transmission oil pan

With enough silicon you can seal up anything. If you seal it well, and let it cure well, it should seal well. If it doesn't seal, then the mating surface may not be the problem. Look for cracks in the trans body, cracks through the bolt holes, maybe even a crack in the pan itself. If you have to replace the pan, I think the shorter one would be fine.

It is true that with enough RTV you can basically seal anything but you trouble may lay in how your are assembling it. Prep it as you have in the past, but when you assemble it, install bolt littlemore than finger tight and then let is sit overnight at very least because it you take it to full torque instantly you can squeeze the sealant out (24 hours would be great) and then snug bolts up to about 15 to 20 in lbs and drive it and after it heat and cools the first time, recheck bolts torque and take it to maybe 25 to 30 in lbs max. (this is important to do) Frequently people apply to much torque to these bolts and warp the seal area. You might check them again after several more cycles. As far as RTV, I have found the black "stuff" or "kind" to work about the best overall.

----------------- The SnoMan

My experience is use silicone ONLY WHEN NECESSARY. It can cause as many problems as it solves. If using silicone, don't waste your money or time on anything other than Permatex/Loctite's "right stuff".

Nine chances out of ten, applying the new gasket dry will stop the leak.

Lots of times in lots of places it will not. My son had a Tercel once that the ONLY way you could seal it was with RTV (there was even a service bulliten to the effect too) THe black RTV is the best I hace found and you can remove it if need be without too much fuss. Tranny pans can be a pain sometimes and there has been a few time that I had to use double gaskets before I started using black RTV. Also I like cork gaskets the best for pans but they are getting harder to find thes days.

----------------- The SnoMan

I used the black permatex around the pan and let it set over night before I filled it up with trans fluid. It harden good but it still leaked around the corner. I been putting more permatex on it till it looked like theres no way it could leak, but it still does. as for as the pan, its in good shape. No cracks anywhere and the trans is in good shape also. I'll put more stuff on it, but i'm thinking of using the pan thats .5" less deep. Would it be fine to use or will it affect the fluid level for the trans? brian

First, be sure the leak is actually the pan gasket; the dipstick tube is just above the right corner of the pan and leaks above the gasket tend to run down to the protruding gasket and collect there before dripping off. With a mirror and flashlight inspect the area where the dipstick tube enters the case.

If the leak is actually the pan gasket, try the gasket provided by the dealer; it's a reusable design with superior sealing qualities.

Put it together loose so you do not squeeze all the RTV out and then let it sit overnite and then snug it a bit more as posted earllier the next day and it will not leak. YOu do not want to torque it down fully at first and even then not much when it is dry.

----------------- The SnoMan

IF you haven't damaged the pan and the trans case isn't cracked or porous you don't need anything except a new cork gasket and an inch pound torque wrench. If I recall correctly, the spec is 12 inch pounds, you'll have to go around a half dozen times to get them all properly torqued up. DON'T overtighten, you'll create leaks. And don't use form a gasket or silicone, it's not needed.

If you've done your work correctly and it still leaks, turn your attention to the dipstick tube O ring seal. It's easy to change and sometimes simulates a leaky pan gasket.

Robert

Ummm.... think you means foot pounds - as 12 inch pounds is just about finger-tight :)

Spec or not I think that is a bit too snug.

----------------- The SnoMan

On the Tercel you only needed to put a little dab on the corners where

2 parts joined - like where the rear seal housing joined the block, and the pan gasket joined the pan to the whole shebang. The CRITICAL thing is to get the flanges clean, straight, and true on ANY gasket application.

You're a lot closer than I was! My old book says 150 inch pounds, about 12 foot pounds...I plead old age...lol

Robert

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll look around the dipstick tube, I noticed the other day its right above the leaky corner but never thought about it leaking. I Don't see how it can be coming out around the pan gasket as much as stuff i put around it. The dipstick tube sounds like it is the most likley problem. Have a good 4th everyone! Thanks, Brian

here's a thought. have you looked to see if the leak is actually from the pan??? the oring that seals the dipstick tube can and will leak to. look closely if the leak is from the pan it will not be wet with fluid above the pan. if the leak is coming from the dipstick it will be wet from there down.

Looked today at it while it started leaking. Wiped it off and sure enough it was running down form the dipstick. This truck is my baby (besides my girl friend, She looks like Miranda Lambert,and she has a black Dakota) people say all the time its the nicest one like it in the county. Thanks for helping to slove this problem.

brian