Merry new years,
2000 4x4 4.7L V8. when towing, after about 100 miles, check engine comes
on. when read by cheapy code reader, it states lean condition in a cylinder
(I'll have to go re-read it if it is critical to get advice). the truck has
133,000+ miles on it. I bought it with 127k. haven't driven the truck
without a trailer all that far, mostly about 30 mile to work occasionally
(60 mile round trips). 31x1050 tires on 15 inch rims, wind resistance means
I cant pull 5th gear in wind or grade, without losing speed. In a draft it
is good enough, lol.
What you guys figure the most likely cause? need injector cleaning, or new
injectors, or someone tampering with ECU or before I got it? Throttle body
mod? New not K&N but same idea air filter.
The trailer is a 16ft featherlite, with hardly anything in it but a
makeshift bunkbeds, a family size cooler, gas & tools, and slight camping
gear, and 1 dirtbike. (it is half the weight of any dirt bike you imagined
when you read this, unless for some reason you imagined a modern Trials
bike, it weighs less than 150lbs ready to ride.)
Edits, I meant to close and edit then post in a few minutes, sorry. let me
clean this up...
that with the trailer in tow (described below) I cant pull 5th gear in wind
or grade, without losing speed. In a draft it is good enough, lol. runs
like a streak when cold too!
The trailer is a 16ft featherlite, Vnoze 7ft tall, my bed has a fiberglass
tonneau, in the trailer I travel with hardly anything in it but a makeshift
set of bunkbeds, a family size cooler, gas & tools, and slight amount of
camping gear, and 1 dirtbike. (it is half the weight of any dirt bike you
imagined when you read this, unless for some reason you imagined a modern
'Trials' bike, it weighs less than 150lbs ready to ride.)
I wonder if it may also need a tuneup, that's not much of an engine to
be pulling that load. The fact that it won't hold speed seems telling
to me. I'd also scrap that aftermarket air-filter, and get a factory
one, I've never liked those things.
I felt the same way you guys do, with K&N but I don't do offroading, so I
figure since my motorcycles have basically same system in them, and they are
off-road. I can handle maintenance and it might save me some gas mileage.
I know you guys, I'm probably wrong, I keep thinking, lol, that this wasn't
K&N... but I have to find the box to remember (or maybe I can open the
I will be duly embarrassed if it is K&N because I didn't like them, then
might have gotten a coupon and lowered my standards. Got it at AutoZone, so
the engine on this SOB is sh*T junk anyway. anemic, runs like a top until
it warms up though, so I think sensors and crap you can never seem to fix,
might be contributing to the malaise of the engine. I'm trying to locate a
replacement, plus it loses oil pressure when warm weather, if idle drops
below normal idle (like you do a lot with a 5 speed, easing around things at
the farm...) It never tics, when it happens either and has new from
CARQUEST generic replacement sending unit. dint fix anything there, so I
run 15w-30 in it. helps a lot.
basically, ready to let some other poor sole dick with it, get me a TDI VW
non "bug" car, since gas is headed to 5 bucks by this time next year anyhow.
Seriously, get the fuel pressure tested, and if you haven't changed out
the fuel filter in a year, that would be a good start! Fuel
restrictions start out with limited top speed.
Everyone jumps on the "dirty fuel injectors" first, which is the more
expensive (money makin' for the mechanics!), option! Then, once you
have spent $800 for Fuel Injectors, and $700 on the ECU, some mechanic
"genius" who has already profited from your gullibility, will FINALLY
change out the $30 fuel filter!
All problems should be reduced to the most common denominator, and you
have fully described fuel restriction as the problem.
Thanks Big Red! I sure as heck didn't think about that (filter or pump
pressure), Funny though, I did on the other 2 trucks I had starting problems
on though, it did fix them.... I'm going to be totally worthless alzimers
before I am 50... I know better but forgot.
I've had great luck running a tank of Mobile's Super grade. After that
the car runs much better for about a year. I think that Mobil cleans
SOME injector problems, cost is about $3 on a tank ful.
"You win some, You loose some and You wreck some!
-Dale Earnhardt- On 1/6/2011 1:22 PM, Big Red Truck wrote:
In my experience the dodge fuel pumps only last 125- 150 K miles. I
just put a4th one in my truck about a month ago.
Running like shit after it warms up sounds like a faulty electronic
gismo. I had the crank shaft position sensor go bad only when the
engine fully warmed up. No codes thrown until it totally died. I
let it sit for 1/2 hr. and it ran like new again.
As for the oil pressure issue I have to run 20w 50 to maintain a
May be you should buy a Tundra?
Yikes, 20-50 in a modern gas engine? I use 5-30 and have no problem.
That is what modern engines are designed for, I doubt that 20-50 would
give proper oil flow, damn sure void warranty.--
Pete Arnold, Q.A. Manager
Enfield, CT 06083
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