Replace Ram Front Shocks

Friends,

I have a 1996, Ram, 1500, SLT, 4X4, 5.9, with the snow plow/ towing group. I do plow snow. One of my front shocks blew. I was looking on Rock Auto and, as usual, I'm a bit comfused. They talk about some with 2" or 4" lift. I'm not sure which I need. Also any brand recomendations would be appriciated.

Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated than in the Chrysler Service Manual. Are there any tricks or suggestions for their replacement. Thanks.

Steve

Reply to
scorpioex1
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If your truck is not lifted get the hd shock. I've been happy with monroe in snow plowing applications. Although I have not plowed snow with a 1/2 ton truck.

How much plow weight are you carrying. Make and model

Reply to
Roy

Roy,

It's a bit much for a 1/2 ton but I have a Boss 7 1/2' Super Duty straight blade. I have a set of 3/4 ton timbrens in the front. I have 3/4's because the 1/2 tons wouldn't fit and in talking with the factory they sent me the 3/4's for free saying they would fit better when I described my truck's front end.

Steve

Reply to
scorpioex1

It's a bit much for a 1/2 ton but I have a Boss 7 1/2' Super Duty straight blade. I have a set of 3/4 ton timbrens in the front. I have 3/4's because the 1/2 tons wouldn't fit and in talking with the factory they sent me the 3/4's for free saying they would fit better when I described my truck's front end.

Steve

I couldn't find a site that had the weight of your plow. I'd still go with the monroe's. But I've been out of plowing for a couple of years and things may have changed

Hopefully Denny will pick up on this thread.

Here is a site that is nothing but snow plowing.

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try looking here or asking a question of these folks.

Reply to
Roy

Nothing much to it. The bottom bolt is accessed from the front - it's got a flag nut on the back (a flag nut is a nut pressed in to a piece of metal that jams itself against something, preventing the nut from turning when you loosen/tighten). Once that bolt is removed, remove the shock tower from the top by removing the three nuts holding it down. Depending on the clearance, you can sometimes pull the whole shock still attached to the tower up and out. If not, remove the top shock nut (hold the stud on the shock from moving with a wrench or vise grips. Better shocks have an allen head broached in the top of the stud for this purpose), remove the tower, then pull the shock out. On a relatively new/non-rusty vehicle, it's pretty easy.

On an old rusty shock, it can be a bitch to get the top nut off. If you can fit a Sawzall in, you can cut it off. If not, you could split the nut with a cold chisel. On some shocks, I've resorted to griding a couple of flat on the rod with a grinder, then grabbing it with a set of vise grips to keep it from turning - but in your application, the coil springs would be in the way.

If there's enough threads showing on the stud, you could double-nut the top of the stud (jam two nuts against each other), hold the top nut, and turn the one that's holding the shock to the tower.

Sometimes you have to get a little creative.

Of course, before resorting to the above methods, soak the nuts with penetrating oil (real penetrating oil, like Kroil or PB Blaster. WD-40 is not that good of a penetrating oil) first.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Thanks Roy and Tom,

Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700 lbs.

Tom, the Haynes says I need to put the truck on jack stands. Is that necessary?

Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't figure out if anyone may know.

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Thanks aga> > =A0 =A0 Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated

Reply to
scorpioex1

Not really - might make it a little easier lining up the new shock, but it's not like you have to take any weight off the suspension or anything.

No idea on that one... sorry.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

"Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't figure out if anyone may know."

I went to one of those gritty looking NAPA dealers (not the usual retail outlet) looking for a part I had no name of either. I waited around for 30 minutes, but they found the exact part I needed for a vehicle that GM no longer makes part for (or hardly anyone else too).

Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700 lbs.

Tom, the Haynes says I need to put the truck on jack stands. Is that necessary?

Also, not to be ungrateful but I have an older post that I still can't figure out if anyone may know.

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Thanks aga> > Also the procedure in the Haynes Manual seems more complicated

Reply to
GeekBoy

Roy, it's a RT3 and I believe the blade weight is knocking on 700 lbs.

With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.

Reply to
Roy

Thanks Again,

Tom, they're soaking as we speak and the shocks will be in tomorrow.

GeekBoy, I know just the gritty NAPA store to try and if not I'll try the dealer. As a coincidence I just got a "Special Exclusive Invitation" from the dealership I bought the truck from with a guaranteed winning number on it if I come in. I could win $15,000 cash; a $500 Walmart gift card; or a $5 Walmart card. I wonder which I won? In all honesty they've been decent to me over the years and I'm looking for a new vehicle for my girlfriend so it won't hurt to stop by.

Let you know how the repair goes.

Steve

Reply to
scorpioex1

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Reply to
scorpioex1

Roy,

I got Monroe Gas Magnums. Sound Okay?

Steve

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With that weight you might want to look at a air shock.

Reply to
scorpioex1

They should do.

Gotta ask how many miles on the shock that blew? Were they originals?

Reply to
Roy

Roy,

They are originals. She's only knocking on 100,000 but they've been all hard working miles though. I haul, tow, and plow on the shores of Lake Erie (so salt is always a lurking demon) and she's never spent a day out of the weather. Also, I'm the only one in the family with a pickup so.... But I'm glad to help when I can. I don't baby her but try to take reasonably care. I'm guessing I have either a back window or third brake light leaking into the passenger footwell, an active ABS and brake light indicator which I believe is related to that rear axle clamp, a faulty drivers side window regulator, a passenger side window that likes to 'go down' but not up. I have a few projects ahead of me, as we all always do. Along with leaking transmission lines that I haven't gotten to yet. Hopefully all summer jobs. Thanks again for all the advise.

Steve

They should do.

Gotta ask how many miles on the shock that blew? Were they originals?

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Reply to
scorpioex1

I figure shocks are good for about 2 years without a plow. You did well with yours.

She's only knocking on 100,000 but they've

Reply to
Roy

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