OT Home A/C

I did some more digging too. I have older Ruud literature sitting right on my desk showing AC and heat pump unit rating AC's in SEER and heat pumps in EER. Then I go on the net and I see SEER and EER ratings used on both AC and heat pump. Seems to me someone changed the rules sometime in the last couple years! Greg

Wrong. EER is the efficiency rating of a unit operating at a specific or constant temperature and constant humidity.

EER = BTU per hour of cooling 95F / watts used at 95F

SEER is the efficiency rating of a unit (**A/C OR heat pump**) over the entire season.

SEER = BTU of seasonal cooling / seasonal watt hours used

SEER is a more useful measurement, because the temperature never stays constant. SEER also includes other factors that effect efficiency, like cycling and total energy used for indoor/outdoor blower motors, fans, etc.

There is a good explanation here:

The closest analogy I can think of is mpg. If you measure the mpg of a vehicle in a controlled test, (no A/C, specific number of miles, flat terrain) you will get a number comparable to EER.

If you measure the mpg over the course of a tank of fuel or a few tanks of fuel, varied terrain, varied temps (A/C on/off) and varied driving conditions, you get a number comparable to SEER.

Obviously, the number most people would be interested in is SEER since none of us are in a constant/controlled temperature and humidity environment.

Craig C.

They both appear to be wrong. EER is simply Energy Efficiency Ratio and is calculated with a specific internal and external temp and is commonly used for portable units such as window AC units where they are not a permanent part of the structure that they are cooling.

is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and is used for permanent unitssuch as central AC units and heat pumps which are basically central AC unitsthat can run backwards. The SEER value is similar to EER but is calculatedover a range of internal and external temps as these units are part of thestructure they are set up to cool.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratioAnd this took all of about 10 seconds to find.

cooling.http://www.air-conditioner-home.com/eer.aspx> SEER is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and is used for permanent units> such as central AC units and heat pumps which are basically central AC units> that can run backwards. The SEER value is similar to EER but is calculated> over a range of internal and external temps as these units are part of the> structure they are set up tocool.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratio> And this took all of about 10 seconds to find.>

Tbone, the AADT and sometime Snoball defender speaks up.

"The average heat pump or central air conditioner sold in 1986 had an SEER of about 9" puts usage of the term *SEER* with heat pumps 21 years ago.

Ask the IT Tech what needs to be flashed when you install a hard drive.

know."

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You just can't let shit go can you c*ck breath? What a sorry and pitiful man you are. Shame you have to continue to live life in the past.

punkin:

Sure you do:

Headlight bulbs Relays Alternators Motor oil Jumper cables etc...

You even work with things you know nothing about:

"Really! You really don't know shit than do you c*ck breath? News flash c*ck breath, when you recover from a HDD crash or failure and you are starting from fresh some thing will need to be flashed for the system to work properly again. But f*ck, I'm only an IT Tech what the hell do I know."

Once again, you just can't let shit go can you c*ck breath? What a sorry and pitiful man you are. Shame you have to continue to live life in the past.

But lets see here, I will play your little game this one time, Motor Oil, I was not wrong about it, you could not and did not prove me wrong either. It was a simple matter of the fact that you did not argee with what I said, that does not mean I am wrong, nor does it mean you were right. It means only that you did not agree.

Jumper cables? Hmm, show me where we had a discussion about them and where I was wrong, please. There was one comment made about that subject. Again, it does not and did not make me wrong. You just wish to believe that.

Alternators. Again, I was not wrong about it, you could not and did not prove me wrong either. It was a simple matter of the fact that you did not argee with what I said, that does not mean I am wrong, nor does it mean you were right. It means only that you did not agree.

Headlight bulbs? Really, where exactly was I wrong here? I very clearly remeber that the discussion was that I had better success with a specific bulb than another person did. Again, a matter of disagreement, not a matter of me being wrong. But again, this is what you choose to see and believe. I never disputed that other posters claims, I never stated he was wrong.

So, with all of this, one again, I will ask the oh so simple question. Other than in your mind because you have a desire to make everything that I post be wrong, how come in cases such as above, and in many other posts that I know for fact you read, you have not proven me wrong?

Don't waste your keystrokes on this troll. Beryl and Snoman are 2 personalities trapped in one body. The Beryl personality expends so much energy typing coherent sentences that it taxes the physical limits of the combined body. Have you ever seen Beryl and Snoman post near the same time?

know."

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Wouldn't it of been easier just to say "Beep beep your ass?"

beekeep

Because the Idiot uncrossed his legs and let the crotch cannibal lift his head. Oh, it is also a troll.

Fear not, he will disappear as soon as he determines he won't be fed his usual diet of dick

wow, sheryl is back? i go away for a couple ofweeks and it returns.

i would think larry, that you should actually be proud of yourself. you have obviously done something to really hurt its fragile ego, or that of its boyfriend snotroll. in other words, you must have done something right to be able to gather so much time and attention from it.

LOL

cooling.http://www.air-conditioner-home.com/eer.aspx> > SEER is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and is used for permanentunits

cool.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratio> > And this took all of about 10 seconds to find.> >

What exactly are you trying to say?

punkin:

Okay, dope. The Motor Oil discussion again...

"I just bought a 2001 Ram, 3.9L. No owners manual. What is the reccomended oil viscosity for this time of year?"

- Kar

"If you want a good all season go with a 10/30 or 10/40"

- punkin

"Don't use 10W40. Put 10W30 in it and read the manual when it comes."

- Big Al

"Why are you saying not to use 10/40?"

- punkin

"Because it says in the manual NOT to use it. It says to use 5W30 or

10W30 depending on temperature range and specifically says not to use 10W40. At least in my manual it says that. That's why I advised him to read the his manual when he gets it."

- Big Al

"Because it is like the last oil grade you want to use if it is conventional. Back in the 80's they thought is was the cats meow but they found out it is not and no new cars from Detriot are approved for its usage and have nor been for years. It has to do with the hi VI content of oil the can cook out and gum up a modern hot running engine. (grant that some 10w40 are better than other quality wise but it is best avoided) Use 10w30 spring, summer, fall and maybe 5w20 in winter if it get below zero a lot."

- SnoMan

"My 2001 Ram Owner's Manual covers the 3.9L V-6, the 5.2L and 5.9L V-8s, and the 8.0L V-10. Page 195 says "SAE 10W-30 engine oil is preferred for use in all Dodge trucks. There's a chart showing 10W-30 for temperatures of 0 degrees F. to beyond 100 degrees F. 5W-30 is for 32 degrees F. and below. The two viscosities overlap between 0 and 32."

- Beryl

"Well, I can tell you that when I lived in Maryland with similar temps, I ran red line or royal purple syn oil, 15 (or 20) w-50 in the summer, and would drop to 10/40 for winters. Here in AZ, I run royal purple

20/50 all year in my truck and bike."

- punkin

"You didn't even say which irrelevant vehicles you were talking about. All we know is that you're in Arizona now, with some unidentified truck and bike. You've given the OP no useful information, just uninformed advice."

- Beryl

"Really, I have not give the user any valuable information? How do you figure? Better yet, what have you provided to anyone that was useful?"

- punkin

"the grades in the OM are RECOMMENDED, that DOES NOT mean you have to use it"

- punkin

Your advice to Kar was less-than-worthless, punkin.

A memorable one.

"Hell, tell me this, what size is the cabling in a set of jumper cables?"

- punkin

Everyone agreed the OP's standard alternator wouldn't be a problem. You parrotted that, then recommended that he replace it anyway.

"I do not believe that you would have a problem with this, as long as the factory alt is not bad to begin with."

- punkin

"So what's your advice? Do you recommend that he go ahead and replace his?"

- Beryl

"Yes that is my recommendation"

- punkin

"FYI white or blue light is brighter then yellow"

- punkin

You missed Relays.

"Batteries went dead while truck was stored over the winter"

- Fred

"Check for an open relay"

- punkin

Oh yeah, tires too. You drive an empty 1/2 ton pickup and don't know crap about where the tire pressure should be, so you max it out.

"I-10, 75mph, left lane BOOOOOOOM! Left front blows the tread right the f*ck off! No warning, no indication of a problem, checked the air pressure in all four this morning before head off to work."

"Let's see, the tire called for 65 psi cold. I inflated them to 64.5 on all four tires."

"65 psi cold tire pressure, sitting at 64.5 when I inflated them that morning. No load on the the truck, other then the truck it self."

"The information from the vehicle recommendation is null and void when you are not running OE size tires."

I guess you are right guy, I must be lucky.

Nothing and everything. Take it how you wish Tom.

In response to theguy 's post. I thought everyone should know:

What? are you eluding to a connection there?

Uh, must have mis-understood this one myself, but I'm sure someone will correct me post haste.. I have been dicking with computers for at least half my life and can't recall a single time "flashing" anything, except my middle finger at the computer, when recovering the system. Unless, of course, you consider installing an OS on the new hard drive to be "Flashing" the new OS onto the system. Go ahead, flame on.

Anyway, here's something I was told about a long time ago and have always wanted to try it but never have gotten around to it -- Take the complete A/C system from a car and use it to cool a house. The example I was told about was for a house on the NC Outer Banks and supposedly used a Delco A-6 compressor and an electric motor to spin it. I do not know from where the other components were sourced. I could see using a larger evaporator and condensor, possibly.. anyone done this in the past? Sure, I know it's probably more logical just to use a central unit..