pulling the load

i just got back from vacation, hauling the camper down to los angeles (disney land) and san diego (zoo) from billings montana. the scales at flyin' j says we were just a couple hundred pounds shy of 23,000 pounds
total. i was a bit disappointed when pulling my camper back from texas, but this time i have no complaints. since i had my family with me i didnt use as much accelerator and the truck just did fine. the looooooooong grade into baker california took some time but i was still passing the big trucks pulling the same hill. see http://inlinediesel.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_IDe4 for trip pictures and details.
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Nathan In Montana
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What was disapointing about pulling from Texas? What is your configeration? 6 speed? 4.11 rear end? With that much weight I would think so. Your rig and 5th wheel are a nice setup.
And the reasons you were passing trucks on the way to Bakersfield: The part of I-5 is very restrictive on speed limits on trucks and .... The trucks may only have about 2-3 times the torque of the 6.7L or 5.9 Cummins in the Dodge, and may outweigh you by up to 55,000 lbs, figuring full tons and full load capacity in a box.

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wrote:

If you want to get a better idea on how you should be able to climb a grade or what to expect, check out the link below as it is based on physics involved.
http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?tE ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Wow. Hundreds of posts on a forum and only one person posting and replying.
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thanks for the link. how does that factor in gear ratios? im guessing that is actuall RWHP?
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wrote:

No it is based on projected flywheel HP needs. Where gear ratio comes in is that with a deeper axle ratio, the engine runs at a higher RPM in any given gear and therefore has more HP avaible since HP equals torque times RPM divided by 5252. Or do do it in reverse to find out how much torque is needed at what RPM to make required HP simply take required HP times 5252 and then divid it by RPM and you will see how much engine torque is needed to make the desire HP needed for the climb in question. Below are two more link, the first should the relation ship between torque and RPM to make required HP and the second shows drive shaft torque required with variuos gear ratios.
http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?tr
http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?tH
One more link if you are curious is the amount of chassis counter twist that is place on motor mounts when climbing a grade.
http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?tI ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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4 speed automatic, 3.73 gears. when i hit some of the grades in colorado the truck would slow and downshift and slow and downshift. it was disappointing because i was trying to maintain highway speeds and it wasnt happening. unrealistic expectations on my part i guess.

.......i wish. :-) im still looking into adding an underdrive setup.

many thanks.

most of the big trucks were down to 20 mph or so by the time they topped the grade. i was running about 40 when i topped it and i wasnt beating my truck up to do it so i was happy with it.
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That there is your problem. If I had a 3500, I would have the 4.11 rear end and 6 speed transmission. 4.11 does not increase load capability, but it does make it easier to tow heaver loads. Also a 6 speed would increase the load capability by, I think, by 4-5000 lbs.
If you had both of those on the truck I would say you would have no problem doing 65+ up the hill.

I towed up that hill in a 1500 with the V6. That engine is way too small for the truck, but I had a 5 speed manual and I was still able to hit 35. So yes better trans makes a difference.

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....i think youre underestimating that hill. :-)
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Nope. I've been up and down it MANY times.

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Nathan W. Collier wrote:

Nice setup. I had no idea that Billings (the first couple of pictures) was that scenic.
How was your mpg pulling your trailer?
On a separate subject, (perhaps we should talk via email), I noticed that you are quite the 1911 fan? I was at the gun show in Dallas a couple of weeks ago and Kimber has a new (new to me anyway) model (Eclipse Pro Carry II). Wanted to know what you thought of it before I spend a bunch of money.
Craig C.
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in the right spots, even billings is beautiful.

it varied, but overall i averaged about 12.1 mpg. not bad at all considering the load and the grades i was pulling.

....you could say that. :-)

my recent experience with kimber http://1911talk.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID 4 left a bad taste in my mouth. im sure ill own kimbers again eventually, but im a little gun shy with them right now. im sure they build a fine weapon and im sure i just got a bad one.....but i would steer you towards the springfield "loaded" champion. mine http://1911talk.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID24 has been absolutely flawless and seems to function no matter what ammo i run through it.
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Nathan W. Collier wrote:

That's great. That w/o OD the entire time?

I've heard similar grumblings about Kimber. I have a Kimber Ultra Carry II stainless. Flawless weapon (so far). Although, I have only put about 150 rounds through it.
I've not checked into the Springfields. Do they have a carry model .45? i.e. compact frame and short barrel like the Kimber Ultra Carry II or Eclipse Pro Carry II?
I gotta say, the *best* gun I have (and have ever fired) is the S&W model 910. (9mm). Never jammed (approximately 1200 rounds put through it), nice tight patterns, affordable, simple design, very easy to breakdown/clean and reassemble. Definitely one of S&W's better guns.
Craig C.
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in '05 there is no od lock out. it still shifts into od, only it changes the shifting supposedly to where it will only go into od when its safe to do so. the majority of the trip was in od.

their qc has been up and down. when you have a good one, you have a GOOD one. when you have a bad one....
regardless, with the negative experience im just hesitant to buy another.

absolutely. the springfield ultra. i did a review on mine at http://1911talk.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID "4

have you played with the s&w m&p yet? its quickly becoming one of my favorites. see my review at http://concealedcarryforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_IDI3
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Nathan W. Collier wrote:

Well, me too after hearing of more people than just you having problems with them. That's why I asked you in the first place. So, thanks for the confirmation.

Now that is a nice looking gun. I'm a big fan of the Hogue grips. I have a set on my S&W 910.

I have not fired one, but I have held one. It reminds me of a Glock. This may be opening me up for ridicule, but I wasn't blessed with the biggest hands (I have long ass fingers, however :-) ). A Glock doesn't sit well in the palm of my hand. Feels like it's going to fly out when I shoot.
Thanks for the information. I'll check out the Springfield.
Craig C.
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i really like them too. i put them on all of my 1911s that come with smooth front straps.

this to me is its greatest asset. glock action/reliability with a proper grip angle.

have you held a glock 20 (.45) or glock 21 (10mm)? i would love to own either of them but cannot because my hands arent big enough for them. when i hold one it feels like im a little boy playing with daddys gun. if you have big hands this might be perfect for you. the mid-size glocks (g17/g22/g31) fit my hand perfect.....i just dont much like the grip angles.
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Nathan it doesn't sound like the Kimber was at fault, but that they decided to make it more ammo friendly. Keep in mind 1911's were designed for ball ammo. Were you using hollow points? John

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i disagree COMPLETELY. kimber was completely at fault. the weapon would not function period, and since its stamped "custom shop" on the slide its supposed to mean that the weapon was handled by a custom gun smith. that it wouldnt cycle at all says they did a very poor job.

while what you say is true, i wasnt shooting an actual 1911 i was shooting a modernized clone that in fact doesnt even use the original bushing barrel setup. modern 1911 clones are indeed designed to function hollow points......if they werent they would have a dang hard time selling them. to answer your question however, the weapon wouldnt feed _anything_ reliably. the only round that would function even half way was the corbon powr'ball and even that was hit and miss. i tried blazer brass, i tried WWB, i tried american eagle (all ball) and it woudlnt cycle it. nor would it cycle hydrashoks or any other hollow point. i have literally dozens of 1911s and only 2 have been problematic. the kimber that went back, and my colt combat commander xse which functions everything reliably except corbon jhp's (which happens to be my trusted carry round).
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Sounds like a S&W M41 I have. Had to send it back twice. Once to get it to feed and NOT drop the magazine after each shot. Second time was to get it to shoot under 3". The m41 is a custom shop gun as well. In modern fabrication that doesn't always mean what you think it does. What they mean and what you/we expect can be totally different. Blessings, John

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i agree, at least in that many mass production companies are stamping "custom" on their guns as a marketing ploy only. it unfairly waters down the term.
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