Yep. They work well, but do block view of the bottoms of the speedo and
tach (tough to see the OD/Off, 4x4, odometer, and cruise indicators).
I also have the 3-gauge dash pod that mounts on top of the dash, which I
also like. This doesn't block anything, and is easier to read than any of
the other gauge positions.
I can give you a link to some pictures if you like, but once you've seen
one, that's pretty much it.
I can tell you that the fit of both the steering column mount and the dash
mount are very good. If you go with the dash mount, I'd recommend all
electric gauges. This way, you can use a multi-pin connector and make your
own wiring harness, which will let you remove the top dash panel with the
gauges attached - this makes installation and service down the road very
easy, rather than trying to deal with any tubing connectors.
If you need to use a mechanical gauge, then you should get the column mount.
yes, tom i would aprishiate the link to the dash pod. sounds like some good
and bad with the column mount witch the bad im seeing is what i suspected.
i wondered how it would block the dash indicators and ease of reading gauges
witch you and roy have confirmed my suspisions. my only question about the
dash pod would be if they have a 2 gauge mount as i only need/want the 2
extra gauges (remember my truck is a 6 speed)
No, it's only a triple. C'mon - you can always use an extra gauge :)
I'll get you some pictures later on tonight. Currently, my dash pod is out
of my truck (had a gauge go tilt on me - currently getting fixed by
Autometer), so you'll be able to see how it mounts, how I did the wiring,
I should be able to find some pictures of an installed pod, as well.
Sorry I didn't get to this last night...
First, here's the wiring from the dash - I ran it up alongside one of the
defroster ducts. The connector is an 8-position Molex connector, from Radio
Here's a close-up of the pod, sitting on top of the (removable) dash cover.
As you could see in the previous pic, this dash cover piece is just held in
with spring clips - very easy to pop out:
Here's a shot of the wiring inside the pod. You can see the matching Molex
connector that connects to the dash wiring. The aluminum bar across the pod
holds two captive nuts, which is how the pod mounts to the cover (note two
matching holes in the dash cover for the screws). I drilled the big hole
with a hole saw, for the connector/wiring to pass through. Once installed,
the connector tucks up inside the empty space in the pod behind the gauges.
For reference, here's a picture from approximately driver's eye height of
the column-mounted gauges. It's not quite as bad in reality as this picture
makes it look, but I do have to move my head and peer around the gauges to
see things like the odometer and lower indicator lights:
thanks again tom. im gonna hang on to this one so ill have it for ref when
im a little closer to actually buying the parts. ive got my eye on the BD
tripple dog programmer and the rest of the gauges i want as my next 2 things
to do to the truck. hopefully comming soon *big grin*
Make sure before you commit to a programmer that you give the Smarty a look:
Marco's been doing ECM reprogramming for years now, and his CaTCHER ECM's
for the older 24V engines have been highly regarded.
They are quite the toy. A friend who has a 06 p/s uses one. I've driven it a
lot and was really surprised at the difference it makes. The only thing is a
question about dc being able to tell that you've been there and knocking a
warranty claim. There is a bit of talk on the tdr about it but nothing
So Tom, next time you're in Dallas, bring your gauge installation
skills along. I have a truck that needs fuel pressure and tranny temp
gauges installed. Come on, there's pizza and beer in it for ya.
With a Cummins with a auto I'd think a fuel pressure is a must unless it is
a newer model. The trans temp is a close second. It still amazes be how
quickly they heat up when in reverse, the temp fly's up.
I've got an 05 dually. Besides, what are you gonna do if your pressure drops
out on the road? I've got a card with a DC number on it to call if that
At least with a temp guage on the transmission, you could pull over and wait
for it to cool down before burning something up. It's kinda hard to fix a
fuel pressure problem when your on the road.
If the lift pump fails the truck will still run. Some people don't notice
any loss of power at all when the lift pump fails. When the lift pump fails
it puts extra stress on the injection pump causing it to fail also. If you
monitor the fuel pressure you can tell when the lift pump fails and correct
the problem before it causes expensive injection pump failure.
Fuel pressure gauge: $75.00
Lift pump: $170.00
Injection pump: $1,075.00
The cost maybe zero but the bs sucks. The lift pump goes we are on our ass
until towed to the dealer and they order one and it gets to the dealer. The
earlier ones you can pop a new lift pump on in a half hour and your on your
way. I think even with the newer ones a fuel pressure gauge will give you a
heads up if it starts to fail and you can still get to a dealer. Beats being
left at the side of the road when it fails totally.
My FP gauge tells me when it's time to change my fuel filter. My trans temp
gauge tells me when to back off the go pedal, or downshift. Same with my
EGT gauge. My TOT lets me know when it's cool enough to shut down. Boost
gauge lets me know if a clamp loosened up, or to back off the throttle
because I'm about to pop a head gasket. Oil pressure gauge lets me see what
my pressure REALLY is - not some stupid idiot-light-turned-sweeper-gauge.
And, ummm... oh yeah, my water temp gauge pretty much serves to fill a
hole, and back up the stock ECT sensor :)
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