1997 Z28 Clutch AND Water Pump problems

Hi all!! Haven't posted on here for a while. Glad to see everything's still happening here! Anyways, It seems my clutch on my 1997 Z28 (350 LT1, stock) is starting to go. BUT, the clutch pedal is
getting 'sticky', like the spring is not as 'springy' as before. The pedal started doing this before the clutch started to slip. I think the clutch is pretty much stock, but it was replaced ( I was told this by the dealer), when I bought the car (In February of 2000), so The clutch is roughly only 4 years old, and has about 75000 KM on it (about 47000 Miles). I mostly do city driving though. So, I'm assuming it must be the clutch plate? Could it be the clutch master cylinder or release cylinder? I have found that only the clutch parts (the kit includes pressure plate, bearing, etc. etc. and whatever else you need to replace the whole thing) is about $530 Canadian (about $400 US) at the local parts store. That is expensive!! Anyone know where you can buy cheap clutches (the cheaper the better) online, or anywhere? Also, is it for SURE the clutch plate, etc. or is it the clutch cylinder? Thanks!!
Also, my water pump is starting to leak after about 2 1/2 years of having a NEW water pump installed by the LOSER GM dealer. I thought they were supposed to last a lot longer, but of course the warranty is only 1 year parts and labour. But, also, I flushed the cooling system, put all new coolant and water, and before that I put that aluminum stop-leak stuff in the cooling system, and it actually STOPPED the leak!! That is great, but I'm also getting the low coolant light come on when I'm doing stop and go driving in the city for about 30 - 45 minutes, but it never comes on during highway driving. There is no coolant leaking, as far as I can see, but I smell coolant, when it gets hot after about 30 minutes or so. Is there something more serious wrong? The engine is not overheating according to the temp. gauge, but the engine is extremely hot as I can feel the heat coming out of the hood, and when I open the hood, it's hotter than normal to the touch. Shold I just replace the water pump again? Oh, BTW, it had a NEW water Pump, NEW Thermostat, and NEW radiator cap, about 2 1/2 years ago. It also had too much water and not enough coolant in it for about 6 months or so, so maybe that wrecked the water pump or something else in the cooling system, maybe the low coolant sensor? Where is the low coolant sensor located anyways?
THANKS in advance for suggestions, and glad to be back.
Chris
97-Z28 - 6-Speed
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Well...its the clutch plate alright, and if its slipping, you will need a new pressure plate, and a possible flywhel resurface. You never replace just the clutch disk, and not the pressure plate at the same time. To do so would be halfassed and not doing teh job as a complete and proper installation. While you are in there, cheap insurance is to replace the throw out bearing as well, or you may well find that in a few months, its raising hell. Also, if you see any seapage around the rear main seal, you replace it at the same time.

Thats a bit high, since you can get the clutch, throw out bearing, and presure plate for under $300 at any Auto Zone in the states.

First, NO ONE can tell you for sure what it is on the internet. No one. We can make educated guesses, and someone will be right. Its a real simple thing really....unless you are adding fluid to the master cyl, your slave is ok, and since the slave is a self adjusting type, you can bet your ass its at the end of its adjustment, and your clutch is shot. Cheap clutches....not cheap. You get what you pay for. A cheap clutch just means you will be doing this again, much sooner than you expect.

Loser? If he was a loser, it would not have made it off the lot. It went 2.5 years... Say thats not bad for such a shitty job...

Umm....if its installed by a GM dealer....used to be that you paid for the part one time, and if it failed again for the time you owned the car, you paid for labor, and the part was free....oh..damn..thats right, that cost $25 more.

You mean it CLOGGED the leak.

So...you filled the overflow tank up right?

Its leaking then...isnt it? You dont smell whats not there...

Probably...but again, no one on the internet can tell you what is wrong for sure with YOUR car.

I would check what the thermostat in your palm states, and check back with us...:)

If its leaking from a weep hole, yes. Its shot...actually, the seal is shot, and you cant fix that.

Well hell....12 years ago I had a NEW car. Its not now. Things wear, things break, and thats why you get to go buy parts for them.... They aint new now.

In the overflow tank...... The one thats low.....

Glad your back too.....but I have been here for many years, and dont remember you..... Many years, meaning, since the 2nd year of inception....

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Hey,
But, I remember you HVAC. I didn't post much, just that I love T/A's and Camaros, like most everyone in here. Anyways, thanks for the advice.
The overflow tank on my car was filled up to the top, and as I mentioned that alum-a-seal or whatever it is stopped the leak from the weep hole on the water pump. I saw it leaking before I put the stuff in, and then after I put the seal in, I looked, and it never leaked again. But, the thing is, I took it to the dealer, everytime there was a major problem, like the water pump, and EVERY time it was always $700. But, luckily, I got the extended warranty so it was only $100. The overflow tank is full, unless there is a leak in it, that I don't know about, but every time I fill it right full, it puts the low coolant light on anyways! (only when the engine has been running in traffic for about 30 minutes.) Funky problem..
As far as the clutch, yeah the master cylinder is full, and I never added anything to it. But the fluid is a little dirty, but I guess that's normal. I think I'll have to hop, skip and jump across the border to get a clutch. I'll let you know how it goes. Should be 'fun' to do, LOL!!!
Did the Plugs on it recently, and it took 5 HOURS to do em, cause I kept dropping the wrench down inside, and it's a bitch to do if you don't have a good hoist or something like that. Plugs don't last!! I put in the best ones 2 years ago (bosch platinum), but the thing was running terrible at startup, but once I replaced them, it was running absolutely perfect.
TTYL.
On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:31:06 -0400, "Carolina Breeze HVAC"

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Hey,
Fixed the clutch. Took me 10 hours to do it though. That thing is SOOOO tight. The dealer who put the clutch in before I bought the car 4years ago (meaning that there was a new clutch in after only 3 years after brand new.). They did a crappy job. The clutch chattered like crazy, even when it was new, right until it died. It got worse just before it totally wore out. Turns out, the pilot bearing was SEIZED!. So, new pilot bearing, and a new Centerforce clutch, and it kicks ass now!! Actually, I got a good deal on the clutch ($100 Canadian!) It was used, but upon inspection, everything looked next to new, so I decided to put it in to see how it worked. WAAYYYY better than the stock clutch. Oh, I had to buy a pilot bearing for $20 Canadian. OH, and also the centerforce came with the flywheel and release bearing too. Awesome! so, total cost was $120 Canadian. Plus 10 hours of hellish work! The dealer who put it in before, broke a few bolts around the flywheel too, as it was next to impossible to take the top bolts off. Put a new seal on the diff. too, as it was leaking a lot. But, now it's harder to get into gear (any gear) from neutral. Maybe that is the new clutch? I hope it's normal, but it doesn't do it all the time.
AND, I found out that the low coolant sensor is in the Radiator, just as I guessed it was. It seems that a lot of people in this group, and even some mechanics said it was in the overflow reservoir. Which, doesn't make sense to me, but hey, I'm only a programmer, I use my brain, I don't go by what everyone just tells me. And, I put a new water pump in. (only a few hours for that one, thank god!) The low coolant light is still coming on when it gets hot (not overheating), so I'll have to do that next.
On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:31:06 -0400, "Carolina Breeze HVAC"

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HEY!! Where are the comments for this thread??
On Mon, 05 Jul 2004 05:04:27 GMT, Chris

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a
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Hey!!
I guess noone likes my commentary.
Oh well!!
On Tue, 6 Jul 2004 20:44:14 -0400, "CBHVAC"

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Hey. Anyone have any info. on the following?:
On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 19:11:30 GMT, Chris

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What do you want comments on? Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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Everything about my post I want comments on. What do you think, etc. etc.
On 14 Jul 2004 23:51:07 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Bigjfig) wrote:

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Used parts are a risk, consider yourself lucky in that regard. I wouldn't do 10 hours of labor depending on used parts where the source was unknown!
Body work might be one thing--you can hopefully see the defects, mechanical is something else! Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z
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Chris wrote:

Dunno what to say 'bout the stop leak gunk that hasn't already been said.
S'far as the clutch, you might consider that there are numerous TSB on the clutch spring. (In addition to what Steve has already said.) I'll also add that if your rear main seal is leaking, you might have greater problems than just a spongy clutch.
    Martin     '01 Formula -    MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,             SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow             Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips     '83 V45 Magna
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Ok,
I see what you mean. But what exactly is a TSB? (Some sort of Service Bulletin?)
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 07:22:47 -0400, GLK9MM

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Chris wrote:

Aye. TSB = Technical Service Bulletin
--
Martin
'01 Formula - MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,
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