383 stroker?

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Hi everyone, I have a chance to purchase a freshly-built 383 stroker engine to replace my 350 small block in a '68 Camaro. I would love the extra power, especially in a car that
looks bone stock, but does anyone have any advice about any drawbacks or problems I might have adapting this to a '68 Camaro? With premium gas at over $2 per gallon, I'm also a little worried about gas mileage--
Terry
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wrote:

If your'e worried about the fuel cost of the larger engine then maybe you should think about changing the tranny out for a 700R4 or a T-56 when you make the switch. The engine will bolt right in.
...Ron -- 68' RS Camaro 88' Formula Bird 00' Mustang GT vert http://www.frontiernet.net/~rscamero
Some are wise and some are otherwise
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I was thinking about going with a manual transmission, after all, that's the time to do it, when the engine is out of the car...tell me more about those trannys you mentioned-- is it better to go with one of those, or a muncie 4 speeed? Thanks for the info-

my
have
gas
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the
I started with an '87 IROC, 305-5speed.
After getting beat by a '91 350 Z28, I upped that IROC to a 400+ hp TPI 383 that was an absolute torque monster. I backed it up with a T-56, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and 373 gears.
On the open road between Houston and Austin, it ticked along at about 1750 RPM's at 65-to-70 mph in sixth gear. In your application, imagine the Muncie 4-speed with two overdrives: 5th +/- 0.7:1; and 6th 0.63:1. I also ran P255 BFG's on the back. Perfect for high-speed strafing runs, and you can actually PASS a gas station!
I could drive from north Houston (Spring) to central Austin (+/- 140 miles) on a little less than a quarter tank, plus the notorious Camaro "top heavy" fuel guage that didn't register below 'full' for about 30 miles.
In a nutshell: do the conversion and go to some deeper gears to help your launches. It is worth the work, and the conversion isn't *that difficult. There is also tons of conversion kits to make it easier.
-- -Donald in Austin
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Thanks for the info, I think I'm going to go ahead and do this conversion. I could rebuild my 350, but you only live once, and this 383 stroker would be a heck of a lot of fun.
Terry

the
383
Centerforce
Muncie
P255
miles)
heavy"
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I was only pushing 9.7:1 compression, but spent a truckload on my heads. I could get real stupid, real quick. That engine is now in my youngest brother's '84 dually Chevy, running around Houston. It'll light up all four with ease.
Granted, bigger is always better, and a big block will *always* develop more power, but they are, obviously, a much larger, heavier package. Well built strokers are torque monsters, with all the benefits of the 350 package.
Trust me when I say you won't be disappointed. Once you go Stroker, you never go back....unless someone has an LT5 laying around.
-Donald in Austin

that's
you
1750
your
difficult.
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I decided to go with the 383 stroker in this Camaro, so I'm buying the engine today. I'll drive it for a while, and either keep it, or if it's just too much power, I should be able to sell it for more than it's worth now with a garden variety 350 in it.

for
TPI
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There's no substitute for cubic inches...

trannys
about
the
ran
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Sensible quoting would be a good place to start though.
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NoOne wrote:

There is no replacement for cubic displacement.
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Or how about "size matters"?

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Terry spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in

Tomato, tomaato. :)
NOI
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*CBHVAC* spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in
<snip>

That's from the original Mad Max movie. :)
NOI
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I just got my Camaro back from the shop with the 383 installed. I think it was a 350 block bored out to a 383. I'm not sure about the rod length. Has a mild cam, aluminum intake, Edelbrock carb. It would be real interesting to go to fuel injection, that might be a good winter project. The engine only has about 50 miles on it, so it has to be broken in a little, it runs smooth but it's still real tight. If anyone has any suggestions about maximizing performance with this setup, let me know- Thanks, Terry

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setup,
383s aren't made by just boring the block, a longer stroke crank is installed. If you aren't changing the internals and it's a pretty mild build all you can really do is make sure there aren't any restrictions on the intake or exhaust side of things, set the timing right, and tune the carb a bit. 383s are good torque motors, just don't expect to rev the thing to seven grand.
-Matt- "..."
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Ya a 383 is a 350 block, cylinders bored to 4.030" with a 3.76" stroke. If the crank wasn't replaced, you don't have a 383. You can have a number of different rod lengths. Ther is no reason a 383 balanced and blueprinted with forged rotating assembly cannot live in the higher rpm range with doubled valve springs.

it
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Crank is an Eagle 3.75 inch Stroke. I've driven this engine for about 200 miles and so far so good. Has plenty of power, so much that it's hard to drive on a wet road-- Terry

think
engine
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with
Sure, spin that mild cam that stops making power around 5500 to 7000. It'll do it for awhile, there's just no reason to do so. It's pointless. More noise, no more power, and excess wear.
-Matt- "..."
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If the cam's mild, it won't rev to 7, period. Doesn't need to, either. Good street V8's will outrun just about anything before they hit 5 grand, and the 383 will do it just that much faster.
-Ken-
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