True but I seldom have a helper. Plus I use a toe stick myself, with the
vehicle on plates. Makes it MUCH easier. But I remember the "lay on the
driveway on my back in the dirt to adjust it" method as well.
That works but the 2X allows you to avoid the extra measuring.
Sears wouldn't have been my first choice for the repairs. The quality of
their service is highly variable, from excellent to downright poor. The
front hub bearings are rather pricey, but National is a premium brand, so
they sold you the good stuff.
Suddenly, without warning, Mike Simmons exclaimed (5/21/2010 3:50 AM):
Thanks. They were convenient, and did a good job this time. I'd not
have 'em do my brakes, but if I can get the little Japanese guy to do
the tie rods, I will. He seems pretty competent, and was more than
happy to answer my questions.
No, actually you didn't. The sealed "unit bearing" does run about that
much... Rockauto.com has them for $220.
I'm not. A buddy at work brought his F-150 over a few months ago (against
my better judgement, I allowed it in my shop... dummy!), and said he
thought something was wrong with his left-front wheel. Supposedly, his
"mechanic" looked at it, and told him it was his tires. We put the truck up
on the lift, and I immediately pointed out to him how you could wiggle the
tire back and forth about 2". "See, that's bad", I told him. Well, $320 in
parts later (rotor was fused to the hub... made him buy two new front
rotors as well) he was better.
So yeah... not much surprises me anymore on what people sometimes miss.
Soooo..... I miss anything exciting while I was gone? :)
On Sun, 30 May 2010 22:45:04 -0400, "Tom Lawrence"
Much cheaper than the 2500's hub assembly! (at $350 each they are
painful to replace...)
Chrysler's inability to lubricate anything when building these
vehicles is a real sore point to me. Now my sway bar joints have
broken, and again: total lack of proper lubrication and lack of any
method to lubricate is the SOLE problem. Let's see: ball joints, hubs,
axel U-joints, drive shaft U-joints, actually everythign that should
have a grease fitting as failed at about 50K miles!
I don't baby my '03 2500 and have driven lots of dirt roads including the
one across the Arctic Circle to Coldfoot and back, and that wasn't the
worst. I have 190k miles on it now and I replaced my front U-Joints for the
first time at about 180k. The Coldfoot trip was 5 years ago when I had
about 50k on the clock. I had a rear driveshaft U-Joint go out earlier this
year. In prep for another trip to AK, all U-Joints are now new. I haven't
had issues with sway bar joints, wheel bearings, center support bearing or
ball joints. I replaced the clutch after 187k miles.
I know there has been a lot of owners with HVAC door problems due to poor
design. I replaced my recirc door once and have the upgraded parts to do it
one day when I feel like pulling the dash again. I had one stick replaced
under warrantee and the cracked alt bracket too. I've had issues with the
passenger window being able to be controlled by the passenger occasionally.
Other than that, normal maintenance stuff; belt, fluids and filters. Oh,
and rotating tires... when I haul the Fox a lot (>10k miles), the rear tires
tend to wear more. I end up swapping front for rears once during the life
of the tires and I get great even wear.
I don't quite understand why some trucks last 3-4 times longer than others.
Is it the way the driver drives? I doubt it. Is it Salty Winters? I don't
know the breakdown stats, so I don't know. Anybody stay in a Holiday Inn
Express? Not me. You are not the only one who's joints last 50k or less.
I don't know the answer... QC? Eng?
If only we could answer these questions!
Put a 97 Toyota T-100 on the lift today: owner said "Strangs
Dang, had bunch of grease fittings on the drive train, all the
U-joints, slip joings, everywhere. Amazing.
Now the problem...
REmember how Tyota is getting a reputation for rusting truck frames?
Well thsi one has a body mount bracket that has completely broken off
the frame, it is that bad.
But I did grease his chassies! <g>
I have that, too... bad child lock-out switch. One of these days I'm just
going to bypass it.
Ditto here... got 90K on my '03 (I don't drive it a lot anymore... daily
driving duties have fallen to the '09 1500), and have only replaced the
factory shocks at around 60K, stock tires at around 55K. No other
suspension or diveline problems (though, I did recently have a tranny leak
with my dipstick - don't think that counts).
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