when you push the piston back on the front calipers and the cylinders back
on the drums -
open the bleeders and block off the hoses (clamp them lightly) to avoid
pushing dirty fluid up the hoses and into the brake system. Most systems
DO NOT like dirty fluid being PUSHED backwards, and pushing caliper
pistons back often dislodges dirt - right into the ABS controllers, etc.
When pistons are back (fully open), release the clamps, and leave the
bleeders open - and the system will gavity bleed for you.
The more and cleaner the fluid you add the better.
(flushing is a great idea!)
Failing to do this can prove to be very expensive on some systems (90's
Ford F series, GM light trucks - and most others!)
Also saves the bleeding hassle!
With the resevoir cap on, there's sufficient back-pressure in the hydraulic
system (not to mention gravity on your side) that all the fluid will flow
out through the bleeders. No need to clamp anything (not that you should
ever do that to a brake hose to begin with).
And, as long as you go slow, there's no need to bleed anything, becuase
you're not introducing any air into the system (you should attach a hose to
the bleeder, and discharge it into a container that's already got some brake
fluid in it - again, so you don't suck any air back in when you stop
applying pressure to the caliper/cylinder).
I agree on the clamping...never do that. Especially on my new stainless
As for bleeding, I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. This is the one thing
I've done that made the biggest improvement for bleeding my brakes.
I'm sure you can find them many different places locally in your area. I'm
affiliated with these guys but this thing works.
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