Help me decide pls?

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OK - I am looking for a pickup. Just for weekend use and occasional commutes to airport and as a second vehicle when my primary is unavailable. OK, I was
looking to spend as minimal of an amount as possible.
I found this - A Dodge 2002 1500 quad cab, 4.? engine, 4WD, 5 speed MT. 26K miles. $16,000. More than I wanted to spend but a nice truck.
Before I saw this one, I was looking at a Chevy, 1997 ext cab, 4x4, 154K miles for $7,500.
Pros on Chevy - Price, ext cab not quad cab, Automatic, power locks. Cons - High Mileage. Pros on Dodge - only 25K miles. Cons - Steel wheels look ugly, no power locks or windows, price.
Hmmm - What to do? I do not like payments and I do not have 16K cash. I do not have $7500 cash either but am closer, depending what my 1995 contour sells for. (Anyone interested?)
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unless you're a youngster you don't want a standard rt
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Why?
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"mightyyall" < snipped-for-privacy@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
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um... arthritis? ;-)
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Is 36 a youngster? My POS ford contour is a 5 speed as well. Only was a pain when I regularly commuted to work in heavy traffic. Those days are gone, I work from home now. I only need to commute to airport a couple of times a month.

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==========================Not at all interested in the Contoiur...not even if you gave it to me... NO OFFENSE....just have no use for such a vehicle...
Now this is a Dodge Truck news group....and yes I own a little Dodge Dakota....BUT I am a Chevy guy...always have been (long story but in the late 50's and early 60's I discovered hot rodding a small block Chevy was "cheap" and a lot easier easier then "other" brands..and I was young and only has 19 cents in my pocket...
BUT back to your question...? All boils down to what you want a truck for... weekend use tells me nothing...you building a home on the weekend ? Hauling a BIG boat to the lake on the weekends ?
Trucks are NOT the best vehicle to commute in...not l as comfortable as a car..and the gas milage is usually sucks in relation to any econobox........ 2 major striks against a truck if you want to commute..
My truck is my primary vehicle... it works for "my" needs...I am retired, but have 2 hobbies that I need the hauling ability of a truck...I toy around with old cars... so I have to be able to haul an engine home, or a fender, etc... and I build furniture in my shop.. so I need to haul 2-300 BF of Waltut or Cherry rough cut lumber...
"my" hauling is pretty light duty...so my truck is a 2001 Dodge Dakota, 6 cyl 5 speed... slow, underpowered, geared all wring BUT it gets the job done...
IF I did NOT have the money I would be looking at that Chevy.. The engine should be good for another 50,000 miles easy.. complete stock rebuild is possible for $2,500 .. I personally could give a good (you fill in the blanks) about power locks OR power windows... and unless I was hauling HEAVY loads I would prefer to row my own transmission...
Bob Griffiths 64 & 72 Corvette Rag tops 76 79 & 95 Corvette Coupes 68 SS 396 Chevelle 2001 Dodge Dakota
Wife runs a 96 Dodge Caravan 172,000 miles with on it
.
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Bob - Thanks for the reply. Yes I do have many uses for a truck. I own a cottage and am partial owner in a campground that is over 125 years old. I do a lot of rehab work there most weekends in Summer. I am also a woodworker and do need to cart lumber, etc. My day job I do from home so I do not need it for a regular commute. My job does take me out of town a couple of times a month so I will need to occasionally drive to the airport in it. That's the only commute, per se. I also have an 02 Z71 Suburban I can use for towing, etc. I'm tired of putting 4x sheet goods in the back of it. (Although its nice to be able to shut the door of the sub after loading 15 sheets of 4x8 ply!) The power door locks and windows are a nice to have, I suspect, on a quad cab. On the extendo cab of the Chevy there are no back door windows or locks to deal with. I MUST have some type of extended cab as I may take the kiddies with me to the cottage or to Lowes or what ever.
So - Do I get the '97 Chevy with 150K miles for 7500, firm. Or do I go with the 02 Dodge quad cab with 25K miles for $16K. I figure I'll get a lot more longevity and better gas mileage from the dodge. Yet more power, no payments and two years out of the Chevy. The Chevy may cost more per month for maintenance.
Hmm. Payments, newish truck or no payments and old beater (Actually in very nice shape considering age) truck. Tough one, for me.
Does anyone have any "watch out for the 02 Dodge because they all had bla bla bla type problems?" I have more experience with Chevy. The '97 would be my 4th Chevy ('87 S-10 Blaser, '93 k1500 Blaser, '02 Z71 Suburban). I have never owned a Dodge anything.
wrote:

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Where is this campground? Im always looking for places to go on the motorcycle.

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You can save a bundle if you don't have a need for 4WD and buy 2WD. Slight improvement on gas mileage too, all other factors being equal.
If you can turn a wrench to do repairs as needed, I suggest you go with the more comfortable, and affordable, Chev.
No wrote:

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On Sun, 22 May 2005 18:17:30 -0700, Robert Ball wrote:

4WD is a must have.
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message

4wd is completely useless if you dont have locking differentials. If half the truck is on pavement, and the other two wheels are in the mud on the side of the road with no grip at all, your truck becomes two wheel drive again, its just not the rear two.
Two wheel drive with an ARB locker can get you out of more places then 4wd with open diffs
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For who?
Learn to drive!
JS
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<??????? wrote:

Me for one.

I do know how to drive. Have you ever tried to pull a loaded grain wagon out of the field in 2wd?? How about plowing snow that's laying on top of an inch of ice??
Denny

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OP said he wanted truck for occasional weekend use, trips to the airport. Doesn't need 4WD for that.
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What if he needs to pull a loaded grain wagon out of the field and plow snow that's laying on top of an inch of ice on the way to the airport?
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"Trey" wrote:
> > > OP said he wanted truck for occasional weekend use, trips to > the > > airport. Doesn't need 4WD for that. > > > > What if he needs to pull a loaded grain wagon out > of the field and plow snow that's laying on top of an > inch of ice on the way to the airport?
I the old J20 I have started life as a farm truck with my father inlaw and was used to pull grain wagons and trailers weighing up to 23,000lbs out of the field and it has no locking diffs and I bought it off of him 16 years ago when he bought a new truck also with open diffs. I pushed snow with it for over 11 years in all kinds of conditon including a blizzard once and never got stuck in all those years. I also have a 2000 K3500 with open diffs that has been stuck twice once when it slipped of of a lane with all tires slipping and once on a country lane and when it did all 4 tires spun on the icy under snow and a locker would not have done anything. I pulled it out with the J20 with its open axles. If you really want good preformance on thick ice you need studded tires or chians and some weight not a locker because you want positive directional control with no fishtailing which a locker will do on ice most of the time. (I run 4 studded tires on one of my trucks and it is NICE in ice, especailly when transporting or speading salt on ice coverd lots) Directional control is paramount when plowing snow. I plan to restore J20 someday as itis now retired to sitting in barn though it still runs well. When I meet my wife I had a 72 3/4 T GMC with a 4 speed and open diffs and we used to have "contests" to see who could pull the biggest loads out of field and up to mill. It was about a draw. (after he sold his 3 year old 2wd ford with a locker and got the J20) WHen he or I would get bogged down we were spinning all 4 tires and we could disconect and drive away and use a tractor to pull out wagons that were sunk in too deep to pull out with truck. When I ran with 3 to 4000lbs of grain in bed it never got hung up and rarely did without it. There are some instances where a locker will help but it is not the must have that some make it out to be with a 4x4 and if I bought a new 4x4 plow truck tomorrow it would have open diffs. With a 2wd, a locker does tend to be more helpful sometimes.
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Sure, a locker is not 100% required, but there are some areas I have taken my truck where I had a wheel in the air, and the other three on the ground. The adjacent tire would just spin. I also know that in the rain, the limited slip in my truck makes the truck fishtail a lot quicker then an open diff. A friend of mine was parked on the side of the road in his 4x4 excursion. The two driver side wheels were on pavement, and the passenger side wheel were in the dirt/mud. He put it in 4wd, and the passenger side tires just kept spinning and didn't go anywhere. I guess if you have enough weight to overcome any traction issues with the HP output, then the locking diff would not be all that helpful.
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"Trey" wrote:
> > &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > OP said he wanted truck for occasional > weekend use, trips to > &nbsp;> > the > &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > airport. Doesn't need 4WD for that. > &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > > &nbsp;> > > &nbsp;> > What if he needs to pull a loaded grain wagon out > &nbsp;> > of the field and plow snow that's laying on top of > an > &nbsp;> > inch of ice on the way to the airport? > > > > I the old J20 I have started life as a farm truck with my > father inlaw > > and was used to pull grain wagons and trailers weighing up > to > > 23,000lbs out of the field and it has no locking diffs and I > bought it > > off of him 16 years ago when he bought a new truck also with > open > > diffs. I pushed snow with it for over 11 years in all kinds > of > > conditon including a blizzard once and never got stuck in > all those > > years. I also have a 2000 K3500 with open diffs that has > been stuck > > twice once when it slipped of of a lane with all tires > slipping and > > once on a country lane and when it did all 4 tires spun on > the icy > > under snow and a locker would not have done anything. I > pulled it out > > with the J20 with its open axles. If you really want good > preformance > > on thick ice you need studded tires or chians and some > weight not a > > locker because you want positive directional control with no > > fishtailing which a locker will do on ice most of the time. > (I run 4 > > studded tires on one of my trucks and it is NICE in ice, > especailly > > when transporting or speading salt on ice coverd lots) > Directional > > control is paramount when plowing snow. I plan to restore > J20 someday > > as itis now retired to sitting in barn though it still runs > well. When > > I meet my wife I had a 72 3/4 T GMC with a 4 speed and open > diffs and > > we used to have "contests" to see who could pull the biggest > loads > > out of field and up to mill. It was about a draw. (after he > sold his 3 > > year old 2wd ford with a locker and got the J20) WHen he or > I would > > get bogged down we were spinning all 4 tires and we could > disconect > > and drive away and use a tractor to pull out wagons that > were sunk in > > too deep to pull out with truck. When I ran with 3 to > 4000lbs of grain > > in bed it never got hung up and rarely did without it. There > are some > > instances where a locker will help but it is not the must > have that > > some make it out to be with a 4x4 and if I bought a new 4x4 > plow truck > > tomorrow it would have open diffs. With a 2wd, a locker does > tend to > > be more helpful sometimes. > > > Sure, a locker is not 100% required, but there are some areas > I have taken > my truck where I had a wheel in the air, and the other three > on the ground. > The adjacent tire would just spin. I also know that in the > rain, the limited > slip in my truck makes the truck fishtail a lot quicker then > an open diff. A > friend of mine was parked on the side of the road in his 4x4 > excursion. The > two driver side wheels were on pavement, and the passenger > side wheel were > in the dirt/mud. He put it in 4wd, and the passenger side > tires just kept > spinning and didn't go anywhere. > I guess if you have enough weight to overcome any traction > issues with the > HP output, then the locking diff would not be all that > helpful.
I think the best setup would be a selectable locker (lockable on demand) that is a open diff otherwise as you would have no surprises and could lock it if when you want it locked, not when it wants to. I would try one of them I think if it was a OEM option on a new truck. Maybe someday it will be widely availble instead of on a few select vehicals. One more thing, if you are looking at making/configuring a plow truck, pay attention to front axle weight and capacity because a plow will add about 1000 to 1200 lbs or more to it for offset leverage and weight. Get the stiffest springs possible and I prefer gas engines because they weight a lot less so there is less weight on axle with a plow than with a diesel. My K3500 weighs 3300lbs up front without plow and 4300lbs with it in carry and GAWR is 4800 so I am in limits for warranty. With a diesel it would be over and that wht Gm generally does not warrant plows on diesel P/Us. Dodge upgrade axle in O3 to 5600lbs or so because of problems with D60s with Cummins and plows. Even still a truck that weight over 5000 lbs on front axle with a plow mounted and 3000lbs or less in the rear is not going to be the most stable thing on slick pavement.
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would that be the old J20 with the 401, 360, or 304. Coupled to the turbo400 auto tranny in front of a the original QuadraTrac transfer case? Great transfer case, good tranny. didn't think much of the engines Put a Buick in mine, today would probably go caddy power. Main harness has a bad habit of coming unclipped from its mountings and dropping down on the wiper arm linkage under the dash, makes for a great let the smoke out experience. Long wheel base gave it the best ride of any 3/4 4x4 on the road, but center hangs easy. Best looking truck too. Weak upper shock mounts in the front. Transfer case had what amounted to a limited slip unit in it, it would shift the power to the axle with the most traction. Took the fun out of driving it sometimes, didn't slide turns very well, front axle would kick in and she would straighten out. Some used motorola charging systems, voltage regulators junk. She was a '77 camper special, harvest gold and oxford white with wood grain trim. I traded a '69 Chevy C10 short bed step side 327, Saginaw Super T-10 4 spd for her. Still kick my self for that one, but had to have a 4X4 to go play on Ft Hood on the week-ends, when I didn't have the duty.
Whitelightning
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"Whitelightning" wrote:

It has a 360 in it and it is one of the best or they best motors of that size in a truck I have ever owned. It has a lot of low speed torque and feels bigger than it is with the grunt it produces. It has always started and ran well and still does. I actually had it out in Montana for a year in the 90s and drove it out there and back. I got about 15mpg while transporting it and it never missed a beat. Going up Bozeman pass which is a long steep climb on I90 it maintained 70 to 75 without any real effort and it surprized even me because the altitude did not effect it as much as I though it would. Great engine and if you take off front drive shaft and lock the tcase so it will drive rear wheels, it will light the rear tires (both) without much effort. In fulltime 4wd nobody will beat you up to 30MPH or so because even are part throttle it takes of like a shot and in 2wd mode you have to realy feather it to keep from chirping tires some, especailly on turns. Smooth running engine too. AMC made some great motors in my book.
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