My truck calls for 10W-30 and in Florida I don't need to worry about
operation below freezing hardly at all. I have been running 20W-50 in most
of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90
degrees and above 100 in the summer. I know that on startu-up 10W-30 reaches
the bearings quicker, but wouldn't 20W-50 give it more protection in high
heat conditions? Also, I noticed the new 5W-30 oils out there. All Data has
the 5W-30 listed as an option in my truck. Is there any advantage to 5W-30
over the others? I would think the thinner oil wouldn't protect as well
under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. I would
appreciate you comments. I currently run Castrol 20W-50. I would never use
Quaker State after rebuilding my fair share of Quaker State engines with an
inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in QS.
similar conditions. I've also had several go well past the 200k mark on
10w30. if you look in your owners manual there is a chart that shows what
oil viscosity for what temp range. the 10w30 should cover your area fine.
your summer time temps would be in the upper half of the 5w30 range. IRRC
My last truck was a Chevy, but Castrol 20 W 50 was the only thing that
quieted the rod knock more than two days after an oil change.
Hadn't heard that about Quaker Sludge oil.
I'd stay with the Castrol 20 W 50 if it were my vehicle. Why do you
bother to ask? I someone trying to get you to use something less
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
Use 10w30. Pressure means nothing, flow means everything. Your engine use
very small clearances, hence the lower viscosity oil. Do not use 20-50,
inadequate flow will be the result at the front of the engine. Your sludge
story is a wives tail. Sludge is common when inadequate warming of the oil
occurs. It is created because condensated water combines with the residual
sulfer in the oil. This creates sulfuric acid which corrodes the oil and
turns the oil to sludge. This process can occur with any brand oil that
contains sulfur. This condition is normally caused by people who remove the
thermostat. Did you do that?
No, I didn't remove the thermostat. I was talking about motors that I
rebuilt back in the 80's and the ones that had Quaker Stae had sludge
extremely thick in the valve train. I thought it was the type of oil with
parafin wax in it. I guess it was just a coincidence that the QS motors had
the worst build up. Unless they have more sulfur in their oil.
Oil is designed to separate metal. Like piston rod and crankshaft.
An oil which holds the two apart is also like to read as pressure. If
you put in a no viscosity oil, you can have a lot of fluid flowing.
But not much lubricating. And not much pressure. So, you would have
great flow, but wear out the engine.
I think oil pressure isn't a guarantee of protection. But a
non-protecting oil is likely to read low or no pressure.
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
and no more. Extra thick oil does not provide extra protection,
it takes more energy to move it around, and puts excess strain on
the pump and pump drive mechanisms.
I run 5W-30 in my truck year round. In the summer I often
tow a trailer in temps to the high 90's. In the winter it only
gets down to about 0*. Oil pressure is always right where it
Still running great after 82K miles.
Remember also that the worst wear occurs on cold startup. 5W30 would be
best for an engine in good condition since it would minimize startup wear
and still increase its viscosity to the higher number as engine temperature
builds. 20W50 would result in poor flow on startup, with increased wear as
As the miles on the engine climb higher and clearances increase, 10W30 might
be a good step since it's a smaller range of viscosity and therefore should
have less additives which contribute to deposits. What do you think?
Yea, that sounds like the consensus. I also read about the different oil
filters and they listed the Fram filters as one of the worst. I replaced it
with a Mobil1 filter (Made by Champion) and the oil pressure increased by
25psi. Now it rides at 3000rps at 45psi after reaching normal operating
temperature where it was riding at 20psi. It would start cold and run right
at 40psi and now when the engine is first started cold it runs 60-65psi. The
filter made that much difference. I got the Mobil1 because I couldn't get a
WIX at the local parts store. I found out the NAPA Gold filters are actually
WIX filters with the NAPA Gold branding. The whole oil pressure problem
started after an oil change at Texaco Quicl Lube. It would sit on 0 psi at
idle. I swaped it out for the Fram Extra Guard and then had the oil pressure
riding at the low end of the scale. I have never had a problem with the oil
pressure in my other trucks (not a Dodge) running Fram filters, so I didn't
know about the huge difference a filter can make.
Wow, 0 at idle?! Fram or not, that sounds like a defective oil filter.
That's great that you caught it!
I think I recall that Fram uses too much flimsy cardboard and plastic where
Wix and others use better materials.
You can also get an oil pressure and volume boost by running the larger oil
filter rather than the current "shorty" type Chrysler switched to back in
the 80's. Forgive the Fram part numbers -- but I think the shorty is PH16
and the larger one is PH8.
Dodge and Ford have the mounting boss for their small block
V8's. Anything that fits a SBF, will fit 5.2/5.9.
I generally use Purolater Pro-1, their premium blue filter.
Rate among the top 2-3, and easy to find. They often go on
sale at Pep Boys.
temperature range in your area and a good filter. My guess would be
10w-30 down south. I also suggest that you go with a good synthetic oil
as well. A good synthetic oil and filter will provide better
lubrication and last longer than regular motor oils. As a side benefit,
the base stock for most synthetics doesn't come from the oil field.
Amsoil's website has a lot of good information. Their website is
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