Fuel Filter Change Question

I'm going to change the fuel filter in my '06 Dodge 2500 Cummins soon. I have not changed this before. I did get the advice not to tighten it a lot
when putting it back on. (The factory oil filter was put on with a cheater pipe and was fun getting off.) I don't know how easy/hard this is going to come off. I have some of those soft strap things that I might try once I get in there and see. IIRC, there's a nut shaped molding on top/bottom that would allow me to put a socket on there.
Question: Do I need to do this over a pan, or out in the dirt because of the fuel that is going to drain out? Don't need another spot on my driveway or lecture about said spots from YKW.
Also, after changing filter, will I need to follow priming instructions in manual due to creating an air space in there from dumping the fuel and putting a dry filter in?
Thanks in advance.
Any other pointers or caveats?
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

Correct. A 1-1/8" socket with a short handle rachet works well to loosen.

A pan underneath ... or you can use a plastic grocery bag to set the filter in immediately after pulling it out.
Some completely drain the reservior. I don't. I drain a little off and then pull the filter and put a new one in. I'm sure someone will disagree with me, but I like this method because then you don't have to prime the reservoir by bumping the starter.

Make sure to moisten the new rubber o-ring with oil or diesel fuel. I *think* the torque rating is 25 lb.ft. on the plastic cap.

Nope ... it's pretty easy. Takes less than 5 minutes and you get to sniff diesel fuel on your fingers for a couple of hours. Hell of a deal.
Craig C.
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I used to work offshore in the Gulf of Mexico. I had bags and clothes that I would use for NOTHING else but offshore work. My wife even had a separate washing machine for my work stuff.
ahhhhhhhhhh, the smell of diesel ...................
patooooie!
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

My father has a mill-work shop when I was coming up. I stripped & re-finished furniture during the summers. We had a paint booth where I would shoot lacquer on the furniture after staining it. (I also re-painted my first car in that paint booth (1977 Cougar XR-7)).
Anyway ... lacquer ... I spent many, many happy and high summers in that paint booth.
Craig C.
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Yep - that would be me :)
I like to drain the canister first (see my previous post about extending the canister's drain line to make this less messy). With the drain open, I unscrew the filter. Once the vacuum is broken, the canister empties out, and I barely get a couple of drips when removing the filter. With the canister empty, I then clean the WIF sensor (as recommended by the manual). I shoot it with some brake cleaner, which also serves to wash out and gunk in the canister (the dirty side of the filter), and it all goes into the drain. Close up the drain (VERY important), drop in new filter, tighten cap until the black plastic of the cap makes contact with the gray body of the canister (no need to tighten further - the O-ring is what does the sealing), bump ignition to run fuel pump, wait till pump shuts off, then start. Wait for the truck to burp (engine stumbles a bit), and you know you've just purged all the air.
Of course, now I rarely change this filter. With my FASS, I simply change the spin-on filter every 40,000miles or so (Yes, I run dual in-line filters... of course, I'm doing it backwards - 3 micron filter on the FASS, 10 micron in the stock canister. <shrug>). SO much easier than changing the factory filter :)
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Tom Lawrence wrote:

I knew you would. :-)

Just think about all of that diesel being wasted. :-)

I'd like to modify my truck as you have, but I only drive about 1,000 miles per year. I think my next purchase will be a couple of battery conditioners. One day I'm going to walk out to dead batteries from lack of use.
Any recommendations for battery conditioners?
Craig C.
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I keep my other truck (the big gas-sucking V10) on a BatteryTender (http://www.batterytender.com ) I have the quick-connect wire hard-wired to the battery, with the pigtail sticking out the front bumper (next to the fog light). It's set up so that on the off-chance I forget about it, I've got at least half a shot at it disconnecting itself before I rip something out that doesn't want to go back together :)
I'm not sure if a dual-battery setup would give these things any problems. I don't see why, but... ?
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:14:48 +0000, Tom Lawrence wrote:

now that's interesting i thought the FASS went in place of the the stock filter/pump system. was i mistaken in that thought?
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Nope - you're right... I just didn't feel like installing it that way :)
I was lucky - I had a previous pusher pump from another manufacturer, which had already replaced the factory lift pump on the back of the filter canister with an AN fitting. So, with that, I decided to plumb the FASS fuel supply line to this fitting, rather than the back of the injection pump. This way, I would be assured of the factory filter catching any residual junk from the FASS install, including any teflon tape (yeah, I know - but they said to use it) that might have broken off. This allowed me to keep the stock fuel heater (lotta good it'll do with the FASS filter all gelled up, I know...) and stock WIF sensor. And hey, if it ever came to a warranty situation, I didn't alter the factory filtration system (pay no attention to the fueling boxes, air/exhaust mods, or the fact that my turbo suffered a freakish case of cellular mitosis)
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You could always have a freezer size zip loc bag at hand to drop it into.

Yup.
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