PING Tom L

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Hey Tom,
You have or know where I can get hold of a manual or exploded view, of the NP246 transfer case. Mine still leaks, it is coming from the rear
output shaft, but can not figure it out. It has a new seal, a new bushing.
Also what are the likely causes of a low voltage reading on the rear O2 sensor.
Thanks man
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Sorry - all I've got is from the Dodge service manuals, which use the NP241. But, it you're sure it's leaking at the output shaft, and a new seal doesn't fix it, then either the seal was defective/not installed properly, or there's a gouge in the output shaft allowing fluid to leak by the seal.

Low voltage indicates a lean mixture. It could also be caused by a wiring problem... the output wire from the O2 sensor shorting (or partially shorting) to ground will drop the voltage.
It could also be the O2 sensor is just going bad, and not generating the proper voltage to indicate the correct A/F mixture
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On Mar 5, 10:07 pm, "Tom Lawrence"

Output shaft is as smooth as a babys butt. Seal looks ok, but I know that doesn't make it so. Something isn't right, I just have to figure out what.

No indications of it running lean, but I will have it is scanned again, guess I am crawling under it (again) this weekend. That's ok, I need to replace the muffler anyway, so..
I wonder if the guys that replaced my cat on Saturday screwed up the right rear O2 sensor, but that should/wouldn't cause the same reading on the left rear, would it? I wouldn't think so. Hmmm, maybe they are going out on me, 180k I guess it is possible.
Thanks man..
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wrote:

Larry you say further down that you have 180K on it. Could be with wear the shaft is moveing around a bit. Sometimes a aftermarket seal is a tad different, more pliable and might work. Just a thought.
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Man at this point anything is an option. Though the seal is not after market as no one (at least where I am) including NAPA has that part, it is OE.
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wrote:

Doubtful but could be a old stiff seal. Heck ya gotta take it out anyway. Hunt around for a nice new one.
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HUH? You lost me, which is not hard to do today. The seal is new, just not aftermarket, it's dealer item only and had to order that one. To boot the damn thing cost me 60 bucks and that was at their cost as I am good friends with the parts guys.
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wrote:

It has to come apart right? 'Cause it still leaks. Describe the seal, is it like the seal that goes into the tailshaft of a transmission?
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It's round and black is that good?
Yeah, it's similar to that but though they say you should use a seal puller to remove it, you don't have to use one and if you are careful you will not damage it. There is a metal flange in the seal that sits against the output snout and it is a little bigger in diameter then the snout. About the size of a small oil filter socket if that helps
The leak is coming through where the yoke goes into the seal, not around it. So I just have to figure out why, it could be a bad seal again, but want to fix the cause not just band-aide it, I drive WAY too much (150 a day just to and from work).
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wrote:

I'd check the yoke out for play, something must be walking around.
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Oh, right.... slip yoke (wasn't thinking about that before). What about a worn U-joint allowing the yoke to flop around?
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U-joint are relatively new, replaced them both last summer and just checked for slop in the caps and greased them this past weekend. I will have to pull the drive shaft down this weekend and see if there is any play on the output shaft in the t-case. Might have a bearing or something in the case that is going out due to play.
Thanks guys.
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While you have it out you might want to index it in case it is out a bit. That could cause the yoke to move around. Then again you could have screwed up when ya put it back together. Probably weren't practicing Buddism and was punished.<VBG>
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Man, I gave up on Buddism when the originator and founding father became silent. Beer however has not let me down!
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See, you practice Buddism and ya get your wish.<G>

good point!

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Why are you using a pickup to commute 150 mi. per day? The gas savings alone will pay for a proper commuter car.
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Because it is the only vehicle I have and I do not have the ability to purchase a different one. Anyway, what difference does it make what I am driving, how far, how long or for what reason to you. You drive what you want and I'll do the same!
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Oh yeah, lets do some math here. I have a 26 gallon tank, get 400 miles per tank which means that I am getting some where around 15 - 16 mpg. If I were to get "a proper commuter car" that got say 30 mpg but only had say a 15 gallon tank, I really am not doing much better. I would have to fill up just as many time, just as often, what would I be saving?
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wrote:

About 50% of the what you pay for gas. Your getting twice the mileage out of the gallon of gas. It matters not how many gallons you carry.
Your's, in Buddism
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Actually I sat down and figured it out Roy, I really would not save much. Right now, I fill up Sunday everning, which lasts me until Wednesday morning, using the math above, knowing that it is a 73 mile (one way) trip, Iwould still be filling up just as often. Also using the math above, filling up the "car" would cost me about 300 a month, compared to 520 a momth with the truck. Yeah the savings of 220 a month would be nice, but what kind of car am I going to get for that? To save that money I would have to not drive the truck, so how would I get to work? I don't have the money to shell out for a "commuting car" unless RICHARD is going to give up. Besides, I hope to be landing a perm position here and if that happens I am moving close enough to ride my motorcycle, so...
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