.007 is fine if you're setting up a new gear set. If he's reusing the old gear set, he needs to measure backlash
-before- anything is disturbed or disassembled. When he reassembles and sets backlash and bearing preload, he needs to set the backlash to what he measured originally.
Having rebuilt a few 9.25 Mopar rears, including machining custom axle shafts, installing limited slips, and such, the screwdriver method works fine. As a matter of fact thats why the factory places the adjustment holes in the side adjusters. It's not practical to buy every tool the service manual recommends. The only tools you really need are a dial indicator and a good mechanical sense.
There absolutely is - what do you think the function of the adjusters is? They get tightened to somewhere around 80ft.lbs. (don't remember exactly). That's putting pre-load on the carrier bearings.
All tapered roller bearings require pre-load.
(cross-post to RCM removed - this is a truck issue, not a metalworking issue. No need to pollute other groups - something I wish others would recognize)
Put a pipewrench on the shank???? There is a 'special' tool to turn the adjusters. Think of a piece of pipe with the appropriate (sp) sized nut welded on one end to fit the adjuster and a nut on the other end to fit whatever socket you desire. You insert the tool in place of the axle shaft to turn the adjuster. Or just pry the hell out of the adjuster with a screwdriver..
Oh, but there is.... gear lube in your face/mouth/nostrils. Back when I was workspace-challenged, and did my vehicle work on a creeper in my driveway, I was attempting to remove a rear diff cover. I had most of the bolts removed, and a gasket scraper tapped underneath the cover. As I pulled on the gasket scraper (much the same way you would pull on a screwdriver to tighten an axle adjuster nut), I pulled myself on the creeper towards the axle, just as the silicone decided to "let go", and popped the cover up.
Not fun.... not fun at all. I smelled gear oil for the next several days.
Geez, he didn't tell me he had pictures. Seems he lost the lock on the left adjuster. It would seem that this adjuster worked its way loose and the carrier is floating to the left under load. It doesn't look like he has too much wear on the ring gear. At this point I would tighten *ONLY* the left adjuster to get proper load on the bearings. He shouldn't need to set the rear up if he didn't screw with the right adjuster. The noise will disappear once the bearings are properly loaded. If he still has noise after this it would be best to go down to the bone yard and get a low mileage rear for about $75.
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