I haven't asked for a tip in a while...

Merry new years,
2000 4x4 4.7L V8. when towing, after about 100 miles, check engine comes on. when read by cheapy code reader, it states lean condition in a cylinder
(I'll have to go re-read it if it is critical to get advice). the truck has 133,000+ miles on it. I bought it with 127k. haven't driven the truck without a trailer all that far, mostly about 30 mile to work occasionally (60 mile round trips). 31x1050 tires on 15 inch rims, wind resistance means I cant pull 5th gear in wind or grade, without losing speed. In a draft it is good enough, lol.
What you guys figure the most likely cause? need injector cleaning, or new injectors, or someone tampering with ECU or before I got it? Throttle body mod? New not K&N but same idea air filter.
The trailer is a 16ft featherlite, with hardly anything in it but a makeshift bunkbeds, a family size cooler, gas & tools, and slight camping gear, and 1 dirtbike. (it is half the weight of any dirt bike you imagined when you read this, unless for some reason you imagined a modern Trials bike, it weighs less than 150lbs ready to ride.)
thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Edits, I meant to close and edit then post in a few minutes, sorry. let me clean this up...

that with the trailer in tow (described below) I cant pull 5th gear in wind or grade, without losing speed. In a draft it is good enough, lol. runs like a streak when cold too!
The trailer is a 16ft featherlite, Vnoze 7ft tall, my bed has a fiberglass tonneau, in the trailer I travel with hardly anything in it but a makeshift set of bunkbeds, a family size cooler, gas & tools, and slight amount of camping gear, and 1 dirtbike. (it is half the weight of any dirt bike you imagined when you read this, unless for some reason you imagined a modern 'Trials' bike, it weighs less than 150lbs ready to ride.)

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If it still has the original O2 sensors, I would suspect that first. Report back with the exact code if you can.
Mike

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I wonder if it may also need a tuneup, that's not much of an engine to be pulling that load. The fact that it won't hold speed seems telling to me. I'd also scrap that aftermarket air-filter, and get a factory one, I've never liked those things.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Me either! Hmmmmm... we haven't had a good K$N rant in the NG in a looooong time.
;^)
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I felt the same way you guys do, with K&N but I don't do offroading, so I figure since my motorcycles have basically same system in them, and they are off-road. I can handle maintenance and it might save me some gas mileage. I know you guys, I'm probably wrong, I keep thinking, lol, that this wasn't K&N... but I have to find the box to remember (or maybe I can open the airbox).
I will be duly embarrassed if it is K&N because I didn't like them, then might have gotten a coupon and lowered my standards. Got it at AutoZone, so who knows.
the engine on this SOB is sh*T junk anyway. anemic, runs like a top until it warms up though, so I think sensors and crap you can never seem to fix, might be contributing to the malaise of the engine. I'm trying to locate a replacement, plus it loses oil pressure when warm weather, if idle drops below normal idle (like you do a lot with a 5 speed, easing around things at the farm...) It never tics, when it happens either and has new from CARQUEST generic replacement sending unit. dint fix anything there, so I run 15w-30 in it. helps a lot.
basically, ready to let some other poor sole dick with it, get me a TDI VW non "bug" car, since gas is headed to 5 bucks by this time next year anyhow.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 01/04/2011 05:30 PM, PlowBoy wrote:

the fuel filter in a year, that would be a good start! Fuel restrictions start out with limited top speed.
Everyone jumps on the "dirty fuel injectors" first, which is the more expensive (money makin' for the mechanics!), option! Then, once you have spent $800 for Fuel Injectors, and $700 on the ECU, some mechanic "genius" who has already profited from your gullibility, will FINALLY change out the $30 fuel filter!
All problems should be reduced to the most common denominator, and you have fully described fuel restriction as the problem.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks Big Red! I sure as heck didn't think about that (filter or pump pressure), Funny though, I did on the other 2 trucks I had starting problems on though, it did fix them.... I'm going to be totally worthless alzimers before I am 50... I know better but forgot.
Cheers.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The fuel filter on your rig is in the fuel tank with the fuel pump module and is designed for the life of the vehicle. Getting the fuel pressure checked ain't a bad idea though.
Mike

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Filter is inside the friggin tank? Jesus H Chrysler, who came up with that? shesh.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've had great luck running a tank of Mobile's Super grade. After that the car runs much better for about a year. I think that Mobil cleans SOME injector problems, cost is about $3 on a tank ful.
-- Pete Arnold
"You win some, You loose some and You wreck some!
-Dale Earnhardt- On 1/6/2011 1:22 PM, Big Red Truck wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In my experience the dodge fuel pumps only last 125- 150 K miles. I just put a4th one in my truck about a month ago.
Running like shit after it warms up sounds like a faulty electronic gismo. I had the crank shaft position sensor go bad only when the engine fully warmed up. No codes thrown until it totally died. I let it sit for 1/2 hr. and it ran like new again.
As for the oil pressure issue I have to run 20w 50 to maintain a decent pressure.
May be you should buy a Tundra?
beekeep

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 1/7/2011 7:00 AM, beekeep wrote:

Yikes, 20-50 in a modern gas engine? I use 5-30 and have no problem. That is what modern engines are designed for, I doubt that 20-50 would give proper oil flow, damn sure void warranty.--
Pete Arnold, Q.A. Manager Ultracast, LLC Enfield, CT 06083 (860) 253-5015
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

beekeep
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.