For all you woodworkers in here...<BG> I got a walnut stock on a mil-surp
that I hopefully going to make look a bit better. It has a few dents but it
doesn't look like it's been ran over by a tank. I got the finish removed
using a paint/varnish remover and tomorrow night I'm going to try the ole
wet towel/hot iron trick to raise some of the dents. Then a bit of sanding
and rub in a few coats of a satin finish tung oil. Anybody got any idea if
this process sounds good or any other suggestions?
ive never tried the wet towel/hot iron trick. so let me know how that turns
out. but the rest sounds solid. if it works well enough for you i may try to
make the mouser look a little better. (its been used to say the least, not
to mention the flood of '94 didnt do much for it either)
You really only need to wet down the area where the dents are and give the
water enough time to get in there before hitting it with the iron or you
will just be wasting your time. Then when you are done, make sure to give
the wood enough time to dry out or you might not like the finish. Don't get
to crazy with the sand paper, you only really want to knock down the raised
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
"Denny" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Sounds good if you like tung oil.. I've never been a fan..
Depending on the size of the dings in the stock, sometimes a wet paper towel and
a soldering iron work well..
If you want a little shine, I'd use your choice of brand/color of Danish Oil...
absorbs well, hardens the wood from inside and goes on with a rag or brush..
If you want gloss or depth, buff it after 2 or 3 days with a soft wheel..
Be very careful, maybe wear latex gloves...
Rabbit fur is a bitch to get out of a finish..
You wouldn't expect me to NOT put that in would/wood ya?? *g*
Tung oil (in it's pure form) is only an oil.. all it's going to do is moisturize
The stuff like "formby's" or whatever is tung oil, poly and a few other goodies
to make it look nice..
Danish oil is pretty much oil, mineral spirits and usually a little varnish or
shellac so you get the penetration of oil with a finish to protect it..
If the tung oil is pure, it won't be durable.. if it's got poly mixed with it,
the wood won't "breath" and could warp or crack in different moisture
I guess that's why they had Matell make the 16 out of plastic.. *g*
Cool.. Glad that it's working out...
I've tried almost everything and keep going back to the Danish Oil... Buffs
really nice, too and it's "renewable".. maybe once a year or 2 just rub on a
No rounds yet. It started raining yesterday afternoon so I started cleaning
cosmoline last night. The metal looks damned good and the stock had a bunch
of little dents so I going to try making it look better. No safe queen for
this one. It won't be shot as much as the other one due to ammo price but
it'll have it's turn looking at the dirt pile. I may even put a bracket in
the tractor cab so one of them can be a 'hog gun. I finally got around to
calling Colt about which chamber I have. The cust rep didn't hesitate a
second when saying that rifle could handle nato or commercial ammo. Even
wanted to know if I wanted a free owner manual for it. She made a helluva
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