Winch suggestions, equalizer hitch.

Need a winch for my 26' enclosed car trailer. Can't decide if one that reverses is better or worse than one that only powers in and has a clutch. Suggestions would be welcome. My open trailer has a cheap winch that has a
clutch and it works fine, but it's easy to run around the car on that trailer. With an enclosed trailer, you need to be in two places at one time to load or unload the car.
On a different topic. What's the best way to set up the equalizer/anti-sway bars? Is there a web page that describes the correct way to do it. This trailer has a lot of tongue load, is that more or less normal?
Thanks,
Al
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Typically a trailer will have 10-15% tounge weight. I don't have any web pages handy but heres what I do.
With trailer unhitched measure the front and rear wheel well clearance of your truck.
Now hitch up and adjust bars so they are fairly parallel to the trailer frame. Remeasure wheel well clearance. The biggest thing is that you want the front to be lower than when unhitched. The closer to the amount of drop at the rear the better.
If you have little drop or the front is higher then the spring bars are not set tight enough. If setting them tighter causes the bars to be way off from parallel to the frame then the hitch ball angle is most likely insufficient. Typically this angle should be around 6 degrees down.
Once adjusted properly the truck and the trailer should be sitting fairly level. If not then the hitch drop/rise is wrong.
Big Al wrote:

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I use an open trailer. Power-out is handy for unloading anything that has no working brakes (hulks, etc). I bought a Superwinch S3500 (power in & out + freespooling) which is enough for any rolling load you can haul in your trailer. I also purchased their cradle. It's a combination carrying handle w/ a removable 2x2" stinger. I fabricated a receiver on the front of my trailer, and can remove the winch for safe keeping or for use directly on the front and rear hitches of my pickup. Summit Racing had the best price. I use a 30' remote control, and I understand they now have wireless remote controls.
The stall current of a winch that size is around 175A, but the normal working current is much less -- haven't measured it. I run dual group 27 batteries, with 1/0 welding cable in the high-current path (including the battery ground leads). The 2-pin polarized connectors at the ends of the supply are rated at 150A -- you should be able to find them at an RV supplier. I also made some jumper cables (also 1/0 welding cable) so I can jump-start anything from the front or rear w/o lifting my hood. A *big* alternator is the last item I have on my list. That should give you some ideas.
Bryan

time
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Bryan,
I have a Superwinch S2500 in the garage. I'll look for a way to mount it. The trailer has a large Honda generator and it has a regular car type battery. I was going to power the winch with that battery because the generator keeps it charged.
Al
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Al.. this might help: http://www.rverscorner.com/info/equalizer.html
IMO, tongue weight is a good thing... less sway that way.... The WDH transfers weight to the front of the truck and helps level the truck/trailer... I have a husky, but there are some good tips in the URL above..
mac
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