HELP!!Mod to 2001 1500 Quadcab for towing 22' motorboat

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i am in the process of buying a motorboat. i paln to tow it with my '01 1500 2WD Ram. It does not have the factory tow package. what mods should i do to the truck to safely tow this boat ~120 miles back to
home and then ~1 mile to the boat ramp on weekends? thanks for your help.
cliff hubbard
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Buy a decent Class IV hitch, such as a Draw-Tite part# 75101, and a wiring adapter (Draw-Tite part# 18329). You'll be all set.
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On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 13:15:26 GMT, "Tom Lawrence"

(we didn't have one when we towed our 16' inboard, but another 6' of boat must add a lot of weight)
mac
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wrote:

Seems like he is going to tow it a mile a week once he get's it home, no need for a cooler imho.. The initial 120 miles to get it to his home shouldn't be a problem if he uses his head. Heck, he could borrow a friends truck with a tow pkg for the haul to home.
Roy

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Mac thanks for your reply. i was wondering if i might need a transmission cooler. what size would you recommend? the boat is on a dual axle trailer, twin 115 outboards. would you recommend a brand?
cliff hubbard
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wrote:

wow, that's a lot of boat! the trailer must weight about what my boat did.. lol
Like some others have said, if you're only hauling it 1 mile each way, i don't think you need a cooler... The problem would be your initial tow, to bring it home... and it might be cheaper to rent a truck or borrow a friend's and fill the tank than t add something to your truck that you don't need..YMMV
mac
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it's not the 1 mile to and from that's gonna kill the transmission
it's the full-stall start on a ramp with no forward speed to help cool it

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I may be no transmission expert but I must say that if the trans is really that wimpy that it can't take around 60 seconds worth of effort a few times a month without damage, then it really has no business being in a truck at all.
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That is a most perfect comment TBone...and I can't agree with you more. Same goes for problematic rearends (cough chevy cough). Trucks are used for what? Working and pulling loads. Why not make it right to begin with?
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go ahead, do a full-throttle stall on the transmission of your choice, for a full sixty seconds, several times a month
NONE of them will handle it, without auxiliary cooling and regular fluid changes
TC temps can spike in the 4-500 degree range under those conditions
he need a realistic gear ratio in the ass-end, and probably 4WD to deal with WET ramps, plus a honking big cooler, a 4WD pan (if its 2WD), and maybe a 50-50 mix of the recommended fluid and MobilOne 5-20 synthetic engine oil in it

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Who the hell uses full throttle (for a full minute, nonetheless), on a boat ramp?
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Really.
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You really need to step within the realm of reality Gary. The 60 seconds that I gave is really about 4 times the actual time it takes to pull a boat up the ramp (at least all of the ones that I used) and why would you ever use full throttle? If the ramp it that steep or the truck is that under powered for the boat that you are trying to launch, then even a trans cooler is not going to help you, not to mention that if you really needed full throttle, I doubt that you would ever get enough traction to pull the boat out (even with 4 wheel drive).
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YOU need to come over to our local lake and watch (and listen) some Sunday evening
but hey, YOU know it all, YOU advise everyone on their transmission problems, I'll just sit back and punch holes in YOUR advice from here on out, OK ?
go for it bucko, you seem to know almost as much as 'Front pump' Snoman

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God forbid anybody disagree with you on anything. Your 60 second wide open stall condition just makes no sense. IF the truck cannot move under full throttle, then it will NEVER pull the boat up the ramp, never mind 60 seconds. Now I see that there were two others that also didn't agree with what you said but I see no negative response from you to them, why not??? I also said that it was my O P I N I O N that if the transmission cannot deal with some strain on occasion then it should not be in a truck, not a recommendation to anyone and others have agreed. Grow up dude.
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LMAO....I get a kick out of watching idiots on ramps myself since I spend so much time on lakes. But using common sense and proper procedure is the most unused factors people need while towing and getting up steep ramps. Bottom line is that if you abuse your truck it's going to fail on you.
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"TranSurgeon" wrote:

We are actually in partial agreement here but this is also the reason why much earlier in the thread I stated to regear the truck because though the towed mileage may be short to ramp, the stress of the ramp can be high and a tranny can realy heat up FAST in a heavy stall and deeper gears do two things, the tranny has to product less torque to move the load and therefore less heat and strain too and the deeper gears gets tranny off of stall in the converter sooner and at a lower speed which equals less heat too and longer life. Boat ramp duty with a big heavy boat is hard service, especaily with a CC 1/2 ton truck not reallt geared for the load because it has the load of the truck too and since boat is likely a long term envestment, a little more money to regear tow vehcial is well spent to enhance its abilties and relaibilty and enable owner to go on a few hunderd miles trip with boat sometimes if he wants to without concern for failures. I personally have no place in my driveway for a truck that is all look and no tow as that is one of the reason I hae a truck to begin with.
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the transmission cannot and does not 'produce torque'
please, try to be precise in your explanations

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"TranSurgeon" wrote:

Actuallt they do, they produce more torque at a reduced RPM by mulitplication through gear and stall ratio so it is producing a high torque output at a lower RPM than is possoible without.
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actually, they do not
the converter (think about the name) takes higher RPM, lower torque input and converts it to lower RPM, higher torque output
the transmisison cannot 'produce' any torque, but the torque converter does make the above conversion; hence the name: TORQUE CONVERTER
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