't good carbs anyway)
Does anyone know about a list of good candidate chevs that have 6's to convert a /6 to electronic fuel injection? I plan on keeping this one.
and any other helpful ideas on this project?
thanks rach
The easiest way would be to contact either Clifford Performance
Both are pricey, btw.
Adapting a GM system could be more trouble that rebuilding the carbs which makes me wonder why not rebuild the carbs? I've rebuilt many of them over the yeas and would be glad to help you.
Budd Cochran
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Thanks very much Budd.
I'll take that advice then. Is a single barrel Holley 1945 carb worth fixing or ought I to try to put something else in it (the other 86Ram with the better /6)? I can get a carb kit tomorrow when I get my hot plug for the evil 86ish cylinder #5 and :-) my new chilton dakota manual :-) from uap.
if i need help, i'll take you up on it. oh-- and the carb is squeaky clean already -- lord knows i've had all winter to clean it up!
rach
p.s. the evil one decided to bust a coolant hose today! (fixed now)
Furthermore, why go GM when EFI from a 3.9 would do just fine and be "calibrated" to the displacement of the /6?
Also, those carbs aren't real hard to rebuild, although if you happen to have one of the goofy aftermarket smogged 1bbl's, they are a PITA to tune.
You're welcome, of course!
It's a very simple and dependable carburetor. Float level is simple: the float top should just touch a straight edge ( ruler) laid across the top of the fuel bowl ( cover removed). Set your idle mixture screw at 1 1/2 turns open from lightly bottomed ( finger tight only!!!) and set your curb idle screw at 2 turns tighter than first touch to the throttle lever. Depress the vacuum break diaphragm gently (or apply vacuum. Be sure to you are moving the diapragm as just moving the linkage will give a poor adjustment) and set the choke plate opening to 3/16" -1/4". Set the choke unloader lever to where it holds the choke wide open at full throttle.
The rest of the adjustments are set to repair kit specifications.
Make sure you have no vacuum leak between the carb and the manifold, but do not use RTV sealant on the gaskets. Make sure all passages are clear with air pressure.
When you hook up the choke well thermostat ( the thing on the manifold that connects to the choke lever) remember on a cold engine it will close the choke tight, but after the engine is warmed up (140-160 degrees F. or 7-10 minutes of driving) the choke should be wide open.
Just talk to it like you would if wanted your boyfriend to do something special, and don't ever cuss it. It can be more stubborn than a fat old Irishman.
Budd
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I'll take your advice Budd -- you'd know, so I will give this carb some TLC -- at least, as you say, they are simple -- which is perfect for me
tomorrow when
thanks very much -- since the choke was stolen for the evil one, I am installing a manual choke. I'll work on refurbishing the carb today, and install when I have the choke in
I never cuss it within earshot rach
interesting -- first I have heard of this
You've convinced me :-) -- for now -- to rebuild
That year's 1bbls only came with my carb except in CA so I should be OK. Once I've learned on this, I will play with the other half dozen I have in the shed once blackfly season starts
rach
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