All instructions I've seen re usage of the Mopar CC cleaner say to "pull
the air tube off the TB" and spray in the entire contents of the can,
letting the engine load up but not die.
Okay... What air tube? They surely don't mean the big oval air inlet
tube to the air cleaner on top of the TB do they?
Do I remove the air cleaner assy and just spray directly into the TB while
trying to hold an idle?
I take the air cleaner off the throttle body, warm the engine up and keep
the engine idling by hand while spraying directly into the throttle body.
Just as you empty the can, leave the engine die. Don't worry, there won't be
a mosquito around when you start it back up. <G>
Hmmmm... hot engine, holding an idle by hand. Prolly oughtta wear some
Yeah, 10-4 good buddy in re to the skeeters ;-) Last time I fogged for
skeeters with one of those butane torch foggers the neighbor across the
back fence called the fire dept. I can understand why he might, it was
pretty thick. I'll prolly give him a call to give him a head's-up this
I was planning to do it this weekend but never made it by the dealership
to get the stuff, so been reading up on the process. I see some people
using plain old water, but aside from smoking up the place I don't see how
that could have any value or "soak in" to break up the carbon.
One other thing, since doing this myself is there any specific brand of
plugs I need to get and what should I gap 'em at? (97 Ram 5.2L) Tools I
have, mechanical knowledge I don't have. Sorta like a steeplejack buying
his first shovel.
Use the OEM Champion plugs... I ferget the # but it's on a sticker under
your hood. Don't waste your money on any double, triple, quadruple,
splifire or platinum jobs... just use the good ol' Champions like God
Check the tag under the hood. I "think" the gap is .035". I've haven't used
a torque wrench in years, just use a 8" 3/8th drive ratchet and turn it down
till its snug and then nudge it a tad. How's that for an exact
If the plugs use a tapered crush washer, finger-tight, then 1/2-turn. If
they use a flat sealing washer, finger-tight, then 1/16-1/8 of a turn.
If you go with the Champions (I always liked the truck plugs, #4071,
myself... copper core - little bit better construction, plus they look cool
in black :), they use a tapered washer.
That's up to you. I don't but nobody has ever accused me of being very
I've used the ole 50% water 50% atf, shake it up real good till it looks
nice and pink and then dribble it down the carb/throttle body while holding
a high idle trick a few times in my career and it does seem to work. I never
really liked doing it cause of the ole liquids that don't compress theory.
The mopar combustion chamber cleaner does seem to work much better.
Different chemicals for different applications. The Berrymens Chem-tool and
Gumout are carb/throttle body cleaners that do a fine job removing varnish
build up and light carbon deposits from the throttle plate area. There are
probably a hundred other uses for the stuff because they desolve petrolum
so well. The carbon deposits that build up on the back of the intake valves
and in the combustion chamber are usually harder than a rock and have to be
chipped off or a wire wheel works good on the valves. The combustion chamber
cleaner soakes into these deposits and softens them up so when you run the
dog shit out it the deposits will break apart and get spit out of the
exhaust. And it does seem to work fairly well.
Denny is right about the carbon build up being hard as a rock. I once
helped a friend rebuild a 348 Chevy truck motor many years ago. We had a
HALL seat grinder and valve grinding machine, but the valves had to be
cleaned up first and with a drill motor and STIFF burnishing brush it was
still one holy mother of a job to clean up those valves, even after
soaking them in the solvent tank for a couple hours. We also had something
you don't see much anymore... a lapping tool and a tube of lapping
compound. Does anyone lap-in their valves anymore then number them and
match numbers on the seats when doing a top end overhaul? Used to be a
matter of routine.. part of the job.
Yes, every time. When doing valves, the seat gets cut (the newer machines
uses a tool bit instead of a stone), the valve gets faced, length gets
checked and then it gets lapped in every time. A few steps have been left
out of this sequence but that's the gist of it.
BTW, a bead blaster does a helluva job cleaning those valves....much easier
that a wire wheel.
Not really. You also want to change the oil after using the cleaner
since it cleans a LOT of crud out of the engine and some of that ends up
in the oil. The GM top engine cleaner I use WILL make you think your car
is on fire and if your parked inside it will gas you out of the
building. Also do NOT park with the exhaust pointing toward anything you
want to stay clean. The carbon and crud that comes out will make an
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