Fuel filter.

How do I replace my 2004 dodge diesel fuel filter?

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On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:28:34 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

beekeep
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beekeep wrote:

That's pretty much what the book says but in much fewer words. You should be a technical writer.
Fuel Filter Replacement: The fuel filter is located inside of the fuel filter housing. Removal: (a) Clean all debris from around canister. (b) Remove filter lid using a socket. Attach socket to large hex on top of lid. Rotate counter-clockwise for removal. Remove o-ring. Discard o-ring. (c) Remove filter element by twisting element sideways from filter lid.
Installation: (a) Thoroughly clean inside of filter housing, filter cap and all related components. (b) Install new o-ring to canister lid and lubricate o-ring with clean engine oil. (c) Position new element to canister lid. Place this assembly into canister by rotating clockwise. (d) Tighten cap to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not overtighten cap.
Standard Procedure - Fuel System Priming
A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. Servicing or replacing fuel system components will not require fuel system priming. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 1 to 2 second and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running.
(1) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly release key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. (2) Crank engine. If the engine does not start after 25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until engine starts. (3) Fuel system priming is now completed. (4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not start, proceed to following steps. When engine does start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals.
--
Ken



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Basically :)
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I write a repair order and give it to Charley and say "Hey Charley, would you please change the fuel filter in my truck?".
Works every time!
;^)
Mike
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On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:21:19 -0500, Mike Simmons wrote:

CHEATER!!!!!
--
Chris

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He...he...he... I only do that when I get lazy.....
;^)
Mike
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too.... <BG>
Denny
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But of course! We have an employee labor rate of 1/2 of the Chrysler warranty rate and parts are cost + 10%... gotta have some perks ya' know.
Mike

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And you get lazy, what, about every 12,000 miles? :)
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On Wed, 31 Oct 2007 00:11:29 -0400, Tom Lawrence wrote:

I'b bet its more like every 6,000 to 7,500 (oil change interval) and the fuel filter just gets lucky every other time <BFG>
--
Chris

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Yup! You got it! Every 7.5K for oil and a filter every other oil change.
Mike
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On Wed, 31 Oct 2007 07:04:28 -0500, Mike Simmons wrote:

CHEATER!!!!!!!!!!!!
infact
LAZY CHEATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<GBMFG>
--
Chris

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Seriously, I can only remember one oil change that I didn't do myself. I'm kinda anal so I like to do everything myself. When I change the oil, I pull a sample for oil analysis and also drain the fuel reservoir into a bottle to look for any water. I rotate the tires every oil change, adjust tire pressures, etc. etc. Usually an oil change takes me about two housr to do at home because of my anality. But, my truck IS well maintained.
Mike

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mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
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ABSOLUTELY!! No aftermarket air fer me!
;^)
Mike

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Put a drain pan under the clear tube sticking down, just above the front axle (assuming 4x4). Flip the yellow lever on the base of the fuel filter canister (located low on the rear of the engine on the driver's side). Now, take a 1-1/8" socket wrench, and remove the black plastic cap from the top of the fuel filter canister. Remove the cap, with the filter attached. I then like to spray the inside of the canister with some brake cleaner - this will flush any gunk down the drain,and will also clean off the Water In Fuel sensor prongs.
Remove the old filter from the cap, remove the old O-ring, and put a new O-ring (included with the filter) back on the cap. Lube the o-ring with some diesel fuel. Snap the new filter back onto the cap (with the hole in the center of the filter facing away from the cap), and re-install the new filter. Tughten the filter cap by hand, then tighten it with the socket wrench, just until the black cap and gray body are touching. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN... you'll crack it.
Flip the yellow drain lever back to the closed position. Put the key in the ignition, turn to 'ON', then just bump it to 'START' and release immediately. This will cause the fuel pump to run for 30 seconds or so. Once the fuel pump stops running, do this once more, then, start the engine. Let it idle for a minute or so, until you hear the engine stumble (it may even stall - this is just the air being purged out- not to worry. If it stalls, just re-start it). Make sure you've got no leaks, remove the drain pan, and you're done.
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