i have a problem with my '03 dodge 3500. the power windows work fine
from the drivers position but none of the passenger positon switches
will work the related window. the lock out button is not on. i am
thinking i may need a new switch but the only posting i could find on
the net said to check the "relay" first???
First question... WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH MY TRUCK?!
Yeah, I've got the same truck ('03 3500), and the same problem. Although
with mine, it's somewhat intermittent. There isn't any relay... just a
circuit breaker. And that's the same circuit breaker that powers all
windows, including the driver's. I think it's poor contacts in the lock-out
switch myself - as the lockout switch provides power to all the other window
But - since 95% of the time, I'm the only one in my truck, it's hard for me
to get motivated enough to take the switch panel out and fix it :)
i hear you. i let it go for a long time. and it started off
intermittent in mine too but now it is all the time. the first time i
noticed it was when i had my fifth wheel hooked up so i thought maybe
it was a short in the traler wiring or something. but now it's spring
and i am going to retire in a couple of months and i'm really getting
this "spring cleaning need" to get everything working like it should.
maybe if i just wait for a while the urge will go away.
Wow, you were the one that told me how easy is was to change my driver's
side mirror and it was. That same procedure drops the switch panel in your
hands. So access is 10 minutes, no more and this problem can only be a flaky
switch or a flaky switch connection.
Yeah... pathetic of me, isn't it? I know, I know... I really should just
go out there and fix it. But... it's cold and rainy outside - nice and
warm in here. Plus, I'm lazy.
Maybe one of these days... :)
It's just a fact of life: A guy's collection of "stuff" will always grow to
consume all available storage, and then some. Tools, tool chests, benches,
parts carts, parts bins, shelving units, etc. I've got to do a major
re-organization this spring. I want to move some stuff out, free up an area
dedicated for metal-working (I want to be able to leave my plasma cutter set
up all the time - PITA now to roll it out, hook it all up, just to cut a
couple of gussets or something). I need to set up another dedicated area
for the reloading bench/equipment/supplies (way, WAY far away from the
plasma cutter :)
<sigh> I need a bigger place...
Hey Tom, I had the same issue with my 2500. I pulled the switch assembly out
and was going to pull it apart to actually 'see' the individual switch that
locks out the other windows, but it wouldn't come apart easily and didn't
want to break it. So, after a little percussion maintenance (smack on the
table with a towel to protect the finish), the switch seemed more stable to
the VOM and I reassembled it. After 5-6 months, no problems.
If it happens again, I think I'll jump the Yellow and Tan wires at the
Driver Door Module to bypass the lockout switch all together (pg 8W-60-4).
I suppose I could just replace the whole switch assembly, but why?
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
That's what I was thinking about doing... I've got no need for the lock-out
switch, so if I can't clean up the switch contacts, it'll be no skin off my
back to bypass it altogether.
Once I get around to it, of course :)
thanks a ton, you are a lot more help than my local dodge dealer. i
went and looked at the wiring diagram with the parts guy. he
confirmed that it was a tan wire (the hot lead) and a yellow wire (the
relay) that would be jumped but he said they had to be in the same
my question then: i have two wiring plugs for the master switch. the
front one is smaller and he said that was only for the power mirrors,
but it is the only plug that has any yellow wires coming into it. it
has three. a small yellow with black stripe (not the one i want), a
small guage all yellow wire and larger guage all yellow wire.
the rear plug has the only tan wire going into it, and it is the
heavier guage, so i assume that is one of the wires to jump. can you
tell me which yellow one?
btw, the dealer said they sell a ton of these master switches and that
it is always the lock out switch that is bad in them.
i know i'm sounding like a complete moron, but where do you find the
pin numbers? on the 8 pin connector a yellow wire is on each end, so
whatever end is the end rather than the first pin is hard to tell. on
the 12 pin connector, the there is only one tan wire but it sits right
in the middle, so i am not sure how that gets to pin 9.
On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 20:11:30 -0500, "Tom Lawrence"
Yeah... that would be the case, wouldn't it. You want the thicker of the
two (the 14 gauge wire, not the 20 gauge). For reference, looking at the
connector from the wire side, locking tab on top, pin #1 is the upper-left,
4 is the upper-right, 5 is lower-left, and 8 is lower-right.
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