Oil PSI gauge - T Fitting

I just got a set of gauges for my 92' Power ram 150 / 318 V8. I understand that in order to keep the orignal oil psi gauge and light working i need to use a T-Fitting at the sending unit. The gauge I
bought is a mechanical oil gauge. THe orignal oil gauge works, but I like the look of the other gauges in the truck also. Would a T-fitting work? If it does what size do I need to get? Also where is the right place to put the coolant temperature sender for the new gauge at. Took out one coolant sensor and the hole was to small. There looks to be another but its in one heck of a place to get to, right next to the coolant hose. Is there anywhere else I could put it, the instructions said there could be someother place to put the sender than the coolant sensor, but it don't say where.
I would Appreciate any help,
Brian
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brian wrote:

Augmenting or replacing the factory gauges is a good idea. They are not always as accurate as they could be.
Yes, a T fitting will do fine. It's usually a 1/8" NPT. SOmetimes you have to use a short piece of pipe to extend it out far enough for clearance. ANother trick is to go to a shop that makes hydraulic hoses. They can make you a short piece of hydraulic hose with the correct fittings on each end. Then use a clamp to put the senders anywhere you want.
You should not remove any of the factory water temp senders. The computer needs those. Again, you can use a T fitting. It's best to put it as close to the thermostat as possible. Some people have placed it in the heater line. But that's not as reactive and accurate as it should be. You want to be measuring the water temp as it exits the engine - through the thermostat and out the upper radiator hose.
Summit and Jegs both sell an inline petcock. It's designed to go in the lower radiator hose. You could remove the petcock, add the temp sensor, and then install it in the upper hose.
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.boB
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not always

you have to

ANother trick

piece of

put the

computer needs

the
But that's

the water

radiator hose.

the lower

then install

I concur with what Bob said. In addition, you would do yourself a favor by using copper tubing to interface the oil pressure gauge (instead of the cheesy plastic tubing supplied with the gauge). This is because the plastic tubing has a propensity to fracture, and then leak hot oil. Soft-drawn copper tubing is much better in that regard, and can be obtained from just about any auto parts store -- use the 1/8" OD size. When you install it, dress it with at least a half-turn loop at the engine, to allow for movement by the engine.
Bryan
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.boB wrote:

I read that some ram engines like the V10 have 2 temp senders. One is for the gauge and one is for the computer. The book don't show but one sender for the 5.2L, but I noticed 2 on mine. One has only one wire coming from it, and the other has 2 wires. I don't won't to cause a check engine light or the engine not running right because of taking one sender out. How do you install the temp sender into the hose without it leaking, or how do you install the petcock? Its all new to me. If there is a simple way to hook up the sender just so it works i'll do that. The factory gauge works fine, so i'm not really concerned about the new temp gauge. I just want the oil to work right. Thanks, Brian
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brian wrote:

Better check your factory service manual before disconnecting anything.

The inline petcock comes as a short piece of alum pipe, with a bung welded in to the middle. You cut the hose in half, insert the pipe, and re-assemble with hose clamps. Unscrew the petcock, screw in the temp sensor. I have one of these drains in the lower radiator hose on my Cobra. Been there for over 4,500 miles - many of them hard track miles - without any problem at all.
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not always

you have to

ANother trick

piece of

put the

The oil sender in a 92 has to be grounded. It has both the gauge and light contacts in it. And you need a very deep 1 1/16" socket to get it out. My special sender socket is not deep enough.
I would use an 1/8" pipe tee and a short pipe nipple. All in brass. It's going to de a challenge to get the oil line connected to it where it's located.
Al
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Big Al wrote:

I looked at the sender, its in a pretty tight place to get to. I going to take it to a garage and let them hook up the oil psi gauge becase i could't even get any of my tools to it.
Brian
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.boB wrote:

I went and look at the engine as to where to place the temp sender. The place around the thermostat is almost impossible to get to and even worse getting a wrench in there. I'm thinking about doing it the fastest and easest way, putting it in the heater hose. Its very easy to get to. I'm going to cut the hose and insert a piece where I can bolt the sender in and it will be in the coolant all the time. Now if I so this which heater hose should i put the sender in - the return hose? I'm not really to concered about the water temp gauge, the factory is working fine and it has a pretty new temp sender.
Thanks, Brian
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brian wrote:

I noticed a shut off(I think) on the inlet heater hose before it reaches the firewall. If the heater is off there is no coolant flowing thur it. So i should't place it in the return hose. The shut off turns the coolant back into the engine. Is this right?
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brian wrote:

No, it just shuts it off.
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.boB wrote:

Went to hardware store and got a tee and installed it in the hose and bolted in the sender. Everthing works, no leaks. The factory temp gauge was up to almost 1/4 onm te gauge, (has only C & H readings) the new temp got to about 155.
Thanks a bushel for the help, brian
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