power window switch or relay

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Wanna come over and do mine, too? :^)
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On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 02:38:14 -0500, Tom Lawrence wrote:

You might even get Tom to let you use the garage........
<GBMFG>
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Chris

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On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 20:23:59 +0000, "Christopher D. Thompson"

well........just from reading what he writes here, i doubt he'd let me near his truck. he seems to have a mechanics knack. me, i have a a nack for messing up anything mechanical. but, i did take my time with this jumper and i even used real connectors to jump it instead of a knife and electrical tape.
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On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 20:36:05 +0000, theguy wrote:

LOL
glad you got it to work out for ya.
and he did ask if you would do it for him *cheezy grin*
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Chris

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Looking at the schamatics, the only thing it could be is the switch assembly. fix or replace it.
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Steve
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Mine is acting up as well..... I just did a quick search in google for it and it came back as $12.92 for the switch here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode 13414&parttypeF08&a=FRc1413414k937616
I think I'll probably breakdown and just get the new switch. :)
Just don't want to have to rip my door panel apart. :(
Steve

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Steven, unfortunately, the issue the OP has won't be fixed with that $13 part. That is a door lock switch for the right-front door. Just below that is window switches, but only for the 3 doors that feed off the power from the driver's door switch. I couldn't see the driver's door switch assembly as being offered by RockAuto.
You can go to www.newmoparparts.com and drill down and see the actual switch assembly for the driver's door is $104 discounted to $83. This assembly holds all the switches in the driver's door and the one single switch in that assembly that seems to go bad is the switch that locks out the ability for passengers to control their own window. It locks out the other door's switches by turning off the power to those switches. That is great if you still have booger-pickers and curtain-climbers.
For those of us that don't need this switch, a simple wire jumper between the two wires going to that switch will act as an 'always enabled' switch. That is the way I'll go if the switch goes bad again.
Oh, and that doesn't fix all problems, some have issues with the connector 304 in the kick panel or splice 333 under the floor carpet. I hadn't heard many of those though.
FMB (North Mexico)
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