I really appreciate all the advice in this newsgroup - you pointed me to some great sites, now I have photographic guides on how to do everything from the plug wire re-route to replacing the timing chain (not looking forward to that).
Where things stand now:
I checked all the plugs and they are all intact - no metal spatters, no missing electrodes or insulators. They were pretty wet and oily, but this was after a dose of injector cleaner, and a string of failed start attempts, so there would be a lot of fuel in the cylinders. There's a lot of carbon, and some are lighter than others. But I'm no plug interpretation expert. Photos here, for your opinions:
Thanks again for all the advice!