Replaced resistor pack a/c still does not work...

Hello again,
I replaced the resistor pack in my 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab and the a/c still refuses to come on. When i adjust the blender control i can
hear it moving behind the dash and i can hear the a/c compressor kick on/off but I get no flow through any of the vents. What else can I check and look for?
Thanks,
Eric.
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The blower motor?

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Don,
What is a quick way to test the blower motor?
Eric.
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This may be a silly question, but do you get air out the vents on heat settings with the A/C turned off? When my blender door broke, I could hear the servo motor run, but it didn't change the door setting. You should be able to hear the blower running especially on high, even if the vents don't work. If no motor noise, I would suspect a fuse or the motor itself. HD
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HD,
With AC off and heat on I get nothing through wents. I'm about to pull blower motor and test with 12VDC power supply. If it is bad would local auto parts store carry it? Or is it a dealer only part.
Eric.
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I honestly don't know, but would guess that it is a dealer or junkyard item. I checked my FSM and it lists the following causes as reasons the blower motor may be inoperative.
Faulty fuse Faulty blower motor circuit wiring or wiring harness connectors Faulty blower motor resistor Faulty blower motor relay Faulty blower motor switch Faulty A/C heater mode control switch Faulty blower motor Faulty blower motor switch
At least checking the blower motor is fairly simple. Just unplug it and hook it up to your power source. If you are going to remove it, the manual says to disconnect the negative battery cable two minutes prior to any electrical work, may be a good idea to do this before testing the motor too. If your fan runs when you apply power to the leads, then you have some troubleshooting to do. HD
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Local auto parts stores have the blower for my truck, don't know about the newer ones.Don't get it from a junkyard, you could end up doing this again next month.I believe the most expensive I've seen the motor is around $50. Mine was less but my truck is old.......

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Unplug the blower motor and turn it on. With a voltmeter check and see if you have power at the jack.
beekeep
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beekeep wrote:

beekeep,
I disconnected the blower and connected it to 12V power source and it works like a charm. Connecting my voltmeter to wiring harness that plugs into the blower does not give me 12VDC. I get nothing at all. I then put the voltmeter directly into the wire piercing the insulation and I still got nothing. I have checked every fuse/relay under the hood and they all check out good. What else is there to check? A/C control cluster? If so how do i remove it from dash to do so.
buc.
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Okay...you've got a dark green wire on that connector, which should have +12V on it when the ignition switch is on. Test this with your voltmeter connected to a known good ground. If you have no voltage here, it may be a problem with the ignition switch. Test the same dark green wire at the ignition switch for voltage.
If you do have voltage on the dark green wire, next see if you have ground on the black/tan wire, with the blower motor switch on high (check for continuity between the pin and a known good ground). If you don't get anything there, pull the center console off (remove the screw under the trash bag hook next to the glovebox), and check out the continuity between the pin on the blower motor connector, and the other end of the wire at the connector on the HVAC control panel.
The common side of the blower motor switch is the black/dark blue wire on pin #5 of the 10-pin connector. Make sure you have good continuity to ground at that end.
See if any of that reveals the problem.
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Tom Lawrence wrote:

Tested the above and no voltage whatsoever. Checked under steering wheel by connecting voltmeter to green wire and bare metal of truck and no voltage. My knees are starting to buckle as I fear what lies ahead. Sigh... I'll be a man and handle it :) What next Tom?
Buc.
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Really stupid question.... the ignition was switched ON, right? When it's on, you should also have voltage on the dark blue wire, and the solid orange wire (to name a few)... just to make sure your voltmeter is working and your ground is good...
Now, assuming that - the feed wire for the blower motor feed is the pink/black wire (pin #1 on the connector). That should be hot all the time. If it isn't, check fuse #4 (a 40 amp fuse) in the integrated power module. If the pink/black wire is hot, but the dark green isn't, with the ignition on, then you've got a bum ignition switch (but double-double check the connectors before ripping the switch out of the column). If the pink/black wire is dead, but the fuse checks good (and you do measure +12V on one of the fuse connectors), you've got a broken wire between the IPM and the ignition switch.
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Tom,
With the ignition on I do not get voltage on dark green wire but I do get voltage on the dark blue and solid orange wire. I also get voltage on the pink/black wire. After this test would you agree that I need to replace the ignition switch? Is this a small job? How much is the part? I'm going to definetly study my FSM before doing anything removing a single screw. Do you have any pointers or suggestions?
Thanks,
Eric.
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Yep - sure sounds that way... assuming you removed the connector and checked for things like a burnt pin, melted plastic, etc.

It's not too tough - especially if you have the FSM (the real FSM - not a Haynes or Chilton's book). You'll need some Torx screwdrivers (manual doesn't say anything about any security Torx screws, but it wouldn't surprise me to find at least one. A set of security Torx bits can be had at any auto parts place for pretty cheap.... sorta defeats the whole concept of security screws in the first place, but oh well)
As for price, less than $20 - even at the dealer parts counter (make sure you just buy the switch - you don't need a new lock cylinder, which would put the cost closer to $100)

Nah, like I said, it's a pretty straight-forward job. Just make sure to disconnect the battery first, and follow the FSM instructions.
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I got a blower motor for my Chevy at the auto parts. Worth a call. actually, I need another blower for my Dodge Van, so that's a real issue. I need to make another call. The Chevy blower was about $20 at Advance Auto.
I do believe that there is a resistor pack in the air flow. What that means, i fyou run straight 12 volts the motor burns out prematurely. This, from experience.
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Christopher A. Young
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