Water Pump Bolt; Couldn't, Could It?

Friends,
My original posts are below but this couldn't happen could it? I anchored the broken water pump bolt to the housing with some Permatex and made a pretty good seal. I drove her to work last night and for
the first time there was no puddle under my truck (I collect the spills and dispose of it properly). The one couldn't have anything with the other could it? I mean sucking air through the broken bolt couldn't cause the timing chain cover to leak could it? I know I'm reaching here but if I could avoid spending $500.00 to get her repaired...
Steve
< < <
Friends,
I had a radiator shop look at the leak and they said it was the timing chain cover that is leaking. Plus one of the water pump bolts is broke. I looked up in the Haynes Manual the procedure and it seems to be a bit beyond my capabilities to remove all these parts and replace the seals. Is it that difficult?
< < < < Friends,
Still need help. My original posts are below. After running her for a while with the dye I don't know anymore than I did before other than there is a very little bit coming from one of the water pump mounting bolts. It seems that most of the anti-freeze is coming out of
the seam that I mentioned below. The oil dipstick almost touches this seam about ten inches down from the top. The dye was glowing almost up
to where the thermostat is but seem to stop well before it got to this area and as near as I can tell it is dry right below the thermostat. Could it be the water pump? Should I replace it? I still can't find the weep hole below the water pump pully. Money is tight right now and
can't really afford to take her to a shop. Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks, Steve
< < <
Friends,
I have a 1996 Ram 4X4 1500 PU, SLT, 5.9L, 75K. I have had a small
antifreeze leak for quite a while. It was never enough to leave a spot
on the ground but I would occasionally get a whiff when I got out of the truck and would have to top off the reservoir every once and a while. Yesterday there was a small pool on the ground and it used a third of the reservoir in a day. Please forgive the terms I am going to use below as I really don't know what I'm talking about, as usual. I'm having trouble finding the exact location of the leak. It does not
appear to be any hoses. The best I can trace the leak is that it is wet on a seam about three inches BEHIND the seam that the water pump is
mated to (with those six or seven bolts), on the passenger side. In other words there is the mating surfaces to which the water pump is bolted (passenger side); then a few inches behind this is a seam. It appears that the coolant is coming out of this seam; leaking onto the oil pan seam; running back a couple of inches; dripping onto an engine mount; then onto the axle; then to the ground.
Is it possible this leak is actually from the water pump? I don't know
if a pressure test would help me as I was watching it drip but could not trace it any further up than I so eloquently stated above.
Steve
Okay,
After I ran the truck a bit I took the alternator support, air filter, and radiator hose clamp off and looked at the base of the thermostat. Nothing at all appears wet around it. Based on the amount
I lost I would think it would appear a bit wet but not at all. As for the weep hole I can in no way find it. I've been above and below the truck and ran my hand all over the bottom just behind the pully and had
more mirrors under it than are in a fun house. BigAl you were talking about just behind the fan pulley right? The highest area I can find wet
is along that seam I mentioned above. The oil dip stick actually comes
close to this seam as it goes down into the engine. I put some dye in it but don't know what else to try. Could the water pump be leaking out of this seam?
Thanks
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The water pump bolts to and through the timing chain cover. I think your problem is that broken bolt. It needs to be replaced to provide sealing torque to the cover. The pump is probably good but if you have to pay someone to do this job then replace it also. The timing cover if it is not tight to the block will leak because it has 2 water passages. Fixing this isn't all that difficult if you have some basis tools. Need to remove the radiator for working room. Front balancer has to be removed which is the most difficult part of the job. Once the pbalancer is removed the rest of the job consists of nothing more than removing bolts. That missing bolt if it is broken off can be a job to remove.
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johninKY,
Thanks very much for answering. What exactly is a "Front Balancer"? If I get the water pump cover off could I maybe 'easy out' the rest of the broken bolt and just replace that. The radiator shop said I need to replace the seal but if I can get away with just the bolt...
Steve
johninKY wrote:

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It's that round thing at the botom of the engine bolted to the end of the crankshaft that has the pulleys and belts. Really need an impact wrench to remove the bolt and then you need a puller to remove the balancer. I had to replace a leaking timing chain cover on my 66 D200 last summer. A lot older than your truck but the steps are essentially the same.
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johninKY,
If the broken bolt is to the water pump cover then I wouldn't necessarily have to take that off would I? Could I just take the water pump out. Try to tap out the remaining portion of the bolt and button her up with a new bolt. If I understand correctly the seven water pump bolts also help nest the timing chain cover to the block right? Thanks again for answering my posts.
Steve
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Let me first restate my water pump experience is with a 66 old-style 318. There could be major differences with your engine but I doubt it. As for the broken bolt, it most likely sheared where it enters the block or whatever it screws into. You really have to get to where it sheared to remove it. Attempting to drill ot a bolt hidden in a hole is a recipe for an expensive disaster. You can't see where the bit is drilling and it is a certainty it will wander and drill everywhere where you don't want it to drill. You probably could drive the truck as is for a long time. If you loosen the radiator cap after you park it, this will release the pressure and minimize the leakage.
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