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Two big problems with my truck

Truck: 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 (bought used in 2003)

I just changed the rotors (and brakes), to do so I had to remove the hub(s). First let me tell you something I found when took the wheels off - the passenger side wheel had a spacer between the wheel and the hub/rotor assembly. Both Hubs are torque'd to 150 pounds.

Now to the problems:

Problem 1:

On the drivers side I noticed that the rotor "wobbles" a little, could this be because of the LACK of a spacer? or is there another problem (bearing, etc) ?

Problem 2:

On the drivers side only, I smell "grease", could the rotor wobble be heating up this side causing the wheel bearing grease to heat up? Or something else?

Thank you

Reply to
newworldactor
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That spacer was put on to address a brake pull condition. My '99 had it new - I suspect it was a TSB issued previously, and was put on yours during some dealer service the previous owner had done.

No - nothing to do with the spacer (as the spacer sits between the hub and the wheel). If the rotor's not running true, it's either warped, or not pressed on to the hub assembly properly.

Got an infrared thermometer? Shoot both hubs after driving a while, and see if there's a temperature differential.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Should I be looking for this spacer on my 96? I am going to be changing my front brakes in the next week or two. Didn't know I had to pull the hubs. John

Reply to
Midlant

Well - I never said it actually helped :) I took it off my '99 when I put different wheels/tires on, and never noticed a problem. I think it was just another attempt to fix a somewhat problematic braking system.

If you want to get the rotors off, yes, you do. I don't subscribe to the theory of always turning the rotors. I check them with a micrometer and a dial indicator, and if they're within spec (much harder to warp these larger/thicker rotors), I just go over them with a brake disc on an air sander to break the glaze.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Where did you get a "brake disk"?

Reply to
TBone

Most auto parts places. Truth be told, it's not much more than a scotch brite pad - it just says it's "designed" for brake rotors. Heck, some 120 grit sandpaper would probably do just as well. Just don't go nuts with it... . if you see sparks, well - you're going nuts with it :)

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Thanks Tom. I didn't think I had to take the all that off just to replace the pads. On my bikes and anything else I use a little emory cloth or what's lying around to scuff any glaze. It's always worked for me. No squeaks or squeals. Hose down with break cleaner and wha lah. Thank you again. John

Reply to
Midlant

Yep - in that case, just a 3/8" allen wrench to pull the two caliper slide bolts, and off comes the caliper with the pads in it. Don't forget to clean/re-grease the slide pins, as well as a light coat of brake grease on the rails of the caliper mount (where the caliper slides back and forth). If you have a dial indicator, it's worth a quick check of the rotors for run-out. I think the spec is stamped on the rotors.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Thank you Tom. You're a blessing. John

Reply to
Midlant

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