power window switch or relay

i have a problem with my '03 dodge 3500. the power windows work fine from the drivers position but none of the passenger positon switches will work the related window. the lock out button is not on. i am thinking i may need a new switch but the only posting i could find on the net said to check the "relay" first???

any suggestions?

Reply to
theguy
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First question... WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH MY TRUCK?!

Yeah, I've got the same truck ('03 3500), and the same problem. Although with mine, it's somewhat intermittent. There isn't any relay... just a circuit breaker. And that's the same circuit breaker that powers all windows, including the driver's. I think it's poor contacts in the lock-out switch myself - as the lockout switch provides power to all the other window switches.

But - since 95% of the time, I'm the only one in my truck, it's hard for me to get motivated enough to take the switch panel out and fix it :)

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

i hear you. i let it go for a long time. and it started off intermittent in mine too but now it is all the time. the first time i noticed it was when i had my fifth wheel hooked up so i thought maybe it was a short in the traler wiring or something. but now it's spring and i am going to retire in a couple of months and i'm really getting this "spring cleaning need" to get everything working like it should. maybe if i just wait for a while the urge will go away.

Reply to
theguy

gain access use some Radioshack tv tuner cleaner, contact cleaner, even WD40 may help. Or replace the switch if that is where the power to the remaining switches are getting interrupted.

Reply to
I'm Right

Tom, Wow, you were the one that told me how easy is was to change my driver's side mirror and it was. That same procedure drops the switch panel in your hands. So access is 10 minutes, no more and this problem can only be a flaky switch or a flaky switch connection. Steve

Reply to
Steve Lusardi

Yeah... pathetic of me, isn't it? I know, I know... I really should just go out there and fix it. But... it's cold and rainy outside - nice and warm in here. Plus, I'm lazy.

Maybe one of these days... :)

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Too bad, it is sunny, about 78 here, top is off the jeep, life is good.

Reply to
Roy

And what about this MONSTER shop you have???!!!!!

Reply to
Christopher D. Thompson

It's gotten a lot smaller, lately. I can barely fit the vehicles in there now. I need to seriously consider expanding it. My township's zoning office is probably going to have a fit over this.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Hey Tom, I had the same issue with my 2500. I pulled the switch assembly out and was going to pull it apart to actually 'see' the individual switch that locks out the other windows, but it wouldn't come apart easily and didn't want to break it. So, after a little percussion maintenance (smack on the table with a towel to protect the finish), the switch seemed more stable to the VOM and I reassembled it. After 5-6 months, no problems.

If it happens again, I think I'll jump the Yellow and Tan wires at the Driver Door Module to bypass the lockout switch all together (pg 8W-60-4). I suppose I could just replace the whole switch assembly, but why?

FMB (North Mexico)

Reply to
FMB

Looking at the schamatics, the only thing it could be is the switch assembly. fix or replace it.

Reply to
StephenW

That's what I was thinking about doing... I've got no need for the lock-out switch, so if I can't clean up the switch contacts, it'll be no skin off my back to bypass it altogether.

Once I get around to it, of course :)

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Mine is acting up as well..... I just did a quick search in google for it and it came back as $12.92 for the switch here:

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I think I'll probably breakdown and just get the new switch. :)

Just don't want to have to rip my door panel apart. :(

Steve

Reply to
Steven Santinelli

that thing was HUGE from the pics i seen, how is it you got it full? all the parts that came off the truck with upgrades?

Reply to
Christopher D. Thompson

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Steven, unfortunately, the issue the OP has won't be fixed with that $13 part. That is a door lock switch for the right-front door. Just below that is window switches, but only for the 3 doors that feed off the power from the driver's door switch. I couldn't see the driver's door switch assembly as being offered by RockAuto.

You can go to

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and drill down and see the actual switch assembly for the driver's door is $104 discounted to $83. This assembly holds all the switches in the driver's door and the one single switch in that assembly that seems to go bad is the switch that locks out the ability for passengers to control their own window. It locks out the other door's switches by turning off the power to those switches. That is great if you still have booger-pickers and curtain-climbers.

For those of us that don't need this switch, a simple wire jumper between the two wires going to that switch will act as an 'always enabled' switch. That is the way I'll go if the switch goes bad again.

Oh, and that doesn't fix all problems, some have issues with the connector

304 in the kick panel or splice 333 under the floor carpet. I hadn't heard many of those though.

FMB (North Mexico)

Reply to
FMB

It's just a fact of life: A guy's collection of "stuff" will always grow to consume all available storage, and then some. Tools, tool chests, benches, parts carts, parts bins, shelving units, etc. I've got to do a major re-organization this spring. I want to move some stuff out, free up an area dedicated for metal-working (I want to be able to leave my plasma cutter set up all the time - PITA now to roll it out, hook it all up, just to cut a couple of gussets or something). I need to set up another dedicated area for the reloading bench/equipment/supplies (way, WAY far away from the plasma cutter :)

I need a bigger place...

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Face it Tom, ya gotta put on a addition.

Reply to
Roy

I know how that is, but recently i've been downsizing my collection of stuff. especially now that we are in a 2 bed apartment from that 4 bed house i had.

Reply to
Christopher D. Thompson

thanks a ton, you are a lot more help than my local dodge dealer. i went and looked at the wiring diagram with the parts guy. he confirmed that it was a tan wire (the hot lead) and a yellow wire (the relay) that would be jumped but he said they had to be in the same wiring pod.

my question then: i have two wiring plugs for the master switch. the front one is smaller and he said that was only for the power mirrors, but it is the only plug that has any yellow wires coming into it. it has three. a small yellow with black stripe (not the one i want), a small guage all yellow wire and larger guage all yellow wire.

the rear plug has the only tan wire going into it, and it is the heavier guage, so i assume that is one of the wires to jump. can you tell me which yellow one?

btw, the dealer said they sell a ton of these master switches and that it is always the lock out switch that is bad in them.

Reply to
theguy

You want to jumper the tan wire from pin 9 of the 12-pin connector to the yellow wire from pin 8 of the 8-pin connector

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

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