power window switch or relay

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i have a problem with my '03 dodge 3500. the power windows work fine from the drivers position but none of the passenger positon switches will work the related window. the lock out button is not on. i am
thinking i may need a new switch but the only posting i could find on the net said to check the "relay" first???
any suggestions?
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First question... WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH MY TRUCK?!
Yeah, I've got the same truck ('03 3500), and the same problem. Although with mine, it's somewhat intermittent. There isn't any relay... just a circuit breaker. And that's the same circuit breaker that powers all windows, including the driver's. I think it's poor contacts in the lock-out switch myself - as the lockout switch provides power to all the other window switches.
But - since 95% of the time, I'm the only one in my truck, it's hard for me to get motivated enough to take the switch panel out and fix it :)
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On Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:34:19 -0500, "Tom Lawrence"

i hear you. i let it go for a long time. and it started off intermittent in mine too but now it is all the time. the first time i noticed it was when i had my fifth wheel hooked up so i thought maybe it was a short in the traler wiring or something. but now it's spring and i am going to retire in a couple of months and i'm really getting this "spring cleaning need" to get everything working like it should. maybe if i just wait for a while the urge will go away.
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gain access use some Radioshack tv tuner cleaner, contact cleaner, even WD40 may help. Or replace the switch if that is where the power to the remaining switches are getting interrupted.
wrote:

lock-out
window
me
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Tom, Wow, you were the one that told me how easy is was to change my driver's side mirror and it was. That same procedure drops the switch panel in your hands. So access is 10 minutes, no more and this problem can only be a flaky switch or a flaky switch connection. Steve

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Yeah... pathetic of me, isn't it? I know, I know... I really should just go out there and fix it. But... it's cold and rainy outside - nice and warm in here. Plus, I'm lazy.
Maybe one of these days... :)
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Too bad, it is sunny, about 78 here, top is off the jeep, life is good.
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On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 13:08:21 -0500, Tom Lawrence wrote:

And what about this MONSTER shop you have???!!!!!
--
Chris

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It's gotten a lot smaller, lately. I can barely fit the vehicles in there now. I need to seriously consider expanding it. My township's zoning office is probably going to have a fit over this.
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On Wed, 05 Mar 2008 17:26:38 -0500, Tom Lawrence wrote:

that thing was HUGE from the pics i seen, how is it you got it full? all the parts that came off the truck with upgrades?
--
Chris

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It's just a fact of life: A guy's collection of "stuff" will always grow to consume all available storage, and then some. Tools, tool chests, benches, parts carts, parts bins, shelving units, etc. I've got to do a major re-organization this spring. I want to move some stuff out, free up an area dedicated for metal-working (I want to be able to leave my plasma cutter set up all the time - PITA now to roll it out, hook it all up, just to cut a couple of gussets or something). I need to set up another dedicated area for the reloading bench/equipment/supplies (way, WAY far away from the plasma cutter :)
<sigh> I need a bigger place...
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Face it Tom, ya gotta put on a addition.
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On Fri, 07 Mar 2008 10:51:14 -0500, Tom Lawrence wrote:

I know how that is, but recently i've been downsizing my collection of stuff. especially now that we are in a 2 bed apartment from that 4 bed house i had.
--
Chris

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Hey Tom, I had the same issue with my 2500. I pulled the switch assembly out and was going to pull it apart to actually 'see' the individual switch that locks out the other windows, but it wouldn't come apart easily and didn't want to break it. So, after a little percussion maintenance (smack on the table with a towel to protect the finish), the switch seemed more stable to the VOM and I reassembled it. After 5-6 months, no problems.
If it happens again, I think I'll jump the Yellow and Tan wires at the Driver Door Module to bypass the lockout switch all together (pg 8W-60-4). I suppose I could just replace the whole switch assembly, but why?
FMB (North Mexico)
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


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That's what I was thinking about doing... I've got no need for the lock-out switch, so if I can't clean up the switch contacts, it'll be no skin off my back to bypass it altogether.
Once I get around to it, of course :)
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thanks a ton, you are a lot more help than my local dodge dealer. i went and looked at the wiring diagram with the parts guy. he confirmed that it was a tan wire (the hot lead) and a yellow wire (the relay) that would be jumped but he said they had to be in the same wiring pod.
my question then: i have two wiring plugs for the master switch. the front one is smaller and he said that was only for the power mirrors, but it is the only plug that has any yellow wires coming into it. it has three. a small yellow with black stripe (not the one i want), a small guage all yellow wire and larger guage all yellow wire.
the rear plug has the only tan wire going into it, and it is the heavier guage, so i assume that is one of the wires to jump. can you tell me which yellow one?
btw, the dealer said they sell a ton of these master switches and that it is always the lock out switch that is bad in them.

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You want to jumper the tan wire from pin 9 of the 12-pin connector to the yellow wire from pin 8 of the 8-pin connector
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i know i'm sounding like a complete moron, but where do you find the pin numbers? on the 8 pin connector a yellow wire is on each end, so whatever end is the end rather than the first pin is hard to tell. on the 12 pin connector, the there is only one tan wire but it sits right in the middle, so i am not sure how that gets to pin 9.
On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 20:11:30 -0500, "Tom Lawrence"

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Yeah... that would be the case, wouldn't it. You want the thicker of the two (the 14 gauge wire, not the 20 gauge). For reference, looking at the connector from the wire side, locking tab on top, pin #1 is the upper-left, 4 is the upper-right, 5 is lower-left, and 8 is lower-right.

Again, 1-6 on the top, and 7-12 on the bottom.
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On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:05:50 -0500, "Tom Lawrence"

perfect. thank you very much, that was right on. did it and my passengers have their power windows back! again, thank you.
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