OT: Blow Out

WOW glad your ok....

I am friend, thanks for your concern. Tom L. I damn sure could have used your big bad CTD as the Lil' Bow Tie was hurtin' pretty bad today!

Glad to read your okay. There was a rollover here that didn't end as well. It was caused by the same thing, the tread separated from the tire. the tv film showed the tread the grass, no tire. The truck looked like a toy 4 runner.

What brand of tire do you have?

That would depend on what pressure was to begin with. Also you generally increase tire pressure for extened high speed driving. Many do not run enough pressure in tires and over time tire flex can heat tire and weaken it and cause sudden failure. 99% or the time barring a impact with a object on road, tires fail like this from overload/oheating (pressure vs load and usage)

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Glad you are ok, just think though; new tire(s) for the upcomming move.

FMB (North Mexico)

What would you suggest for a tire pressure?

.Many

So you think that the tread jumping off the caseing is caused by heat brought about by underinflation?

That would depend on vehicle and tires size and load on them and how it is driven

Yep you would too if you knew anything. Heat breaking down the bonding in tires between belts on rubber and it can get to point were it will suddenly fail. This is not to say that they cannot fail from bad design but failure like this are almost always the result of heat, tire pressure, speed and load. The dead give away here is that it blew while cruising at 75 MPH. It has long been a normal rule to increase cold tire pressure by about 10% or more for extened high speed driving (up to cold pressure limits of tire) I have seen some panic when there hot TP is above tire ratings but when they rate the cold prssure of tire, they know pressure will increase as tire heats up so hot pressure is not used to set pressure though some do. In nearly 40 years of driving I have never had a tire on my cars come apart but I have had a few bias ply trailer tires years ago loose their rubber on a hot day at high speed. Nice thing about a bias ply tire though is usually when you loose the rubber the "tire" still holds air so you can stop because the side walls plys are just as strong as tread unlike radial which tends to completely self destruct when there is a major seperation because sidewalls are weak and thin.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

How do you know what I do or don't know?

Heat breaking down the bonding

So if the tire calls for 32 pounds you'd increase it 10% to 351/2 pounds cold. Now that tire will increase how many degrees given the heat build up and the heat of the pavement? Use a m/t car so load won't factor.

Your point?

Sorry that should be pounds not degrees

great answer. really insightful.

yes, and not knowing anything is an area that you are indeed an expert on.

I was curious as to what his answer would be. As usual he does a drive by with a vague answer and his usual stroll through memory lane

Screw it! I'm going to beach for swim and watch the ladies!

Easy to figure out by some of the ripe you post....

While road heat is a factor here, the main part of the equation is the heat the tire generates itself from flexing and this together with road heat determine when a tire may fail. When it is cool outside a tire can withstand a greater overload before it fails because it can disapate more internal heat into slipstream. A tire flexs as it rolls down the road and this flexing generates heat. Load capacity of a tires is determined by its construction. size and pressure and you increase tires size or pressure as load increases. As you increase the ply rating of a tire you either increase the plys and or increase the strength of the ply which adds to more heat being generated as tire flexes (a 10 play rated tires makes more internal heat than a 4 ply rated tire at 32 PSI because thicker stronger plies generate more heat flexing) Increasing tire pressure recues flexing under load and heat from flexing. Radial tires do run cooler and use less power than bias ply tires but they still generate some heat. A classic mistake is some with say 10 ply rated 245/16 tires rated at a little over 3000 lbs at

80 PSI run them at 30 to40 PSI or a bit more to improve ride but this also reduces load capacity because a 245/16 10 ply is only "rated" to carry a bit over 1500 lbs at 40 PSI. When you overload a tire it may take days, weeks or even months before it fails depends on load and conditions as a 3000 lb rated tires does no fail right away with 3500 lbs or more on it if it is at max rated pressure and if speed are below 40 MPH or so this amount a load and more will not really hurt the tire.Plus you can get away with low tire pressure in town/urban driving for months on end because tire never heats up as much as on highway. If we recall the Ford exploer farce, they tried to pin the blame of Firestone but the real cause was the lower pressures that Ford spec'ed for tires for ride concerns which weaken the tires over a period of time ( up to several years) untill they are started to "mature" in failure from this cumlative abuse. BTW I have a equipment trailer that uses 27 inch tall 14.5 inch rimmed 14 ply tires (load range "G" at 120 PSI) They can safely handle over 3000lbs a tire at 120 PSI and are rated to carry a lot more at lower speeds and/or shorter distances. I actually prefer bias ply tires on equipment trailers because though they consume more power and tend to run warmer and not wear as long. they have a very strong "body" and are not easily damaged by rocks or curbs even on sidewalls.

Knownledge and experiance that I did not get from a Sear's catlog or newgroups like you appeared to have tried too.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Real troll like responce here...

You must be REALLY threatened by the concept that someone can know a lot especailly since you know so little you do not understand how someone could indeed be so well schooled (it is called college and experiance eduction) and I did R&D work for many years. BTW, if you ever use a GPS (if you are smart enough to use one) I worked on the tail end of the prototype test project for it nearly 30 years ago and A could write you a book about how it actually works even today from memory. (the theory is actually pretty simple in concept if you understand the basic principles envolved but is was a SOB to implement in hardware for many years). Unlike you I come here to spread knowledge without strings or ego concerns because you cannot take it with you. This has got to be a real conflict for a insecure person like yourself. You should embrace knowledge not reject it just because you do not like the source of it.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

whew! now that was a stinky run on sentence. you should be very happy that sheryl/steve the boob/comboverboy has taken a "liking" to you or you would be in big trouble.

as far as someone knowing a lot.........that would be a subject that you are not vry familiar with.

Yeah I know, but this is one expense that I definately did not want to shell up when trying to move. Such is life though.

Let's see, the tire called for 65 psi cold. I inflated them to 64.5 on all four tires. Yup they were mis/under infalted.

Ok smart ass.

65 psi cold tire pressure, sitting at 64.5 when I inflated them that morning. No load on the the truck, other then the truck it self. They were a "decent" AT tire. Everything was where and how it should have been.

You know, go f*ck yourself and take your preaching with you.

Oh, great! You probably got Berl all hot and bothered with this one. He's probably spankin' off right now to your post.

:-) Craig C.